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Rad valve or vforce3?


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Hey guys,

So I finally got my RMX jetted so good now it really is an arm ripper. It has a boyesen rad valve with fresh reeds, but I was thinking about making the switch to a vforce3 setup. You guys have any experience with them on an RMX?

I remember years ago when I threw one of those on my 97 RM 250, it was like a totally new bike. Just wondering of going from a rad valve to a vforce3 would net anything.

 

Thoughts?

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I never have with RMX. I  have with a RM250 it was my 02 , And on a  cr125. They were all warped. On my bike I bought new reeds and they still had a air gap.  I took them off and put on other products. 1 got factory Reed block and 1 got a rad valve. From my experience with them they are not made very well. I have seen others that had bad dealing with them that they were all warped from the factory. After fighting with no start issues I personally don't care for them. If I see any in the future I will remove them before I do anything else to the bike. Maybe somebody else has had better experience with them.

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I’ve been running the RAD valve forever. IMO the best reed setup out there. 

I did try the V-Forces when I did the YZ carb swap. Same experience as Speer1993. Warped cage. I know some guys manage to get good cages, so I returned, and got another set, two more times. Lol

Before returning for the last time and requesting a refund, I tested them out just riding around in my yard. Noticeably harder to start, (normal cold start routine is two slow kicks, one good kick). It also began to load up at idle requiring air screw to be opened up another 1/2 turn. 

Just some observations... 

While the V-Forces do have more reed area, they are also pre-loaded while closed, which would make them somewhat harder to open. V-Force also needs a gasket between them and the rubber intake boot, and if you look at the OEM boot flange, there’s recessed low spots from the injection mold process that could cause intake leaks. 
 

AAB45616-A38E-4C36-97D4-BE897BFB9F52.jpeg.5c5941265670277fe5987046bdb8a826.jpeg

73EBA197-B46D-42F6-8D55-447DA31EA9AE.jpeg.1d17099e68438fc1aafa950fd8ff0512.jpeg

C7576E8D-783F-4796-B6D8-DF7DD539349C.jpeg.a541e6c22a75a2444b35a17024e3f91c.jpeg

That’s messed up when you can take a picture THROUGH the gap in your new reeds. Ha ha. 
B880FC92-B6FD-4831-9DDA-BE96B8859C02.jpeg.3e282af7932f65e27a674e96c98f4e9f.jpeg

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Sheesh I never thought I'd get that many negative reviews so quickly lol. Like I said, I had one vforce 3 years ago and had a great experience with it. Although the stock reed cage that came out could have been bad to begin with. It seems like people are 50/50 on those things.

I have a brand new vforce 3 and pre cut intake boot for my RMX sitting in my garage, but I think I'll stick with my boyesen rad valve. I just put fresh reeds in it when I overhauled the entire motor this past winter too.

May just toss the vforce and boot on ebay for now.

 

Appreciate the feedback fellas

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The engineering behind the Rad Valve is solid....

I have used them in many machines for decades now... Always positive results in throttle response and torque..!!

V Force is a nice gimmick, but the "engineering" is more advertising based than physics based... to appeal to people on a caveman level: 

"Some good... Then more better"

lol

Velocity and laminar flow is where it's at.... Rad Valve has that covered 100%

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My vote is for the rad valve I have one on each of my RMX's. I really like boyesen products. I haven't tried the V-force setup on an RMX but have experience with a set on a 2003 RM125 and they didn't work out well, they were warped out of the box. This was an old neighbor/friends bike and he thought it looked cool with the little logo that said v force 3 or whatever on his intake. That might be some of the hype??

maybe they have a high end product line and low end line I'm not sure but I really like the aluminum construction of the rad valve. Even boyesen's pedals that work with the stock cage are good reeds I've used those on multiple bikes.

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Great input guys. I guess it seems to be all personal preference. Lots of people have been getting warped cages from Vforce too huh? I ended up keeping my rad valve and returning the vforce. It looked like installing the Vforce would push the carb back towards the airbox a bit as well.

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Hey guys, I finally was able to find a used 93-98 intake boot to position the Keihin PWK 38 more forward away from the rear shock. However, I wasn't paying attention and ordered a stinking 95 RM250 boot, part #:13150-28E01. The part number of the RMX boot would be: 13110-28E00. The internal diameter is still 38mm at the circular portion, but the opening is way different. Should it be used or sent back? In all honesty it looks like it will line up with my Vforce cage just about as well as the stock one did. RMX reed cage is on the right and ebay is on the left.

IMG_20200529_095241.thumb.jpg.53ce2b677ff5fd812bc33901c483c905.jpgIMG_20200529_095714.jpg.6216f5a981a5851ed15e822373b9d479.jpgIMG_20200529_095738.jpg.80d107ef77a7f98e97fce55343f12ba6.jpg

Also, just to add to the conversation, my Vforce cage is slightly warped on one of the pedals allowing the slightest amount (I'm talking barely noticeable) of light through but it is too late for me to return and it absolutely rips for now. If I were to start from stock I would send it on the RAD valve 100% just from a quality of product standpoint. 

Edited by codywood806
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Nope, you got the right one. The RMX boot has a funky flap that goes inside carb on the top. Can’t tell from pict, but that might be the only difference. I mentioned in your SM build that the reed cages, and the opening to them is a bit different. 
 

Here are in indented parts I was talking about earlier. Be sure to put a dab of fuel resistant sealant in each so you don’t get a vacuum leak. ?

5B669428-4B3E-47A4-8ADF-E4110E7BC409.thumb.jpeg.39637546a229a1813217195e7e3d6902.jpeg

Normally the boot seals to the cage on the raised lip, but the way the V-Forces are made, that won’t work...

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2 hours ago, TEGRITY RMX said:

Nope, you got the right one. The RMX boot has a funky flap that goes inside carb on the top. Can’t tell from pict, but that might be the only difference. I mentioned in your SM build that the reed cages, and the opening to them is a bit different. 
 

Here are in indented parts I was talking about earlier. Be sure to put a dab of fuel resistant sealant in each so you don’t get a vacuum leak. ?

5B669428-4B3E-47A4-8ADF-E4110E7BC409.thumb.jpeg.39637546a229a1813217195e7e3d6902.jpeg

Normally the boot seals to the cage on the raised lip, but the way the V-Forces are made, that won’t work...

Thank you for the reply Jeremy. I was pretty sure that is what you were talking about in my SM post but I wasn't 100% sure. I'll be sure to seal 'er up. Time to go hack off the ears and install this bad boy. Thank you for confirming the right part though. Hope y'all are having a killer weekend!

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