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96-97 fork shim stack mod

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After searching for awhile, I've read of two members who have done it. There wasn't any real explanation of which shims to remove. Does anyone know the mod ?

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2 hours ago, nomad221 said:

After searching for awhile, I've read of two members who have done it. There wasn't any real explanation of which shims to remove. Does anyone know the mod ?

 

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Used to think I was a thread killer lol. Thanks TR !

Edited by nomad221
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I did the fork shim stack mod on a XR400 ´97 and its quite easy. You just need an air pressure impact tool (no special tool inside the fork)

Take out the fork leg and turn it upside down. Put the impact wrench on the nut in the bottom (clean first and WD40) and compress the spring at the same time. 

Hand pressure should be enough - or use a strap to tighten it.

Take out the compression stack (simple as that. It is not connected to the damper rod inside..)

Take the compression stack apart, remove the excess shims. According to other threads here: If 12 identical, remove 6. If 7, remove the 2 thickest.

See photos.

Put it all back, be carefull not to overtighten, use locktite. 

Put the stack valve back in the fork bottom (still upside down) and use the impact tool with spring compressed. 

I put the impact tool on 1 (out of 4) - and have no idea about the torque... But it works 

 

IMG_20200103_173940a.jpg

IMG_20200103_173959.jpg

IMG_20200103_174007.jpg

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3 hours ago, CZ47racer said:

What are the benefits?  I have a 1997 model.

Softens the harshness of the forks when riding over rocks and roots.

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On 5/26/2020 at 2:57 PM, Jesper XR DK said:

I did the fork shim stack mod on a XR400 ´97 and its quite easy. You just need an air pressure impact tool (no special tool inside the fork)

Take out the fork leg and turn it upside down. Put the impact wrench on the nut in the bottom (clean first and WD40) and compress the spring at the same time. 

Hand pressure should be enough - or use a strap to tighten it.

Take out the compression stack (simple as that. It is not connected to the damper rod inside..)

Take the compression stack apart, remove the excess shims. According to other threads here: If 12 identical, remove 6. If 7, remove the 2 thickest.

See photos.

Put it all back, be carefull not to overtighten, use locktite. 

Put the stack valve back in the fork bottom (still upside down) and use the impact tool with spring compressed. 

I put the impact tool on 1 (out of 4) - and have no idea about the torque... But it works 

 

IMG_20200103_173940a.jpg

IMG_20200103_173959.jpg

IMG_20200103_174007.jpg

Jesper XR DK - what can you tell me about tightening the nut after I finish removing the spacers?  The Honda shop manual does not provide any guidance.  How tight?  Thanks.

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Ahh.. ehmm... To be honest, I rarely use a momentum tool. I mostly use hand force based on experience (and learning from failures...)

OK, it's an alu thread and steel nut, so be careful. I used Locktite and a wrench with two fingers. I can't be more precise...

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Thanks.  I also found pictures I took as I disassembled, which showed the nut firmly but not tightly fitted.

1 hour ago, Jesper XR DK said:

Ahh.. ehmm... To be honest, I rarely use a momentum tool. I mostly use hand force based on experience (and learning from failures...)

OK, it's an alu thread and steel nut, so be careful. I used Locktite and a wrench with two fingers. I can't be more precise...

 

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