Ok here is a god newbie question I am sure the answer is on the internet but hey that is what this forum is for :thumbsup: I am wanting to purchase some new sprockets for my bike can someone explain the whole process for the number of teeth on a sprocket and what more teeth or less does for you? I am wanting to go with a blue or gold color, and what type would you all recommend? I purchased the bike not to long ago and I am pretty sure that the stock sprockets are still on. They are begining to look a little rounded so figured it was about time for new. Thanks

One more question to add does anyone know what the stock count for teeth is on front and rear sprockets for 2000 yz426f ?

14/49 US and 14/48 Euro

Thanks maybe you can help me out.... What would be a better set up for 80% trail riding or should i just keep it the same for when i replace the sprockets. Pretty sure the chain is not stock but i will replace it too any pointers? I have read that when you change sprockets you should replace the chain and visa viser.


I have a YZ 400 and this setup should be about the same for your 426. I had the stock setup 14/49 and started riding trails and had alot of probs. I went with a 51 on the rear and that helped. But I still needed a little more ability at slow speeds. So I bought a 13 front (cheap). The great thing about this is if you plan on doing some MX or open trail riding the front sprocket can be changed in a matter of minutes so you can slap the 14 back on. I looked for months before buying and settled on a Titax stainless for the rear and the Titax steel on front (Best price). I think the rear was $59.00 and the front was 7 or $8. Went with a DID X-ring chain. $79.00 I think. As far as changing your chain. Unless it is a high cost/quality O-ring or X- ring that you know how long it has been on the bike you should change the chain also. I made the mistake of changing sprockets on my bike and not replacing the chain.( Dealer sent me the wrong chain)and I went on one long rally ride around 200 miles and by the end of the trip my new sprockets were trashed. With the setup I have I have not had to adjust the chain in over 4 months!! Unless you MX alot and are a A or B rider I would definately recomend a stainless or other hardened rear sprocket. As far as more or less teeth. The less teeth you have on the front the lower the gearing.(Trails) It is the opposite for the rear, the more teeth on the rear the lower

the gearing. With the power these bike have very few people are gearing them up, most are gearing them down especially for woods/trails. Just my .02

Flog :thumbsup:

Good ole fellow redneck comes through thanks bro! :thumbsup:

No prob. Glad to help. We slow talkers have to help each other out when we can. I bought all of the items mentioned @ www.rockymountainatv.com. Where in MS are you from? I hail from the metropolis of Cullman AL. Up in the north central part of AL just south of Huntsville. Good luck and if I can help any more let me know.

Flog :thumbsup:

www.motosportoutlet.com has chain and sprocket sets for good prices all brands.

say you are riding a tight track and 2nd gear is a little highgeared for most of the corners (rpms low almost bogging) get a larger sprocket say 1 or 2 teeth and the next time you ride the same corners you can probably stay in 2nd gear and the rpms will be higher at a slower speed.I put on a bigger sprocket for tight supercross tracks, but if I go trail riding Ill put my 48 tooth back on so when I am in 4th gear I dont rev out the motor.

Thanks for the insite guys.. Flogger I'm from Brandon MS more or less central MS. Been out of the riding scene for a while and just got back in with this bike, can't believe I ever stopped. Its been a while since i last road it's hard to believe the difference in the power of the bikes nowadays. All these mods you guys are trying on your bikes for more power is crazy it's hard to handle mine stock, hell i am trying to add weight to mine to slow it down :thumbsup:. I ride on an old enduro track around Pickens MS that used to be raced around 1997 or so. If i am not mistaken they held a lot of races there back in the day and even one national championship.. A friend of mine's parents own some land that about 5 miles of the old track is on. we cleaned it back up and ride it now. So let me get this straight, one tooth smaller (down from stock) on the front spocket and a couple of teeth higher in the back will give me more control wthout as much clutch in the tight spaces and when i say tight these trails are tight and hilly. :awww: This would put me at 13 on front and 50-52 on the back.

Exactly. You will lose some top end by doing this but how many times in the trails are you thinking I wish I had more top end. It makes the bikes more luggable, and you are able to ride slower without stalling the bike. And as I said earlier if you are riding 80% trails the 51 would be a good choice for the rear. Then buy you a 13 and a 14 front. (They offer a 12 also for the 426 but do not for the 400 or I would have a 12 also.) Because they are very cheap and quick to change. Try the 13 first and see what you think. then if it seems like it geared to low for you in 5 minutes you can have the 14 back on and have more of your top end back.

Your story sounds alot like mine. I had been off MX bikes for over 15 yrs. and withing the last year have started riding again. We ride every Sunday somewhere in the mountains of Central mexico. I tried a couple of MX events while I was in the US and learned my body needed much more conditioning to be competitive. I am now running the National enduro circuit here in Mex. We race once a month and travel all over the country. I placed 4th my last race out of 30 riders so I feel I am getting better. This racing suits me much better until I can get back into top condition. It gives you a chance to ride hard but not at a breakneck pace. They are usually 4 or 5 hr races so you still have to be in pretty good shape and hydration is a must. Let me know if I can help you any more, with you riding trails you may start having some temp problems. If you do let me know I have some changes that I made to my bike that have helped in this area also.


I ended up with the same gearing Flogger suggested on my 426, big difference. One other thing (I am surprised it has taken this long to invade this thread) is a Z-Start clutch. What a difference! I rode for the first time this week with my auto clutch and talk about making trail riding simple! Change your gearing and start saving your pennies for a Z-Start, you won't regret it.

Good Luck!


I ended up with the same gearing Flogger suggested on my 426, big difference. One other thing (I am surprised it has taken this long to invade this thread) is a Z-Start clutch. What a difference! I rode for the first time this week with my auto clutch and talk about making trail riding simple! Change your gearing and start saving your pennies for a Z-Start, you won't regret it.

Good Luck!



Yes z-start will be a definate consideration, nothing like stalling between two hills with your back tire in the ditch and your front tire head high :awww:, but saving the pennies is the holdback, hell plus i can't stop buying stuff to make the bike look better long enough to put something on i can't see :lol: like any of that makes me a better rider but the bike looks great, better than my trail riding... I guess this will change the thread flogger but its a good point :thumbsup:, as far as a slow ride (for now i'm getting faster :lol:) and overheating, i have read that i can increase the cap pressure on my radiator cap, what would be some other things to do to prevent this..... Anybody have any suggestions?

Ok the questions keep coming.. i forgot to ask if i go with a 13 tooth front and a 51 tooth back sprocket what would be the best chain and link number that i would need? and will i need to remove or add any links?

Cap pressure is one thing I have not changed. But after reading last months MX magazine it will be the next thing I change. It basically said that all pros were using a 1.8 cap. The stock is a 1.1. They suggest we mere mortals use a 1.6 cap. The only problem is I do not know how to translate this into a part number. If I do I will post it and if you do please do the same. I did not realize this but the higher the pressure of a radiator system the higher the boiling temp. In other words water will not boil at 212 under pressure. The drawback or concern to upping your pressure is that you must ensure that your system has good hoses and can take the increase. This is why they say to use a 1.6 vs a 1.8. The other measures I have taken is to install a WR puke tank to catch the overflow. Order a same year puke tank along with the cap, gasket, two hoses and all clips and hardware on the microfisch. This will set you back around $50 or so if you get a small dealer discount. Then you will need a 1/2 inch longer bolt that is under your left # plate. and a roll of plumbers tape or ladderstrap. (Wal-mart) If you decide to do this let me know and I will give you more info. Then I wrapped the header with header tape (like the old hotrodders use) If you will make a header guard as described in Motomans website it will make the tape last longer if you fall to the right side. Then I run engine ice in the Rad. These 3 things helped me tremendously. The puke tank will catch the overflow in the tight stuff and will send it back to the rad when you get in more open trails. The header tape keeps some of the radiated heat from the bottom of the rad. and the engine ice reduces operating temp. Mine still gets hot on occasion but never down and out on the trail. As far as the chain use the stock length chain (??) 110 for my 400 best I remember. And you should not have to cut it. If you do need to cut it make sure you leave enough (or set up with)for your 14t front. My setup accomodates both sprockets without any prob. I would highly recomend the DID x-ring. It is the best DID sells with a clip type master link. And it is gold in color also. No problem with more question it's bs with you or work. Gone for the weekend. :thumbsup:


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