Jump to content

correct order for doing performance mods

Recommended Posts

I'm a new rider so apologies if this is a dumb question.....

For my CRF250L it appears the popular performance "combo" is the mod the air box, add a new muffler, and install the EJK controller.

Is there an order in which these mods should be performed?  

I'm looking to slowly mod my bike and didn't know if I could do just one of these at a time (in any order) or if they needed to be done all at once.

 

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would gear it down first and add a SpeedoDRD correction module.

Of the mods you listed, I would do the EJK first. These bikes are pretty lean from the factory. Once you have that, add a megabomb header and FMF quiet core muffler, add the K&N filter and do the 2” airbox mod. Don’t add any air holes to the sides of the airbox if you are going to do any water crossing. Be sure to change the EJK settings to match the mods to richen the mixture back up after you add better airflow. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks RZ, that is exactly the info I was needing to know.

A regear is already in the works.....going to a Sunstar 42 tooth in the rear...that sprocket seems to be out of stock everywhere so I'm just waiting for someone to have it.  I already have the speedo module from 12 o'clock labs and will install same time as sprocket.

thanks again for the info.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Better tires and the clutch mod to remove the judder spring...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have and recommend IRC TR8 Battle Rally’s! 

Mostly because of the cool name, but also because they are a fantastic off-road tire with good on-road behavior and durability. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm at about 1000 on my new 250L. Don't overlook cheap and easy mods before you dump a ton of money into a bike you haven't reached a skill level to challenge. The judder spring mod can easily be done at your break-in oil change and is free...you may not need to even replace the gasket. Play with your sag before dumping a grand on a new shock. My own philosophy is to make the bike demand an upgrade by letting me down in the real world. So far it really hasn't, because I'm a noob, other than the suspension limitations have now been reached. Front spring, rear pre-load. Do new riders on a dual-sport really need competitive race level upgrades? I spent my hole-burnin' money on a new Arai. After the rocks pelting me in the face I said a new helmet is a worthy upgrade!

PS. I also added the upgrade of a rotopax. It comes in handy on the trails.

Edited by stilllifewithredrob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, stilllifewithredrob said:

The judder spring mod can easily be done at your break-in oil change and is free...

Hold your horses there. The judder spring mod isn't free.

When you take out the judder spring you have to replace it with a full size friction disc at the very least. Or a new set of full frictions.

Most are replacing with the EBC CK1313 set for the CBR250R. Is around $60-70.

Then you can upgrade to stiffer springs to help lock up even more. Using CBR300R Barnett Clutch Spring Kit 501-45-05050.

Then some guys are having issues with the stock bolt so they are upgrading to 2003 CRF450R clutch Bolts. Honda# 90022-MM5-000B BOLT-WASHER(6X25).

If you have low miles and the stock frictions look good and want to go cheap, you can get one stock friction and us it. Honda# 22201-KYJ-902. $12 or so, if you can find it with free shipping.

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1
  • Angry 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right on, Carl, thanks for the info! I hadn't heard about the bolts...are you talking about the spring bolts? Been a while since I was in a clutch, so I am not sure. The full EBC with Barnett springs has been in my shopping cart a few weeks now, but I haven't done the upgrade, yet...not necessary, for my application, lol! I thought I'd read that you could just adjust the cable and not use a thicker friction plate....and everything one reads on the internet is true, so what gives? Seriously, though, thanks for the correction. Not free.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 minutes ago, stilllifewithredrob said:

Right on, Carl, thanks for the info! I hadn't heard about the bolts...are you talking about the spring bolts? Been a while since I was in a clutch, so I am not sure. The full EBC with Barnett springs has been in my shopping cart a few weeks now, but I haven't done the upgrade, yet...not necessary, for my application, lol! I thought I'd read that you could just adjust the cable and not use a thicker friction plate....and everything one reads on the internet is true, so what gives? Seriously, though, thanks for the correction. Not free.

Yep, these bolts.

image.thumb.png.ddadb6464702dc1949cd709f21e49ff9.png

A few complained they thought the bolts were soft and or broke some.

I used the originals without any issues. I'll probably get a set next time I do the clutch though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe off-topic, but it is a mod, and it is immediately relevant: I want to add skid plate and radiator guard after my last trail ride really pelted the underside of the bike. I already had a hankering for the flatlander guards. I appreciate how the skid plate protects the sides of the case, too. But the radiator guard they offer only protects the front of the radiator. I noticed I got a smooshed pea-size section of the rider-side of the radiator. Why don't they try to protect that side, too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

might seriously do a bit of research on the suggested K&N filter if you ride in dusty conditions.  They have "issues" with fine dust.

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎8‎/‎24‎/‎2020 at 11:39 PM, stilllifewithredrob said:

Maybe off-topic, but it is a mod, and it is immediately relevant: I want to add skid plate and radiator guard after my last trail ride really pelted the underside of the bike. I already had a hankering for the flatlander guards. I appreciate how the skid plate protects the sides of the case, too. But the radiator guard they offer only protects the front of the radiator. I noticed I got a smooshed pea-size section of the rider-side of the radiator. Why don't they try to protect that side, too?

the flatlands radiator guard does have side protection but almost none of them (that I've seen) have rear protection, that would require relocating the radiator fan. I'd take a guess that you got something between the fan and the radiator, not much helps with that. of course, if it's something YOU personally experience, it would be fairly trivial to slide some expanded wire mesh (like, chicken wire but smaller holes from the garden section at lowes) between the fan and the RAD. that would probably give you at least a little better than nothing on the back side.

with the flatlands radiator guard, keep in mind you'll need to modify it if you ever get a larger tank. not hard, just like 1/4"-1/2" slice out of the upper mounting bracket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right on! Thanks, Crap, I appreciate the info. I used a toothpick to straighten the smooshed radiator fins, as per the manual's description in the maintenance section. The bike's radiator fan actually only covers a small portion of a small radiator, and I imagine the rock must have skipped up and  ricocheted off my leg or my boot and hit the radiator. The flatlander guard does have a wide side bracket, but yeah, they all seem to leave the backside exposed. Must be deemed a statistical fluke to have a rock ricochet off the boot...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i would guess that they assume any time something is moving fast enough from the rear to cause any significant damage, something MUCH worse than a rock coming at the radiator has happened.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×
×
  • Create New...