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After speaking with a few friends that have years of experience I am considering a Rekluse. Can anyone help me understand the advantages of the CX vs X versions? Is it worth the $$ to go with the CX? 

Thanks

Mike

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Do other mods and spend the money on other upgrades. The xtrainer is supper easy to ride and does not need a Rekluse. learn to use proper clutch control, you will be a better rider. The rekluse limits your riding style especially with the xtrainer. Using the low end riding a gear higher takes advantage of the strengths of that motor. Using the clutch gives you more control of the power.

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4 minutes ago, Eric72 said:

Do other mods and spend the money on other upgrades. The xtrainer is supper easy to ride and does not need a Rekluse. learn to use proper clutch control, you will be a better rider. The rekluse limits your riding style especially with the xtrainer. Using the low end riding a gear higher takes advantage of the strengths of that motor. Using the clutch gives you more control of the power.

Thanks for the input. I agree which is why I was surprised to here my buddies recommend the Rekluse. Their argument is the clutch still works as normal but it helps keep you out trouble which makes sense. 

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55 minutes ago, Kendall993 said:

Thanks for the input. I agree which is why I was surprised to here my buddies recommend the Rekluse. Their argument is the clutch still works as normal but it helps keep you out trouble which makes sense. 

The clutch does work exactly as normal operations. It does not affect any of the performance of the bike in any manner.  It's simply an anti-stall device. You retain full clutch feel and performance with the CX and you have the ability to fine tune in a variety of ways for less slip or no slip at all. Lots of setup advice out there, but a good explanation here from Slavens 

I ran the CX in my 390rr for several months and it performed flawlessly.  It was especially nice for the 5 riding days in Moab with constant step ups and ledges and the ability to truly focus on the obstacles and not any thought of stalling.  

My buddy with the X trainer that I ride frequently has the CX and you'd never know it was in there unless someone told you, or you made a mistake and it prevented you from stalling. 

There's always some who see it as a "crutch", but most who have negative thoughts on them have never run one or tried an older version, or one that was incorrectly setup.

They are run by experts all the way to novice. 

It's 100% an individual decision and all depends on what you are looking for in terms of it's advantages.  

PM me if you are interested in some more details with its performance on the X trainer as I installed the CX and set it up for my buddy and have installed 4 CX's now for various friends. 

 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Eric72 said:

Do other mods and spend the money on other upgrades. The xtrainer is supper easy to ride and does not need a Rekluse. learn to use proper clutch control, you will be a better rider. The rekluse limits your riding style especially with the xtrainer. Using the low end riding a gear higher takes advantage of the strengths of that motor. Using the clutch gives you more control of the power.

Everything mentioned here can be done the same while running a rekluse.  It doesn’t prevent you from learning clutch techniques unless you choose not to use the lever.  I still hop logs, do pivot turns, hill climbs and all that stuff (using the lever) just like I did with manual bikes. I also modulate power with the lever just the same. 
 

As for the OP go with the CX over the standard Radius.  The billet parts are really well made, pass oil better and everything stays a bit cooler.  I have both the CX and Core 3.  Currently running the Core 3.  The older style Beta clutches (17’ and earlier) spin up really fast and the Core 3 in it grabs really hard in stock trim.  On the 18’ and up I’d go with the CX. 

Edited by NW_drZ
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Wanted to clarify, I ran the Radius X on the 390, not the CX. It worked flawlessly.  

As mentioned, the CX comes with the clutch hub, pressure plate and cover from Rekluse.  Nicely made from Rekluse. 

Also, I believe Rekluse still offers a 30 day money back guarantee. 

 

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the last time I pulled the clutch lever of a buddy's 300rr w/ a rekluse, his lever felt 2x more difficult to pull in than mine. 

is this indeed the case,

or is the new CX , radius rekluse lever supposed to be as easy as the stock clutch pull? 

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9 hours ago, firffighter said:

The clutch does work exactly as normal operations. It does not affect any of the performance of the bike in any manner.  It's simply an anti-stall device. You retain full clutch feel and performance with the CX and you have the ability to fine tune in a variety of ways for less slip or no slip at all. Lots of setup advice out there, but a good explanation here from Slavens 

I ran the CX in my 390rr for several months and it performed flawlessly.  It was especially nice for the 5 riding days in Moab with constant step ups and ledges and the ability to truly focus on the obstacles and not any thought of stalling.  

My buddy with the X trainer that I ride frequently has the CX and you'd never know it was in there unless someone told you, or you made a mistake and it prevented you from stalling. 

There's always some who see it as a "crutch", but most who have negative thoughts on them have never run one or tried an older version, or one that was incorrectly setup.

They are run by experts all the way to novice. 

It's 100% an individual decision and all depends on what you are looking for in terms of it's advantages.  

PM me if you are interested in some more details with its performance on the X trainer as I installed the CX and set it up for my buddy and have installed 4 CX's now for various friends. 

 

The clutch does work exactly as normal operations. It does not affect any of the performance of the bike in any manner. 

Yeah? Upshift and try and feather the clutch on a loose terrain hill.  It only works 'the same' if you stay 100% above the built-in slip rpm range.

 

 

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21 minutes ago, KRAYNIAL said:

Yeah? Upshift and try and feather the clutch on a loose terrain hill.  It only works 'the same' if you stay 100% above the built-in slip rpm range

There is no "built in slip rpm range". Please show us where you are getting that from? Have you personally run a Radius X or CX? 

You have the ability to tune where Rekluse engagement point and how it engages, if that's what you are trying to say. The above video from Slavens is very detailed on that process. 

You can 100% feather the clutch on steep loose hillclimbs with the Rekluse Radius X. 

 

 

 

 

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34 minutes ago, firffighter said:

There is no "built in slip rpm range". Please show us where you are getting that from? Have you personally run a Radius X or CX? 

You have the ability to tune where Rekluse engagement point and how it engages, if that's what you are trying to say. The above video from Slavens is very detailed on that process. 

You can 100% feather the clutch on steep loose hillclimbs with the Rekluse Radius X. 

 

 

 

 

This... In my experience the CX grabs / hooks up quicker than the OEM manual clutch.  There literally is almost no slip.  It utilizes more friction plates than the OEM setup.  If you still use the lever like you should (loose hill climbs) it works just like a manual. 

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1 hour ago, firffighter said:

Wanted to clarify, I ran the Radius X on the 390, not the CX. It worked flawlessly.  

As mentioned, the CX comes with the clutch hub, pressure plate and cover from Rekluse.  Nicely made from Rekluse. 

Also, I believe Rekluse still offers a 30 day money back guarantee. 

 

Thanks for the info. Based on your experience do you think the extra $$ for the CX is worth it? 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jeddclampette said:

the last time I pulled the clutch lever of a buddy's 300rr w/ a rekluse, his lever felt 2x more difficult to pull in than mine. 

is this indeed the case,

or is the new CX , radius rekluse lever supposed to be as easy as the stock clutch pull? 

I’ve had all 3 in my 250rr. The CX is stock in pull.  As a matter of fact it grabs so hard I bet you could easily mix in half of the lighter clutch plate springs if you wanted and have a lever that’s lighter than stock.  The Core is maybe 5% heavier than stock as it uses 3 slightly stiffer clutch plate springs than the CX.  However with the ARC clutch lever and a well bleed clutch it feels the same or slightly lighter to me now than the OEM clutch with the OEM lever.

A 2x harder pull sounds like either a setup issue or setup preference (heavy clutch plate springs).

Edited by NW_drZ
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11 minutes ago, Kendall993 said:

Thanks for the info. Based on your experience do you think the extra $$ for the CX is worth it? 

I would get the cx. It's been a while, but I think with the x you retain your stock clutch plates. so you remove some of the plate to make room the the x ring. with the cx you get new clutch hub and thinner rekluse plates so you keep the same number of plates as stock while adding the x ring. thus the same or better grabbing power with the cx.

Edited by randysoo
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31 minutes ago, Kendall993 said:

Thanks for the info. Based on your experience do you think the extra $$ for the CX is worth it? 

My opinion with 3 bikes using a radius X, NO. 

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21 minutes ago, randysoo said:

I would get the cx. It's been a while, but I think with the x you retain your stock clutch plates. so you remove some of the plate to make room the the x ring. with the cx you get new clutch hub and thinner rekluse plates so you keep the same number of plates as stock while adding the x ring. thus the same or better grabbing power with the cx.

radius x comes with all new frictions, steels, and the exp disc. Also comes with the manual adjust slave, where free play gain is adjusted. I saw no need/benefit for a larger clutch cover, or replacement basket when the stocker is very stout. 

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1 minute ago, redhurricane said:

radius x comes with all new frictions, steels, and the exp disc. Also comes with the manual adjust slave, where free play gain is adjusted. I saw no need/benefit for a larger clutch cover, or replacement basket when the stocker is very stout. 

I was just getting ready to reply, but Red is correct.  The only difference is you get the clutch cover, pressure plate, and hub with the CX, everything else is identical between the 2. 

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Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, firffighter said:

I was just getting ready to reply, but Red is correct.  The only difference is you get the clutch cover, pressure plate, and hub with the CX, everything else is identical between the 2. 

I remember when looking at the OEM pressure plate and Rekluse PP together, the Rekluse to me looked like it would pass oil better and allow for more heat release from that given area.  I may be talking out of my ass here haha, its just what first came to mind when looking at them.  The OEM has a solid design with zero cut outs / passages.  That said i have only tried a Radius X in a cable actuated bike, not a hydro clutched bike.  The only other difference i noticed between the two is that the CX calls for 6 medium clutch plate springs and the standard X has 6 heavy.  So the CX based on their recommendation will have a lighter clutch pull than the standard X.  Why its comes this way im not sure.  

Edited by NW_drZ
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11 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

I remember when looking at the OEM pressure plate and Rekluse PP together, the Rekluse to me looked like it would pass oil better and allow for more heat release from that given area.  I may be talking out of my ass here haha, its just what first came to mind when looking at them.  The OEM has a solid design with zero cut outs / passages.  That said i have only tried a Radius X in a cable actuated bike, not a hydro clutched bike.  The only other differenced i noticed between the two is that the CX calls for 6 medium clutch plate springs and the standard X has 6 heavy.  So the CX based on their recommendation will have a lighter clutch pull than the standard X.  Why its comes this way im not sure.  

The radius x does come with heavier springs, but you can mix 3/3 with oem springs if the pull is undesirable and still not have slippage. I'v noticed a minimal increase in clutch pull feel, but really a non issue for me. If you had really weak hands, or lingering damage/pain there are ways around it. You may also find that you fan the clutch less and let the auto clutch do the job it was designed to do (fan when needed). 

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