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CR 125 Motor Mount Bolt Wont Budge!!!

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Hello everyone, this will be my first post here on TT - I hope I’m doing it right 😜

I am currently working on a 2003 CR125R. I’m trying to get the engine out for a rebuild but the lower engine mount bolt at the bottom of the engine will not budge. I haven’t been able to hammer it out and I cannot turn the bolt either. I have put a pretty long breaker bar on the head of the bolt to see if I can spin it but at that point so much force was being applied I feared I would break or round the head - then I would really be screwed... no pun intended. I have tried multiple electric impact drivers, battery and cord powered.

I’ve attempted to use multiple penetrant lubricants but for such a long bolt it’s almost a joke, and I’ve used heat from a heat gun which was also a no-go. I would use my torch but that just wants to burn the gasket between the cases. My first thought is that the bolt has rust welded to the cases based on all the corrosion I’ve seen with all the other fasteners on the bike.

After a little more inspection I noticed the right (clutch side) case is “pushed in” with lack of a better term compared to the left case. There is also a very small spot where some aluminum chipped or broke off.  This very likely could mean nothing, but a part of me wonders if somehow the bolt bent as a result of a hard impact or something, but I would assume worse damage would have taken place in the surrounding areas if this was the situation. The cases align fine and dandy everywhere else from what I can tell. I’ll attach a few images. I should also mention I have tried hammering on the bolt with and without all the other engine mounts in place, identical results. Bolt still stuck.

Do you guys have any ideas or anything I should try? Any feedback or tips would be appreciated!

 - AKMoto

549C69F6-1C6E-4918-9F1A-013E2119CF8C.jpeg

9B5DFBC5-1C62-4B0A-9CA8-C04C67039ABB.jpeg

1AE959B1-C098-49D2-A823-6A3E512F20FF.jpeg

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Heat the case, apply penetrant oil to allow the case when cooling to pull the penetrant into the case and around the bolt. Then I would hit it with a punch or air hammer to shock it. 

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Is there a nut on the other side of the bolt or is it threaded into the frame 

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Can you get ahold of the old-fashioned original Liquid Wrench along with a little tapping on the bolt as you apply the penetrant?  I have an old can, and the difference in effectiveness to me is astounding.  Dunno what's in there that you can no longer buy, but it's different from that available now!

From one image bolt head almost looks kind of welded into place!  Did some old boy use red thread locker or JB Weld on it when he installed it?

Let us know your progress.  Best!

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Gotta get it spinning first to break the rust, use a 1/2 air impact then once spinning have someone drive it out from the other side while you turn it with a ratchet. Other suggestions above should work as well.

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5 hours ago, AKMoto_ said:

Hello everyone, this will be my first post here on TT - I hope I’m doing it right 😜

I am currently working on a 2003 CR125R. I’m trying to get the engine out for a rebuild but the lower engine mount bolt at the bottom of the engine will not budge. I haven’t been able to hammer it out and I cannot turn the bolt either. I have put a pretty long breaker bar on the head of the bolt to see if I can spin it but at that point so much force was being applied I feared I would break or round the head - then I would really be screwed... no pun intended. I have tried multiple electric impact drivers, battery and cord powered.

I’ve attempted to use multiple penetrant lubricants but for such a long bolt it’s almost a joke, and I’ve used heat from a heat gun which was also a no-go. I would use my torch but that just wants to burn the gasket between the cases. My first thought is that the bolt has rust welded to the cases based on all the corrosion I’ve seen with all the other fasteners on the bike.

After a little more inspection I noticed the right (clutch side) case is “pushed in” with lack of a better term compared to the left case. There is also a very small spot where some aluminum chipped or broke off.  This very likely could mean nothing, but a part of me wonders if somehow the bolt bent as a result of a hard impact or something, but I would assume worse damage would have taken place in the surrounding areas if this was the situation. The cases align fine and dandy everywhere else from what I can tell. I’ll attach a few images. I should also mention I have tried hammering on the bolt with and without all the other engine mounts in place, identical results. Bolt still stuck.

Do you guys have any ideas or anything I should try? Any feedback or tips would be appreciated!

 - AKMoto

549C69F6-1C6E-4918-9F1A-013E2119CF8C.jpeg

9B5DFBC5-1C62-4B0A-9CA8-C04C67039ABB.jpeg

1AE959B1-C098-49D2-A823-6A3E512F20FF.jpeg

PB-Blaster...image.png.6ee8ccd6a02450e6a1ac93a04590d8c8.png

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1 hour ago, S.O.A.N.Z said:

Is there a nut on the other side of the bolt or is it threaded into the frame 

There was a nut that I was able to remove. It’s not threaded in anywhere, but it goes all the way through both cases and the frame tabs.

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1 hour ago, BSAVictor said:

Can you get ahold of the old-fashioned original Liquid Wrench along with a little tapping on the bolt as you apply the penetrant?  I have an old can, and the difference in effectiveness to me is astounding.  Dunno what's in there that you can no longer buy, but it's different from that available now!

From one image bolt head almost looks kind of welded into place!  Did some old boy use red thread locker or JB Weld on it when he installed it?

Let us know your progress.  Best!

Not sure if you are looking at the correct bolt or not but I have the nut off, I just need to push the bolt out now somehow. It’s currently seized, but I’ll keep y’all updated! 

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40 minutes ago, AKMoto_ said:

Not sure if you are looking at the correct bolt or not but I have the nut off, I just need to push the bolt out now somehow. It’s currently seized, but I’ll keep y’all updated! 

Yes I saw that, but I've heard tell where people glue or weld bolts themselves into place---believe it or not!  Also, 'wonder if bolt was already bent and then malleted into place there?

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15 minutes ago, Mr. Hankey said:

Did you just buy this bike , out of Bastrop?

Not my bike, just wrenching on it.

30 minutes ago, BSAVictor said:

Yes I saw that, but I've heard tell where people glue or weld bolts themselves into place---believe it or not!  Also, 'wonder if bolt was already bent and then malleted into place there?

It’s possible, can’t say if this is the case or not yet. Hope to find out soon if I can get the sucker out!

 

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2 hours ago, Diverdown said:

First try aluminum/brass object, whale with 2 lb + hammer.

I try oak block and/or thick diameter oak dowel [one at a time used between hammer or (rubber?) mallet and object you desire to free] before escalating to aluminum/copper/brass(?).

Edited by BSAVictor

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All I wanna add is when you put it back together slather antiseize on the bolts. 

If that bolt is that tough to get out I really hope you dont have to replace the swing arm bearings. 

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Update: Ok so I threw a pretty large breaker bar on the bolt and it turns now. Still haven’t been able to hammer it out, I guess I just need to somehow wack it even harder 🤷‍♂️ Unfortunately I do not have access to an air hammer or air impact at the moment, but I should be able to make this work. Will update if and/or when I can get it out! 

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