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Power valve governor

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So I pulled the pv governor out the 2000 kx 250 and the ball bearings were missing so I ordered some but they where to big, i ordered a second hand governor of flee bay a 99 when it came i took it apart to check the condition, roller bearings are shot luckly my old 1 s are good now the thing is my old governor had 2 springs the flee bay 1 has 1.

I put it all together with the 2 and it is super I cant move the spring by squeeze g at all,  I cant see ball bearings spinning opening it.

Up to 99 all 1 spring

00, 01, 02 and I think 03 all 2 springs then back to 1 in 2004

So 2 springs or not 2 springs that is the question😁

 

Edited by mark khan

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2 minutes ago, SS109 said:

Use what is spec'ed for your bike. So, two springs. Trust me, those balls will move when the rpm's get up there.

👍will do cheers I have been reading that the tighter the spring the bigger hit you get

Edited by mark khan

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3 minutes ago, mark khan said:

👍will do cheers I have been reading that the tighter the spring the bigger hit you get

Yup. If you like the hit then the two springs is what you want. If I was building a KX250 woods weapon I would personally pick a lighter spring as the softer hit is better for traction.

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7 minutes ago, SS109 said:

Yup. If you like the hit then the two springs is what you want. If I was building a KX250 woods weapon I would personally pick a lighter spring as the softer hit is better for traction.

Bigger the hit the better for now 😁

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2 minutes ago, Jeekinz said:

What is the number on your engine cases next to the trans oil fill cap?

I was wondering if it had right engine in as well with it having a 94 cylinder, Kawasaki said its 99, 00, 01 there not sure exactly 

20200703_113158.jpg

Edited by mark khan

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So the bearings easily pushed the rod even with 2 springs, not managed to test properly yet as snapped inner clutch hub trying to remove it with a crappy amazon clutch tool fitted today tho started it and power valve moved in and out with revs easily.

 

Thanks for all the help guys and il let you know what it's like tommoro, can't wait.

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So now back to grind of jetting again😠 it ran a lot better today just still a bit spluttery at the top the power valve is kicking in but still dosnt like the full throttle I went back to the 160 main and 3rd clip I wasnt happy with the middle range so went 2nd clip it was a lot better thinking maybe try 1st clip, it was very wet today so really hard to feel the power valve think it was just spinning the rear every time it hit it the engine note sounded like it was you could hear the difference 

 

If its sputtering at 3/4 throttle to full is that to big a main or to small?

Edited by mark khan

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7 hours ago, mark khan said:

So now back to grind of jetting again😠 it ran a lot better today just still a bit spluttery at the top the power valve is kicking in but still dosnt like the full throttle I went back to the 160 main and 3rd clip I wasnt happy with the middle range so went 2nd clip it was a lot better thinking maybe try 1st clip, it was very wet today so really hard to feel the power valve think it was just spinning the rear every time it hit it the engine note sounded like it was you could hear the difference 

 

If its sputtering at 3/4 throttle to full is that to big a main or to small?

Sputtering rich, bog then power hit lean.

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10 hours ago, tribalbc said:

Sputtering rich, bog then power hit lean.

👍

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Finally getting some where bikes a beast now got a 150 main in and clip 1 seems to be right, what you guys think to the plug?20200712_150201.thumb.jpg.6ddd427bfa34c209395b22b9b9c72c2f.jpg

20200712_150212.jpg

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Honestly, I can't tell much by that plug. The end normally will tell you if your heat range is good and if there is detonation but not jetting. If you look way down inside on the porcelain insulator it should be a nice mocha brown color around it's base. Did you do a proper plug chop or did you just run it and pull it out?

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I jetted the bike to those specs ran it a while then changed the plug ran it for half hour then pulled it, I think I need to do 1 full geared run then pull it dont I? The old pug was very wet and black

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I just dont know if I'm perfect o  the jetting really it was borping with the 155 and pulled all way through the top revs with the 150 so now I'm just unsure if to get 152 and a 148 or just leave it,

The bike is so much different now the pv works and jettings good, wind it off then on in 5th straight on the back wheel 🥳🤪

Edited by mark khan

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From the oil on the first 2 threads and the base coloration it looks like your main is good. But your plug looks a little lean. Probably a half clip on the needle would be perfect. You can find a shim to do the half clip.

Best way to jet your bike is to keep going richer until you get a rich stutter than go one step back.

Running a little rich will make the bike torquer and smoother. Leaner better throttle response but a bit hollow power. For woods riding I definitely like to jet a bit rich.

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11 hours ago, tribalbc said:

From the oil on the first 2 threads and the base coloration it looks like your main is good. But your plug looks a little lean. Probably a half clip on the needle would be perfect. You can find a shim to do the half clip.

Best way to jet your bike is to keep going richer until you get a rich stutter than go one step back.

Running a little rich will make the bike torquer and smoother. Leaner better throttle response but a bit hollow power. For woods riding I definitely like to jet a bit rich.

Hi thanks for that so a shim does it just go where the needle goes in the throttle valve then you put the needle on top of the shim so it will then take it to 1.5 from top?

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1 hour ago, mark khan said:

Hi thanks for that so a shim does it just go where the needle goes in the throttle valve then you put the needle on top of the shim so it will then take it to 1.5 from top?

Yes. However, they do make needles that are a half step leaner or richer depending on what you need.

 

17 hours ago, mark khan said:

I jetted the bike to those specs ran it a while then changed the plug ran it for half hour then pulled it, I think I need to do 1 full geared run then pull it dont I? The old pug was very wet and black

Yes. A proper plug chop will be a lot more accurate. Of course, you can tell a lot by the seat of your pants but I like seeing the proper color on the insulator first and then adjust for the "feel" I'm after.

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1 hour ago, mark khan said:

Hi thanks for that so a shim does it just go where the needle goes in the throttle valve then you put the needle on top of the shim so it will then take it to 1.5 from top?

Correct.

Each clip is 0.9mm apart so a shim of about half a millimeter is what your looking for.

As said you can get half clip needles as well as different diameters. But finding a shim is a good solution you can use on any bike.

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Sound, il try a shim and il do a proper plug chop now I got a kill switch wired up

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