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650 Clutch Disengagement Issues

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Hello everyone, I ran into trouble while wrenching on a new to me 2002 Dr650 in flamboyant yellow. It's got 34k on what looks to be the original clutch that looks to still be in good shape. I'm checking all the necessities to ensure that the PO was not some hack.

I went in to check the NSU screws (confirmed to be threadlocked) and replace the thrust wear items (using procycle's kit). That all went well but now I'm having clutch disengagement issues. When the bike is in first with clutch in I get no disengagement at all. If I run it up to 3-4-5 I get some but thats not ideal. I've run the corse adjustment nuts all the way through their travel but still nothing near usable.

To make things clear engaged is when power is being sent to the wheel and disengaged the opposite. I've had the cover off three times now trying to get things to slide and I've moved into the shake stick at God phase of diy mechanic-ing.

Is there a special procedure for lining up the clutch arm, setting the slack, etc that I'm missing? I cannot even get the limited amount of disengagement I've scratched out without completely removing all freeway from the lever.

I see a couple of threads on the topic from ten years ago but all the images have expired and I'm left with words that only kind of make sense. I suppose this is one way to make a first post!

Edited by jdirt91

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Also, I've made doubly sure of the torque vals on  clutch springs and hub. 

36 ft/lb on the hub 

Barely tight on the springs.

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you are using the terms slippage, engage, slip, not really following you.

in any case, for the sake of science, try to go back to your old friction/steel plates. OEM are best.

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3 hours ago, turboguzzi said:

you are using the terms slippage, engage, slip, not really following you.

in any case, for the sake of science, try to go back to your old friction/steel plates. OEM are best.

Yea that's my bad I was writing this at 2am so I wasn't completely coherent.

What I mean in general is that I have limited to no disengagement from the clutch. Even with the lever pulled in to the bar it doesn't roll freely while in gear. 

Didn't change the clutch plates so that's not my issue.

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so what are the "thrust wear items" you changed? not that clear either and why you changed them.

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dr350 has same problem. do this check: take plates out and check the inner basket rotates freely by hand and that the outer basket has just a little bit of axial play. if there is none, the bushing in the center is too short and you are clamping on the basket creating friction. if this is the case, you need to grind some material off the clutch basket surface that meets the inner trust washer.

Edited by turboguzzi
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Ok wasn't quite the correct solution but you got me on the right track.

I had the clutch part no. 8 washer under the locking tab instead of behind part no. 4 (inner hub maybe? Don't know the name). It has me scratching my head because I cannot remeber for the life of me removing the washer from that location.

Thank you very much for your help.

Edited by jdirt91

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