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2009 Ktm excf aftermarket exhaust help

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I’m looking at getting an aftermarket exhaust for my 2009 Ktm excf just wondering where to actually find them for this bike and will exhausts off of other bikes fit it from later years and different model Ktm dirt bikes?

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Just go to one of the big parts suppliers like Rocky Mountain MCATV and do a search for parts for your specific make and model.  It will show you what is available.

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Is it a 500? First you might want to consider what it is that you are after with the new exhaust? Are you wanting it to have more top for racing? Do you want it louder or quieter? More bottom end? And are you looking at just muffler or the header pipe?

 

i ask because when I went through that process for my 2015 KTM I learned that the factory muffler is pretty good. But the end cap is sh$t and the root of a lot of problems. But it is easy to replace. I went The pro Moto billet cap. And very happy. And save a ton of money. I just wanted the bike to run well and I don’t race. Just trail ride and dual sport stuff. Most of the FMF pipes are for “racing”. 

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6 minutes ago, Callum1999 said:

It’s a 250 and if I was the just get a new end cap would I need to adjust anything so it runs alright?

So know you are in a heaving and complex topic. Good news is there are hundreds of articles and videos in the topic. Bad news there are hundreds of opinions. 
 

If your EXC is like a 500 EXC it is “plugged up” for California emissions.  If you “unplug” it, you most definitely change the way the model can vent air, which means it will take more air, which means the fuel to air ratio is now more air than fuel. So the general consensus is that you need to change the fuel mix to add more fuel. 
 

here is where the opinions come in. Will your bike run worse than it did before you unplugged it? I say, yes, some.  It tends to want to “pop” a bit when you let off the throttle, and the bike tends to run hot.  Not a ton more difference, but the bike running hot is a reasonable concern to have .

 

will bike run better than it did before you unplugged it? Not really.  For the reasons above.  
 

How do you get more fuel? Lots of opinions here. I have grown to trust Mike at Taco Moto. I think he shoots straight. He isn’t always 100%, but I think he aims to shoot straight. Others follow the KTM Husky guy. I stopped watching him.  Some things are.....

watch this video from Mike (scroll down).  He goes thru it all.  Best 51 mins of your dirt bike life.  From there you can choose what’s right for you. And, and I’m making some assumptions your 250 shares the same principles as my 500 .

 

back to the exhaust.  If yours is like mine, the end cap is the culprit. The rest of the muffler is fine.  Most videos show removing the screen at the very end of the cap.  Indeed that fixes the largest “plug”  but it still leaves a lot of back pressure because the hole is smaller then the header.  To the point that my 500 (and others) blow the end cap off!  Rips screws right thru the aluminum!  The billet cap fixes that. And on a second order I added the turndown .  It knocks another 6db off the sound, and these guys who run the bike on the dynos swear it does not impede flow or HP.

For me, my short term fix was the “tps hack”.  The very thing Mike in that video says does not work. But like I said, I don’t always like up 100% with him .  I think he bases most of his judgement on 2017-2020 engines.  And those I read the TPS hack does not work. For me it stopped popping, and running so hot.  That said, I never expected another 30 HP from a TPS hack, i was just trying to cool by bike.

 

Even with the TPS hack I know my bike is lean after half throttle, and I want to make that right. ultimately I have decided I will address it with the GET ECU.  It’s a big investment however, and I had some safety and longevity upgrades to do first.  Hoping by fall.

Deep answer I know.

here is mikes video  he is a great guy. I email him and he gives me advice even if it costs him a sale.  In return, when I buy, I go to him.  He will be the provider of my GET.

 

 

 

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17 hours ago, Brian Hamner said:

So know you are in a heaving and complex topic. Good news is there are hundreds of articles and videos in the topic. Bad news there are hundreds of opinions. 
 

If your EXC is like a 500 EXC it is “plugged up” for California emissions.  If you “unplug” it, you most definitely change the way the model can vent air, which means it will take more air, which means the fuel to air ratio is now more air than fuel. So the general consensus is that you need to change the fuel mix to add more fuel. 
 

here is where the opinions come in. Will your bike run worse than it did before you unplugged it? I say, yes, some.  It tends to want to “pop” a bit when you let off the throttle, and the bike tends to run hot.  Not a ton more difference, but the bike running hot is a reasonable concern to have .

 

will bike run better than it did before you unplugged it? Not really.  For the reasons above.  
 

How do you get more fuel? Lots of opinions here. I have grown to trust Mike at Taco Moto. I think he shoots straight. He isn’t always 100%, but I think he aims to shoot straight. Others follow the KTM Husky guy. I stopped watching him.  Some things are.....

watch this video from Mike (scroll down).  He goes thru it all.  Best 51 mins of your dirt bike life.  From there you can choose what’s right for you. And, and I’m making some assumptions your 250 shares the same principles as my 500 .

 

back to the exhaust.  If yours is like mine, the end cap is the culprit. The rest of the muffler is fine.  Most videos show removing the screen at the very end of the cap.  Indeed that fixes the largest “plug”  but it still leaves a lot of back pressure because the hole is smaller then the header.  To the point that my 500 (and others) blow the end cap off!  Rips screws right thru the aluminum!  The billet cap fixes that. And on a second order I added the turndown .  It knocks another 6db off the sound, and these guys who run the bike on the dynos swear it does not impede flow or HP.

For me, my short term fix was the “tps hack”.  The very thing Mike in that video says does not work. But like I said, I don’t always like up 100% with him .  I think he bases most of his judgement on 2017-2020 engines.  And those I read the TPS hack does not work. For me it stopped popping, and running so hot.  That said, I never expected another 30 HP from a TPS hack, i was just trying to cool by bike.

 

Even with the TPS hack I know my bike is lean after half throttle, and I want to make that right. ultimately I have decided I will address it with the GET ECU.  It’s a big investment however, and I had some safety and longevity upgrades to do first.  Hoping by fall.

Deep answer I know.

here is mikes video  he is a great guy. I email him and he gives me advice even if it costs him a sale.  In return, when I buy, I go to him.  He will be the provider of my GET.

 

 

 

If the bike is an ‘09, I believe it is carbureted, not fuel injected.  With an aftermarket pipe, you may have to rejet a little richer, but it isn’t as big of an issue as with FI bikes, and is easy and cheap to do.

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4 hours ago, Gflo said:

If the bike is an ‘09, I believe it is carbureted, not fuel injected.  With an aftermarket pipe, you may have to rejet a little richer, but it isn’t as big of an issue as with FI bikes, and is easy and cheap to do.

Good call. I’m so in FI mode now I forget about carbs. Still an fuel to air ratio issue to be addressed, but fixed with $2O dollar jets and and air screw experiments. And not $800 programmable ECU’s. 

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