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CoronaCarl

Adding Exhaust and doing a few Other Things!

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Finally getting around to putting on my DuckyDog header, along with a BBR slip-on. While I've got it tore down I removed the pair valve and evap canister.

I have to make a mid pipe to fit the BBR and install the EJK.

IMG_20200707_190929928.jpg.709b3e6681010d4575eec062c8efe0a5.jpg

Speaking of the EJK, I know everybody says to use Posi's settings but for the life of me I can't find them anymore. Can someone help me out?

Edited by CoronaCarl
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Someone else’s notes I have saved:

EJK settings bottom line IMO: Explore what works for your engine, riding preference, and economy vs power desires. 

Dobeck's default settings for stage one produce more power than lower numbers. They are not 'too rich' as some suggest, but they do produce considerably more carbon buildup in the exhaust and spark arrestor. choices and consequences. 

Lower numbers provide greater economy at the expense of some power. I prefer optimal power without being silly or wasteful, so my 'current' (I play endlessly with the EJK) settings are: 

2, 3, 6, 4, 3, 3.5. My cruise 'Green' setting is reduced to 2 to improve economy without noticeably reducing power. The switch point (last 3 numbers) are reduced from Dobeck's defaults to kick in the added fuel (first 3 numbers) just a tad sooner. That improves throttle response, assuming you've got things tuned well enough to cope with that. You can to 2.5 on the blue/yellow and blue/red, but don't go below 4 on the blue/green switch point (it can cause stalling at stops). 

My performance mods are:

-- 2.5 inch I.D. custom fab'd snorkel

-- K&N air filter

-- Full Yoshi RS-4 Comp Series exhaust with spark arrestor instead of low volume insert, plus a custom fab'd decibel reducer.

-- Completely removed the PAIR system

-- Gearing: 14 tooth drive and 42 tooth driven

-- Krieger manual CCT

-- O2 Sensor is currently 'connected.' I have explored disconnecting it many times. Disconnecting improves low end, but at a cost of 3 - 4 mpg (imperial). If you disconnect the O2 Sensor, you should tweak the green and yellow fuel settings, and also the blue/green and blue/yellow switch points to get the most out of it.j”

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Posted (edited)

Notes I have taken (900ft elevation) 

EJK set to 1.5, 2.0, 3.5 - 4/29/2016 (2” airbox mod & K&N - stock muffler)

EJK set to 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 - 4/30/2016 (seemed rich)

EJK set to 1.5, 2.5, 4.5 - 5/4/2016 (fmf megabomb & PC4 added) 

Test EJK settings to try:

( 2 / 3 / 5.5  * 5.5 / 3.5 / 4.5)

Edited by rz_racer_69
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So I ran out of time to finish the exhaust. Had to put stock back on to go riding.

I got the EJK installed and did the airbox mod. O2 unhooked for now. Set EJK to 1.5,2,2.5 iirc. Showed improvement in power and delivery.

Stock with 13/42 gears my son's WR250R would pull on my in a drag race. He would start pulling right from the start.

With just EJK and airbox mod we were neck and neck up to about 35mph then he would slowly start pulling on me.

Can't wait to see what the custom exhaust does.

Edited by CoronaCarl
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CRF250L 2020

Yoshi full system 

EJK fuel controller

Taken O2 sensor off completely and plugged

Air box mod + High flo filter 

It’s absolutely running like a dream on these settings, make sure you run whatever settings you choose for a good week or so so the bike gets used to it ! Yeew 

 

See ya later fuel but hello fun !

3-3-6-5-4-4.5 🙏🏽

Edited by Lewin Woods
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4 hours ago, Lewin Woods said:

CRF250L 2020

Yoshi full system 

EJK fuel controller

Taken O2 sensor off completely and plugged

Air box mod + High flo filter 

It’s absolutely running like a dream on these settings, make sure you run whatever settings you choose for a good week or so so the bike gets used to it ! Yeew 

 

See ya later fuel but hello fun !

3-3-6-5-4-4.5 🙏🏽

Did you try it with the O2 sensor still on? I have mine in so far.

EJK says "Currently suggest just to leave the O2 sensor plugged in if present. We have not found much affect either way for the tune-up. There is not an O2 bypass kit developed for the bike."

Eventually I'll probably have to try it both ways and see if I notice a difference.

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8 minutes ago, rz_racer_69 said:

I’m running the O2 in my FMF Megabomb. No issues. 

I figured there wouldn't be any issues, just more curious if there was any difference in power and/or delivery of the power. Or fuel economy.

If your running it with now, have you tried it without? Also what year?

I'll probably start with it plugged back in for awhile. Then at some point unplug it and see if it makes a difference.

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2 hours ago, CoronaCarl said:

Did you try it with the O2 sensor still on? I have mine in so far.

EJK says "Currently suggest just to leave the O2 sensor plugged in if present. We have not found much affect either way for the tune-up. There is not an O2 bypass kit developed for the bike."

Eventually I'll probably have to try it both ways and see if I notice a difference.

Definitely gives it more bite without, and I noticed this before my mods, was the first thing I did 

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Got the exhaust done and took bike out yesterday. Did a drag with the son's WR250R. I jumped out in front of him by a bike length at least, at 47ish he slowly started to gain the difference back and pulled ahead.

Will run bike this way for awhile and then drag race him again to see how it's doing. Will do it on pavement to get the best result, but so far I'm pretty happy with the increase in power.

I think I will eventually try the 17+ throttle body to see what it does.

 

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I probably out weigh him by 30 if not 40 pounds.

 

Guess I should mention he has a brand new Kenda Trackmaster 2, while I have a MotoZ Tractionator IT that is starting to round off and is 70%. We did launch on a concrete bridge that was about 20 feet long, so that helped eliminate the difference in rear tire. The one time we did it in the gravel he definitely had the advantage.

Like I said, next time we do it on pavement, so it will be a better comparison. Which is how we did it with stock exhaust, ejk, and airbox mod.

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Weight will definitely affect your dragrace results. You might want to consider adding 40 lbs of gear to his bike, and see if it still outruns yours. 👍🏻

I would be surprised if it did. 

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Ya weighting his bike would definitely make a difference.

I wasn't necessarily trying to beat his WR, it was just a way to compare the gains in my bike. Funner than a stop watch and cheaper than an actual Dyno. Plus it's probably more accurate than the good old butt Dyno.

Plus it gives others a comparison that is tangible.

I'd say pretty good gains for the money I've spent so far. I did score a slightly used BBR slip on, that I had to make a new mid pipe for. That helped keep cost down.

$180 for head pipe

$215 for EJK

$25 for slip on

$20 for mid pipe

$20 for misc clamps, bolts, sealant.

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Ok for an update, we dragged on the pavement.

The CRF250L (mods; 13/42, pair valve and evap canister delete, airbox mod, Ducky Dog header, BBR slip on with custom mid pipe, no O2 sensor) pulls on a WR250R (mod; rear 49 tooth sprocket) right from the start until about 47mph, then the stay steady until about 53mph when the WR starts pulling back even and then ahead. We let off around 65mph.

Also remember I'm 30 pounds heavier than my boy, plus the difference in bike weight.

 

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