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motoxvet

DR250 - Wont start

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A little more work on the DR.  I squirted some gas into the carb and after a few kicks, it started but again, try anything above 1/8 throttle, it WILL die, unless you back off the throttle a little.  Again, after several seconds it  still dies.  I still have the muffler off (testing!) so I can REALLY hear what the motor wants.  It really acts like no other fuel circuits except idle and maybe a hair above idle are working.   Carb is off again & clean enough to eat out of.  Since I don't trust the bone head PO, I don't really even know if all these carb parts are OE.  I started wondering if the emulsion tube was bottoming  on the carb body and not even reaching up to the jet needle, leaving a gap in between.  After careful checking with a dial calipers, that isn't an issue.   2 things I haven't done yet but I don't think they're critical to figure this out - check TDC on the flywheel vs. the piston position.  Since when it runs, it actually sounds good, I don't think low compression is an issue - but I'll check it anyway.  I will put the carb on my detail work bench & stare at it until something lights up.  

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1 hour ago, motoxvet said:

A little more work on the DR.  I squirted some gas into the carb and after a few kicks, it started but again, try anything above 1/8 throttle, it WILL die, unless you back off the throttle a little.  Again, after several seconds it  still dies.  I still have the muffler off (testing!) so I can REALLY hear what the motor wants.  It really acts like no other fuel circuits except idle and maybe a hair above idle are working.   Carb is off again & clean enough to eat out of.  Since I don't trust the bone head PO, I don't really even know if all these carb parts are OE.  I started wondering if the emulsion tube was bottoming  on the carb body and not even reaching up to the jet needle, leaving a gap in between.  After careful checking with a dial calipers, that isn't an issue.   2 things I haven't done yet but I don't think they're critical to figure this out - check TDC on the flywheel vs. the piston position.  Since when it runs, it actually sounds good, I don't think low compression is an issue - but I'll check it anyway.  I will put the carb on my detail work bench & stare at it until something lights up.  

Check to see if the carbs mixture adjustment screw has the o-ring and washer? Seen that a lot at work, if they're missing it won't run right usually.

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1 minute ago, ASP1227 said:

Check to see if the carbs mixture adjustment screw has the o-ring and washer? Seen that a lot at work, if they're missing it won't run right usually.

its a 2 stroke they have a air screw not a mixture screw

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10 hours ago, ASP1227 said:

Check to see if the carbs mixture adjustment screw has the o-ring and washer? Seen that a lot at work, if they're missing it won't run right usually.

Yup, the air screw has an o-ring.  I've also tried that screw bottomed, a couple turns out AND many turns out.  Made no difference.  

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referring back to the diagramm its not supposed to have a orings its just washer and spring. try taking it off and see it that makes it any better also send a picture of the spark plug to know what condition its running

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47 minutes ago, Triple Nine Motorsports said:

referring back to the diagramm its not supposed to have a orings its just washer and spring. try taking it off and see it that makes it any better also send a picture of the spark plug to know what condition its running

On the Partzilla page for '85 carb, it shows an o-ring and a spring.  Mine has an o-ring but no spring and I don't see where ON MINE there's room for a spring to fit in there and be compressed to do what it's supposed to.  That's why I suspected a while back it's not the correct one but it does screw all the way in and bottom so it should work.  (BTW-It's an obsolete part from Suzuki).  I've looked at the plug many times.  It's a little damp and a little sooty.  Remember it hasn't got up to operating temp yet.  It does look like a new plug from the PO.   I'm game to trying another Suzuki carb but I'm not that familiar with the Suzuki 250 models.   If this goes no where, I may start a new thread with the question "What other 250 carbs will work on my '85 DR250?"

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I pushed the DR into the short term storage shed.  I've been spending too much time on it this past week & I have to close up the cabin now so that's got priority.  Unless I find something obvious on the carb, I'm going to look for another carb to put on it.  

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On 9/17/2020 at 1:46 PM, motoxvet said:

I pushed the DR into the short term storage shed.  I've been spending too much time on it this past week & I have to close up the cabin now so that's got priority.  Unless I find something obvious on the carb, I'm going to look for another carb to put on it.  

Motoxvet, Try Babbitt's Online, BABBITTSONLINE.com.  That's where I have got all the parts I needed for my 99 DR350SE.  They haven't failed me yet.

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14 minutes ago, GlennRay said:

Motoxvet, Try Babbitt's Online, BABBITTSONLINE.com.  That's where I have got all the parts I needed for my 99 DR350SE.  They haven't failed me yet.

  Thanks for the suggestion.  I appreciate the help but it's the same as other OEM parts houses.  The carb was only used for a year or 2 but is "no longer available".  Not that I would buy one but I don't even see any corroded pieces of junk on ebay.  Rare as hens teeth!  2 things I haven't checked yet - check that the rotor hasn't sheared the key and do a compression test.  I don't think compression is a problem because when I was kicking repeatedly, I missed the compression release (actually a clever device in it's design) and when I missed, my foot STOPPED when I hit the compression stroke.  I may buy some cheap aftermarket carb just to get it rolling.  

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Just now, motoxvet said:

  Thanks for the suggestion.  I appreciate the help but it's the same as other OEM parts houses.  The carb was only used for a year or 2 but is "no longer available".  Not that I would buy one but I don't even see any corroded pieces of junk on ebay.  Rare as hens teeth!  2 things I haven't checked yet - check that the rotor hasn't sheared the key and do a compression test.  I don't think compression is a problem because when I was kicking repeatedly, I missed the compression release (actually a clever device in it's design) and when I missed, my foot STOPPED when I hit the compression stroke.  I may buy some cheap aftermarket carb just to get it rolling.  

I didn't realize they were that rare.  I thought it would be like the 350.

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1 hour ago, GlennRay said:

I didn't realize they were that rare.  I thought it would be like the 350.

My DR350SE is very sensitive to its pilot jet.  After it sits for a few weeks with out being run it won't start, no matter the temperature, except on the enrichener circuit.  After letting it run for 5 or more minutes it dies as soon as the "choke" knob is pushed in.  I have found twice now that I have to pull the float bowl off and clean out the pilot jet to make it run right.  I would take a very close look at that pilot jet circuit.  Another thing that may have nothing to do with the DR250 but was new to me when I got my DR350 was that the DR350 has a vacuum activated petcock.  As such, there is a vacuum port from the side of the carb that is connected to the back of the petcock with a hose.  This port can cause all kinds of problems if it is not sealed off.

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Back on the DR after a few weeks of fall chores.  I had to BUY a compression gauge to get a 12 mm. fitting for the head.  It just arrived yesterday.  Screwed the fitting in, gave it a bunch of kicks and it peaked at 132 lb.  I squirted a couple squirts of oil down the plug hole, checked it again and the pressure went up to 190.  It kicked so hard after the oil squirts, I couldn't kick it worth a damm without using the OE compression release.   Obviously a tired motor but I HOPED it would run anyway.  Tried AGAIN to start it.  Squirted a couple of squirts of gas down the carb, kicked about 10 times and like before, it would run for a few seconds and die.  I tried to hold it at a fast idle but it wouldn't hold it.  So I don't think the low compression would be so bad as to not let it run.  It did pop a couple of times and once when I was looking in the right direction, I saw a small flame pop out of the exhaust pipe.  (Still no muffler on it)  That made me think back to a flywheel/key issue.   

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12 hours ago, motoxvet said:

Back on the DR after a few weeks of fall chores.  I had to BUY a compression gauge to get a 12 mm. fitting for the head.  It just arrived yesterday.  Screwed the fitting in, gave it a bunch of kicks and it peaked at 132 lb.  I squirted a couple squirts of oil down the plug hole, checked it again and the pressure went up to 190.  It kicked so hard after the oil squirts, I couldn't kick it worth a damm without using the OE compression release.   Obviously a tired motor but I HOPED it would run anyway.  Tried AGAIN to start it.  Squirted a couple of squirts of gas down the carb, kicked about 10 times and like before, it would run for a few seconds and die.  I tried to hold it at a fast idle but it wouldn't hold it.  So I don't think the low compression would be so bad as to not let it run.  It did pop a couple of times and once when I was looking in the right direction, I saw a small flame pop out of the exhaust pipe.  (Still no muffler on it)  That made me think back to a flywheel/key issue.   

flame could be because of bad valves or bad timing i dont see why magneto key would be an issue. it either works or breaks

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I had other bikes do this but were 2T's.  The key sheared and all kinds of strange popping and reluctance to start.  

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if it had sheared youd be able to see that the T timing mark doesnt match the pointer in th einspection hole when piston is in TDC,

5 mins check, not rocket science....

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