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supercross Ferrandis is going to be a force in the 450 class

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Just now, RMZ819 said:

MM25 rides his best when he has no championship pressure. When it matters he can't deliver.

and CW is the opposite, not the fastest guy but can step up and get it done. 

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24 minutes ago, Dirtstache 556 said:

and CW is the opposite, not the fastest guy but can step up and get it done. 

You are 100% correct!

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2 hours ago, deanevo said:

I don't know..have you adjusted the front end rebound already?

I did, haven't tested yet.

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I think no one will dominate the points/wins this year. The field is filled with good racers old and new so, each week winning will be a toss up.

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43 minutes ago, redrider144 said:

I did, haven't tested yet.

Will you test it this weekend?

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4 minutes ago, deanevo said:

Will you test it this weekend?

Not sure yet.  I rode Friday Saturday & Sunday last weekend.

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12 hours ago, Betty Buttflaps said:

I’m not too hot with suspending work . I’m good at making them leak oil . I’m right at home when working as a molten metallurgical fusionist 

Perfect, can you please help me fix my bike.

20200914_123326.jpg.846c04ef56b0fed9cfeee5f538efaa27.jpg

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8 hours ago, redrider144 said:

Redrider-ing (lately anyhow) involves a lot of blaming bike setup, even though everyone else that tries it thinks it's perfect.

My fork springs are kinda stiff, people seem to agree the front rides high and doesn't settle in turns.  Which seems to make dialing in the rear sag more of a challenge, finding the mid point between "won't turn" and "doesn't wanna go straight."

If you have the correct springs, try raising the forks in the clamps 4-5mm. That is, if you haven't already.

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21 hours ago, redrider144 said:

It's a verb.  To be "chaconne'd" means getting your bunghole plundered repeatedly.  

And to be redrider'd means to get your bunghole lovingly washed. Synonym for @redrider144 Bunghole washer.

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9 hours ago, redrider144 said:

Redrider-ing (lately anyhow) involves a lot of blaming bike setup, even though everyone else that tries it thinks it's perfect.

My fork springs are kinda stiff, people seem to agree the front rides high and doesn't settle in turns.  Which seems to make dialing in the rear sag more of a challenge, finding the mid point between "won't turn" and "doesn't wanna go straight."

Sounds like you have an outbreak of genital @mog

Edited by Chaconne

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3 hours ago, indy rider said:

If you have the correct springs, try raising the forks in the clamps 4-5mm. That is, if you haven't already.

They're .46.  For comparison, I think a stock YZ250 is rated at .43.  Yeah lowering the front would be the next step if nothing else works.

Edited by redrider144

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5 hours ago, redrider144 said:

They're .46.  For comparison, I think a stock YZ250 is rated at .43.  Yeah lowering the front would be the next step if nothing else works.

Just remember what McGrath said about what he did wrong when he went to Suzuki. He tried to hard to make it identical to his Honda, and never jelled with the bike completely. When he jumped camp to Yamaha, he made sure to just improve it for what it was, and not try to make it a Honda clone.

 

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11 hours ago, redrider144 said:

They're .46.  For comparison, I think a stock YZ250 is rated at .43.  Yeah lowering the front would be the next step if nothing else works.

I would just do that next, it only takes a pair of seconds and sounds like based on everything else you said about the bike that it is the most likely "fix" for the situation.  

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2 minutes ago, OUTERLIMITS said:

I would just do that next, it only takes a pair of seconds and sounds like based on everything else you said about the bike that it is the most likely "fix" for the situation.  

I've noticed teams do that with SX bikes, that obviously have relatively stiff springs.  My intuition is that I'd be able to dial in the rear and get the same outcome.  IDK.  We'll see I guess.

Edited by redrider144

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1 minute ago, redrider144 said:

I've noticed teams do that with SX bikes, that obviously have relatively stiff springs.

I'd have to go back and read everything you said about the bike, but I've always felt that moving the forks up and down in the clamps made a big difference.  I ride mostly desert and have always run mine flush, but the times that they have been slid up 3-5mm it was really noticeable....at least in stability loss.  

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11 hours ago, redrider144 said:

They're .46.  For comparison, I think a stock YZ250 is rated at .43.  Yeah lowering the front would be the next step if nothing else works.

I suspect the KTM 2 strokes would benefit from a different rear link length to make them a little stiffer initially, and possibly 22mm offset triple clamps.  My 500 engine in the Kawasaki aluminum frame just didn't work at all until I made those changes.  I think the 2T rides the rear wheel a lot harder and the changes help when you're using a 2T in a chassis largely designed for a 4T.  I haven't tried it yet, I could be wrong, but it's in the plans.

Edited by mxaniac

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4 minutes ago, mxaniac said:

I suspect the KTM 2 strokes would benefit from a different rear link length to make them a little stiffer initially, and possibly 22mm offset triple clamps.  My 500 engine in the Kawasaki aluminum frame just didn't work at all until I made those changes.  I think the 2T rides the rest wheel a lot harder and the changes help when you're using a 2T in a chassis largely designed for a 4T.  I haven't tried it yet, I could be wrong, but it's in the plans.

The guy that did my forks has said he thinks the shock is more important (I only shipped the forks because I was only wanting a spring conversion, which was probably a mistake).

I think it's a bit different than you describe but you're close.  He goes with a stiffer rear spring and I *think* a more linear linkage.  Definitely something different with linkage.

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9 minutes ago, OUTERLIMITS said:

I'd have to go back and read everything you said about the bike, but I've always felt that moving the forks up and down in the clamps made a big difference.  I ride mostly desert and have always run mine flush, but the times that they have been slid up 3-5mm it was really noticeable....at least in stability loss.  

I didn't notice anything unusual until I started riding tight singletrack.  Front was pushing, and I think I was running too much rear sag.  Then I went too far the other way, and I was getting some head shake on a fast sweeper on a MX track.  The rear felt abnormally high too.  But it certainly turned well.

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7 minutes ago, redrider144 said:

The guy that did my forks has said he thinks the shock is more important (I only shipped the forks because I was only wanting a spring conversion, which was probably a mistake).

I think it's a bit different than you describe but you're close.  He goes with a stiffer rear spring and I *think* a more linear linkage.  Definitely something different with linkage.

If I recall correctly, a 2mm shorter link changed the initial ratio on the Kawi to be stiffer, so that agrees with what you're saying.   Less difference between start and stop ratio is the same as more linear.  I had to massivly revalve the Kawi too.  On my TC, I've never ridden a bike that inspires so much confidence in the whoops.  The valving is excellent stock.  I just think the link change might load the front a little more.

Edited by mxaniac
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3 minutes ago, mxaniac said:

If I recall correctly, a 2mm shorter link changed the initial ratio on the Kawi to be stiffer, so that agrees with what you're saying.   Less difference between start and stop ratio is the same as more linear.  I had to massivly revalve the Kawi too.  On my TC, I've never ridden a bike that inspires so much confidence in the whoops.  The valving is excellent stock.  I just think the link change might load the front a little more.

Whatever he does with the linkage, it requires a stiffer rear spring.

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