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Flo702

YZ250X eating clutches

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So I have a 17' 250X that I can't seem to keep clutches in, the bike has 39 hours, the OEM clutch burned out of it shortly after I got it last fall from an older gentleman that trail rides, replaced with Wiseco and got about 6 hours out of that one before it has started slipping. I fan the clutch lever a lot on sandy tracks but I have never had had this issue with my 250sx or any other bikes.  I ride MX tracks around Texas with it. Is there a difference between the clutch packs/springs in the standard YX250 compared to the X? Looking to go that route if the clutch pack for a regular YZ will tolerate more abuse. 

FB_IMG_1604841992907.jpg

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Yes, the clutch springs (with attendant screws & washers) are 'softer' for the YZ250X than the standard YZ.

Switching to the non-X pieces should extend the life of the clutch plates, but will give a stiffer feel at the lever.

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Standard YZ250...

image.png.91be0db3876310930e629e723d68d2a3.png

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2017/yz250-yz250h2/clutch

----------------------------------------------------

YZ250X...

image.png.5c4312eee168c38de5094fae9bf2a290.png

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2017/yz250x-yz250xh/clutch

----------------------------------------------------

Good luck, and keep us posted with what you find. 👍

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I’ll add that if you buy the YZ OEM kit, it will take care of the springs. 

Then all you need are the screws if the X don’t work. Can’t think of why they wouldn’t. Same hub/plate/basket. 

Edited by YZDOC
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Select gears more properly and stop fanning the shit out of the clutch. There’s no need for it. It just makes you look like a beginner.

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5 hours ago, YZDOC said:

Then all you need are the screws if the X don’t work. Can’t think of why they wouldn’t.

IIRC, the X springs are a bit shorter, and the washers on the X screws are thicker to make up the difference.

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Make sure it has the red springs and not purple. He could have put 125 springs in there if he had a bad index finger.  If springs are correct I’d have to say it’s the loose nut behind the bars.  I’m at 50hrs on my x and a fair bit of clutch feathering running some tight, hilly, Lewis&Clark singletrack and it looked pristine(and in spec)when I had it out. Then I put in the cheater clutch😝🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽

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46 minutes ago, Canyon 701SM said:

Select gears more properly and stop fanning the shit out of the clutch. There’s no need for it. It just makes you look like a beginner.

This! Just this will get you 25, 50, or even more hours out of your clutch.

Of course, if you are a factory rider, riding balls-to-the-wall all the time, for sure wring the snot out of it, 'cause Ace, your factory mechanic, will be in the pits with the factory van full of parts waiting to swap in a new pack before the next Moto. 

Otherwise, anticipation, being in the right gear at the right time, using just the right amount of overrev to catch good torque in the next gear, and just enough clutch to snick the next gear, will obviate the need for clutch fanning except for the few times you get caught out and need just a little slippage to get back on the pipe.

Hmmm, maybe @Flo702 is Graham Jarvis' handle? If so, carry on. What do I know?

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Not sure what tranny oil your using, and I don't race but ride my bikes are and have had good luck with Maxima MTL and change it like 10 Max when I change the engine oil/filter on my 2005 CRF250R

Also make sure you have the correct free play and simple thing to check

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I run 3 of the stiffer YZ springs on my YZ250's and 125's. Pro Circuit use to sell 15% stiffer than stock YZ springs. So you can run 3 or all 6. I also run ATF Type F transmission fluid in all my YZ's. Shifts better, clutch action improved. Just change out more often, it's cheap. Also running aluminum clutch plates, and stock fibers. Zero clutch issues, and they wear like iron.

Edited by mrdsee
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The springs will help and technique will help. However, like a couple others have mentioned - what trans oil are you using? In case you weren't aware, you can't use regular automobile oil. That will cause exactly the issues you are describing because of additives used in that kind of oil. 

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6 hours ago, YZDOC said:

I’ll add that if you buy the YZ OEM kit, it will take care of the springs. 

Then all you need are the screws if the X don’t work. Can’t think of why they wouldn’t. Same hub/plate/basket. 

By the pn, both are 6mm, but it looks like the length is different. Maybe the washer thickness. Not sure...

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The power level and the gear ratios as well as other things like clutch and suspension of the X model , were made to change it from something that would work on an MX track to something that is better for enduro or hare scrambles....

Why would you pick the X model and then go to sandy MX tracks with it??

The sand and the lower power and the wider gear ratios are a perfect recipe for clutch failure...

Perhaps a straight up mx bike would be a better choice for Mx?? Just a guess....

Edited by mixxer
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10 hours ago, Flo702 said:

So I have a 17' 250X that I can't seem to keep clutches in, the bike has 39 hours, the OEM clutch burned out of it shortly after I got it last fall from an older gentleman that trail rides, replaced with Wiseco and got about 6 hours out of that one before it has started slipping. I fan the clutch lever a lot on sandy tracks but I have never had had this issue with my 250sx or any other bikes.  I ride MX tracks around Texas with it. Is there a difference between the clutch packs/springs in the standard YX250 compared to the X? Looking to go that route if the clutch pack for a regular YZ will tolerate more abuse. 

FB_IMG_1604841992907.jpg

 You need standard OEM YZ clutch pack springs and screws.

The X  screws have an extra small washer that extends the height of the clutch boss decreasing the springs preload. 

Edited by Kinger317
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I bet you don't release the tension at end of day. Then it slips alittle every time you go again eventually smokes clutch. You wanna back off quick adjust at end of day so there's play. Then adjust next time when warm up. Then release when done. What I've always done in my 25 years racing and never once smoked a clutch on a 250

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Like "mrdsee" sez, Type F ATF FTW.  I picked up a 1991 WR500 new from a dealer that was going out of business(in 1991). I immediately sent the motor to Noleen for porting and crank balancing (plus pipe), and it was a truly terrifying (But fun) machine. It had a powerband like a 125, so fanning the clutch was not only fun, but an effective way to go fast.

Without Type F ATF the clutch had no chance, but with it the bike could take 4th gear full throttle clutch fans and create enough rear wheel spin to displace mud with an M5b on a Delaware Enduro powerline to a depth that created asphalt-like traction. I passed MANY truly stuck riders (minute 61, so ~240 DEEP rider ruts) including a few guys on new CR500's. I sold it when I got a good deal on a 1993 CR500 leftover. Kinda wished I'd kept it just for the "retro" coolness...

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10 hours ago, YZDOC said:

Honda HP 80/85 oil and your clutch will last a real long time. 

This is absolutely true.  I will praise honda clutch oil up and down all day.  That stuff is the best. 

10 hours ago, Motox367 said:

I bet you don't release the tension at end of day. Then it slips alittle every time you go again eventually smokes clutch. You wanna back off quick adjust at end of day so there's play. Then adjust next time when warm up. Then release when done. What I've always done in my 25 years racing and never once smoked a clutch on a 250

This is very helpful bud, I have never heard of doing this at all, nor have I done it.  Great little piece of info for everyone that owns a bike. Thanks. 

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