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Crf150r not running after rebuild


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2 minutes ago, 3514vmach1 said:

That first vid I posted for you about setting the valves from youtube, you can see the cetrifugal decompression weight right on the end of the cam. The spring should hold it in decompression mode, when the engine starts it spins fast enough and the weight overcomes the spring tension and it moves to the other side where it won't lower compression. When its in start position it catches on one of the valves and releases a bit of compression to make the bike easier to kick over. On the 250f we had no way could you kick that sucker without the decompressor.

 

Ye idk my bike I’ve seen on YouTube videos of people running it without the decompression weight and I ran it without the weight in when it ran for the good minute I had it going 

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1 minute ago, Benjamin Dube said:

I’ve gotten them out before, but what are you talking about when u say I will see? What should I look for 

You've had them out before?

No wonder your shims were all messed up. They all just looked like similar pieces. They were actually quite different. 

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2 minutes ago, Benjamin Dube said:

I messaging a mechanic about it and I might bring it to him, I might not. I’m  getting the leak down tested tonight so I will know then.  

Nothing to know. Those valves are toast. I don't know your bike specifically,  but there might be a better valve you can buy. Stainless perhaps. 

Those valves are destroyed.  

You need new valves and all the work involved with installing whatever valve you purchase. Head will have to get new valve seats cut at minimum. 

Edited by Turn,TheScrew
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1 minute ago, Turn,TheScrew said:

You've had them out before?

No wonder your shims were all messed up. They all just looked like similar pieces. They were actually quite different. 

No I have changed the shims those were the ones the amateur kids threw in I don’t think they knew how to work on bikes they stripped and didn’t have a lot of bolts 

1 minute ago, Turn,TheScrew said:

Nothing to know. Those valves are toast. I don't know your bike specifically,  but there might be a better valve you can buy. Stainless perhaps. 

Ye I was actually gonna just buy new valves anyway this morning figuring it’s gonna need them 

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2 minutes ago, Turn,TheScrew said:

Nothing to know. Those valves are toast. I don't know your bike specifically,  but there might be a better valve you can buy. Stainless perhaps. 

I mean that’s not the reason the bikes running thought because it ran so I means a valve got bent or getting stuck open that’s why the motor was popping when I let the clutch back out 

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I can't even understand what you just wrote. A bunch of half started sentences. 

Anyway, 

The valves need to be replaced. They are part of the problem. 

Your half assembled decompression unit is probably the other problem. 

Edited by Turn,TheScrew
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3 minutes ago, Turn,TheScrew said:

I can't even understand what you just wrote. A bunch of half started sentences. 

Anyway, 

The valves need to be replaced. They are part of the problem. 

Your half assembled decompression unit is probably the other problem. 

Telling you the decompression isn’t the problem I ran the motor with it out and if I were to get a after market cam like hot cams some aren’t supposed to have the decompression weight 

Edited by Benjamin Dube
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Couple quick ways to see if valves are toast without disassembly...

Shine a flashlight at the valve from the combustion chamber side while you look through the port at the valve... See any light? Toast...

Hold head so combustion chamber is horizontal facing floor... Spray carburetor cleaner into the port aiming at valve(s)... Anything leaking into the combustion chamber?? Toast...

Reminder for the novice....

You can't simply pull out old valves and put new ones in... Valve seats need to be freshly cut to allow the new valves to seal....

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I MO: I commend every one that’s attempting to help this kid. I read the thread from beginning to end. What a cluster $&%k. You guy have much patience, don’t know how you do it? 
Moderator needs to lock this thread, appears there is simply no hope after 7 pages of trying....?

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2 hours ago, mixxer said:

You can't simply pull out old valves and put new ones in... Valve seats need to be freshly cut to allow the new valves to seal

Ye I know that’s why I just haven’t bought the valves yet because it’s gonna need machine work and No one around me can do that

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If a person has absolutely no idea what they are doing, they are not going to get it right unless they are simply lucky. One out of a million. There is a point where you have to accept reality and get a pro to fix it. 

More than enough actual experts have chimed in here only to get rebuffed. This has become a thread to no where.

To the OP - Get a service manual. Read it. A lot. Get a simple lawn mower engine to practice on. Do a very small job and ensure success before you try to tackle something else.

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