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Ben500RR-S

Anyone have to replace their valve cover gasket(s)?

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My 2017 500 RR-S now has over 400 hours and 7,000 miles. 

The valve cover has never been off and it has a seep to it down the left/gearshift-side of the head.  Nothing crazy, just that dirt sticks to it and I'm not a fan of any leak.  

I have a new valve cover gasket, the spark plug gasket and the bolt gaskets, and a new spark plug all ready to go and will probably change the gaskets out along with the spark plug this upcoming weekend. 

 

When you adjust/check your valves, do you change the gaskets?  

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I only change the gasket if it it hard, cracked or leaking or 10 years old 😉 , if it's still pliable i reuse it. A little RTV on the half moons to help seal it and you are good to go. Also if you can, order a non-security valve cover bolt to replace the security one. The (at least on the my2020) 4 bolts for the valve cover in the fiche are all the same except 1 which is Torexs security...very annoying. 

You will need to remove your cams if you have to change the valves, also read about the cam chain tensioner twice, it's a different design then anything I have used before, you end up pulling it apart and reassembling it in order to reset it. 

while in there check head bolt torque too

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2 hours ago, Ben500RR-S said:

My 2017 500 RR-S now has over 400 hours and 7,000 miles. 

The valve cover has never been off and it has a seep to it down the left/gearshift-side of the head.  Nothing crazy, just that dirt sticks to it and I'm not a fan of any leak.  

I have a new valve cover gasket, the spark plug gasket and the bolt gaskets, and a new spark plug all ready to go and will probably change the gaskets out along with the spark plug this upcoming weekend. 

 

When you adjust/check your valves, do you change the gaskets?  

After I  adjusted my valves at 150 hours, I did not replace the gasket on my ‘14 450RS as it looked good and I added a small maybe too small amount of gasket sealer (just like the factory did) I should have replaced the gasket as I after 20-30 hours after my adjustment it started a very very slow leak where it has never dripped but the forward left side of the cylinder shows a moist area, never growing more than a 3/4” x. 1.5” long wetspot in 30 hours, yes it’s annoying. 

Next time for me I’d use a new gasket and be more attentive to applying a gasket sealer to both sides of the seal and ensure the mating surfaces are clean dry. 

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4 hours ago, rharr said:

I only change the gasket if it it hard, cracked or leaking or 10 years old 😉 , if it's still pliable i reuse it. A little RTV on the half moons to help seal it and you are good to go. Also if you can, order a non-security valve cover bolt to replace the security one. The (at least on the my2020) 4 bolts for the valve cover in the fiche are all the same except 1 which is Torexs security...very annoying. 

You will need to remove your cams if you have to change the valves, also read about the cam chain tensioner twice, it's a different design then anything I have used before, you end up pulling it apart and reassembling it in order to reset it. 

while in there check head bolt torque too

I'm glad you replied.  

Now I wonder if I will have that security bolt on the top of my valve cover.  

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2 hours ago, Marco the Pool Boy said:

After I  adjusted my valves at 150 hours, I did not replace the gasket on my ‘14 450RS as it looked good and I added a small maybe too small amount of gasket sealer (just like the factory did) I should have replaced the gasket as I after 20-30 hours after my adjustment it started a very very slow leak where it has never dripped but the forward left side of the cylinder shows a moist area, never growing more than a 3/4” x. 1.5” long wetspot in 30 hours, yes it’s annoying. 

Next time for me I’d use a new gasket and be more attentive to applying a gasket sealer to both sides of the seal and ensure the mating surfaces are clean dry. 

I'm going to make sure I have some gasket sealer as well, for this job.  

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15 minutes ago, Ben500RR-S said:

I'm going to make sure I have some gasket sealer as well, for this job.  

Trust me its kind of a bitch in the last moments before slipping the valve cover down for the last time, yes I did a trial assembly, but I was working on a cold garage floor. Today I have a motorcycle lift and having it abreast with my chest would allow me to see better where the sealer was missing.

Even taking the top engine mount completely off, moving the harness and cables you have some tight quarters to work in/on. BTW its easier to adjust the valves than to successfully remove and install the cover.

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1 hour ago, Ben500RR-S said:

I'm going to make sure I have some gasket sealer as well, for this job.  

just a dab will do you, any RTV rated for oil. Just a little dab on the halfmoon side of the gaskets, I used my finger to smear a light coating on the moon parts then gave the gasket 15 minutes to cure a little before installing the gasket. 

you don't want to over due it and squeeze rtv into the cam area to break off and clog things. 

Edited by rharr
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Thank you rharr and Marco.  You had both saved me some time and headache.  

I bought a Torx security bit set for like $16 or 17 online.  It was the T-30 security Torx for the one valve cover bolt at the 7 O'Clock position when sitting on the bike and looking down at the valve cover.  A couple of the valve cover bolts were fiddly to get the allen wrench on as there is not much space to turn the wrench but some patience and they all come off pretty  easy. 

 

At first, I had started to take the top-rear engine stays off but could not get the lowest bolt/nut to turn as I could not get the socket to fit well on the gearshift-side nut and it was all the better as I had realized that 2 bolts gets the radiator loose and 2 more bolts gets the ignition coil free and the valve cover will come forward and out with not much fuss. 

The gaskets themselves are easy to change. The four on the top of the valve cover are easy as is the spark plug gasket that has two locating rubber nubs on the gasket and the spark plug hole is not round but a strange shape so one can't really mess up getting the spark plug gasket in the correct orientation. 

I did get a new tube of Permatex Ultra gray Hi-Temp gasket sealer and put it on the half-moons, just as one had mentioned, as the factory had done it as I had taken off the bits of silicone from the factory and wiped everything as clean as possible before putting it all back together.  

A new spark plug, even though the one that was in was not too bad but it was good to change the plug as I think it is the 3rd plug I have replaced in the 400 hours I have on the engine/bike. Everything was put back together and the motor fired right back up.  I did have to fiddle with the throttle cable adjustment at the cam on the throttle body as the idle got raised but it was easy enough to back off the 10mm nut to get the slack back in the throttle cable.  

 

I'll now be looking forward to a cleaner gearshift-side engine head and cylinder.  

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On 11/21/2020 at 12:37 PM, Ben500RR-S said:

Thank you rharr and Marco.  You had both saved me some time and headache.  

I bought a Torx security bit set for like $16 or 17 online.  It was the T-30 security Torx for the one valve cover bolt at the 7 O'Clock position when sitting on the bike and looking down at the valve cover.  A couple of the valve cover bolts were fiddly to get the allen wrench on as there is not much space to turn the wrench but some patience and they all come off pretty  easy. 

 

At first, I had started to take the top-rear engine stays off but could not get the lowest bolt/nut to turn as I could not get the socket to fit well on the gearshift-side nut and it was all the better as I had realized that 2 bolts gets the radiator loose and 2 more bolts gets the ignition coil free and the valve cover will come forward and out with not much fuss. 

The gaskets themselves are easy to change. The four on the top of the valve cover are easy as is the spark plug gasket that has two locating rubber nubs on the gasket and the spark plug hole is not round but a strange shape so one can't really mess up getting the spark plug gasket in the correct orientation. 

I did get a new tube of Permatex Ultra gray Hi-Temp gasket sealer and put it on the half-moons, just as one had mentioned, as the factory had done it as I had taken off the bits of silicone from the factory and wiped everything as clean as possible before putting it all back together.  

A new spark plug, even though the one that was in was not too bad but it was good to change the plug as I think it is the 3rd plug I have replaced in the 400 hours I have on the engine/bike. Everything was put back together and the motor fired right back up.  I did have to fiddle with the throttle cable adjustment at the cam on the throttle body as the idle got raised but it was easy enough to back off the 10mm nut to get the slack back in the throttle cable.  

 

I'll now be looking forward to a cleaner gearshift-side engine head and cylinder.  

How was your valve clearance?

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18 hours ago, Marco the Pool Boy said:

How was your valve clearance?

I did not check the valve clearances.  

I have never checked them or had them checked and I now have over 415 hours.  

 

The engine has been running perfectly for going on 4 years this upcoming 02/22/2021.  

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I will be the 2017 500 RR-S guinea pig for how long this 477.5cc engine can keep me going, without needing to bother checking or touching the valves.  

 

I've made it 415 hours so far as I'm like a gnat on an elephants back with this bike/motor.  

 

Someone has to be the test subject/control for this experiment, I might as well be THE-one.  

Edited by Ben500RR-S
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....or just check the clearances before a valve gets sucked or burnt (more likely burnt) and the top end goes boom.  It's just odd you worry about a leaking gasket which has minimal impact to the function of a bike but ignore routine maintenance items that can cause serious problems if left un checked.  The beta motor might be a good motor but it's not immune to standard wear, valve wear being a standard wear thing. I hope you are right and it is fine.

 

I am not trying to be a dick here just don't want others to get sucked into some twisted maintenance is not needed mentality because beta motors are better then sliced bread thinking. 

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yeah. I can understand not wanting to get involved with adjusting the valves. but it's nothing to at least check them, especially since you already did the hard part of getting access.

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On 11/18/2020 at 9:06 PM, Marco the Pool Boy said:

BTW its easier to adjust the valves than to successfully remove and install the cover.

Absolutely true!!!

 

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19 hours ago, Ben500RR-S said:

I have never checked them or had them checked and I now have over 415 hours.  

Man, check your valves. Seriously!

Edited by severian

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I know y'll mean well and your intentions are pure and true and I appreciate it but, my motor is going to be a long-term Torture-Test. 

 

A "Let's see how long a 477.5cc Betamotor can go, without needing a new motor."  

 

Worst case, the valvetrain goes to hell and I need a new engine.  Provided they are still available from Betamotor, I"ll just have the bad parts replaced and let the good times roll.  

 

Let's see if I can get this bike/motor to 800 hours.  I'm doing my very best and I'll be the guy online with the Gen1 477.5 motor that has never checked his valves.  

 

"Place your bets.  Place your bets, here."  

 

 

 

Edited by Ben500RR-S

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I will wait, for hard starting and backfiring.  

The big benefit of the biggest motor is the ability to move pretty fast with very little strain on the motor.  

 

I'm like a tsetse fly on the back of an elephant.  

I'll check back in at 515 hours for sure.  

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