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CRF150F/L CRF 150F LED Light Bar Install ~ Warning Extreme Brightness!

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Thanks for the video. It does look super clean. The one suggestion that I'd make, unless I missed something, is to have some kind disconnect between the light and the switch. I don't take my number plate off very often but when I do, I need it completely out of the way. Like any kind of fork rebuild or if I just happened to tweak the forks and need to straighten them back up. Or a handlebar swap. I had to do this a few times on both a 150f and a 230f. They are basically the same bike. I needed the number plate off and out of the way both times.  The upper triple bolts are underneath the number plate on my 230's.  There is not nearly enough clearance to fit a socket, and definitely not a torque wrench.   Unless I missed it, it looks like the wire off the light is one piece that goes directly to the switch. Again, it looks like the light, plate and switch are all permanently connected together.  Am I wrong?  I get the watertight seal but I might just do waterproof butt connectors between the light and the switch.  Same as you'd find on the Ignition switch.

 

Edited by GavMac78

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11 hours ago, GavMac78 said:

Thanks for the video. It does look super clean. The one suggestion that I'd make, unless I missed something, is to have some kind disconnect between the light and the switch. I don't take my number plate off very often but when I do, I need it completely out of the way. Like any kind of fork rebuild or if I just happened to tweak the forks and need to straighten them back up. Or a handlebar swap. I had to do this a few times on both a 150f and a 230f. They are basically the same bike. I needed the number plate off and out of the way both times.  The upper triple bolts are underneath the number plate on my 230's.  There is not nearly enough clearance to fit a socket, and definitely not a torque wrench.   Unless I missed it, it looks like the wire off the light is one piece that goes directly to the switch. Again, it looks like the light, plate and switch are all permanently connected together.  Am I wrong?  I get the watertight seal but I might just do waterproof butt connectors between the light and the switch.  Same as you'd find on the Ignition switch.

 

Yes I wired it directly just to make it as clean as possible. If I had some high end connectors, I probably would have used them tho. Not a fan of bullet connectors. Theres enough wire to put the number plate aside if I need to service the front forks or triple trees.

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Nice neat install.

How many watts of power does it use?

Cycle Terminal has connectors.

I used a 6 LED bar on my XR, it has 2 spot LEDs and 4 flood LEDs, only 2 wires so no hi/lo.   It draws 23 watts so not much load on the XRs headlight system. It does throw a lot of light that I estimate at about 5-6 times more light than a XR 35watt headlight bulb.

1544313986_HeadlightLEDLightBar.thumb.jpg.117db8496c1e96a33a58a946c25f4c43.jpg

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10 hours ago, Chuck. said:

Nice neat install.

How many watts of power does it use?

Cycle Terminal has connectors.

I used a 6 LED bar on my XR, it has 2 spot LEDs and 4 flood LEDs, only 2 wires so no hi/lo.   It draws 23 watts so not much load on the XRs headlight system. It does throw a lot of light that I estimate at about 5-6 times more light than a XR 35watt headlight bulb.

1544313986_HeadlightLEDLightBar.thumb.jpg.117db8496c1e96a33a58a946c25f4c43.jpg

Very nice setup! Like the Spot / flood combo. My Rigid Flood is a 20w draw.

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On 1/9/2021 at 7:56 AM, Raztech Powersports said:

One note on the honda crf 150/230... if you leave the key on, it drains the battery... if only there was a power light or neutral light! Looks like I have another project!

Two options:
1. Build a circuit with a relay that only closes when the engine is running, the relay controls power from the battery to the light switch.
2. Begin only using the key switch to shut off the engine, only use the kill button for emergencies.

#2 will work with the 230 key switch which has 4 wires/2 circuits, one for ignition kill and one for power. I don't know if the 150 kill switch is the same.

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On 1/12/2021 at 10:41 AM, Chuck. said:

Two options:
1. Build a circuit with a relay that only closes when the engine is running, the relay controls power from the battery to the light switch.
2. Begin only using the key switch to shut off the engine, only use the kill button for emergencies.

#2 will work with the 230 key switch which has 4 wires/2 circuits, one for ignition kill and one for power. I don't know if the 150 kill switch is the same.

Yeah the kill button gets you because the bike is still “on” 🙃

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On 1/6/2021 at 5:21 PM, Chuck. said:

Nice neat install.

How many watts of power does it use?

Cycle Terminal has connectors.

I used a 6 LED bar on my XR, it has 2 spot LEDs and 4 flood LEDs, only 2 wires so no hi/lo.   It draws 23 watts so not much load on the XRs headlight system. It does throw a lot of light that I estimate at about 5-6 times more light than a XR 35watt headlight bulb.

1544313986_HeadlightLEDLightBar.thumb.jpg.117db8496c1e96a33a58a946c25f4c43.jpg

Hi Chuck. Where did you get this light bar. 

Also some 230s have a light system as std with power coming from the stator. Australian bike and others. Did you wire direct to battery. 

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From Amazon, search LED light bars for trucks. No linger avail but there are others, one smaller with 6 Crea LEDs.

It is on a XR200 with CRF150R forks so no battery. It is mounted to the number plate reinforced for the light and Tusk pack. I used a rectifier from a TRX250 and a capacitor, connected to the AC light circuit from the XR alternator. The RR connector, and others, are from Cycle Terminal (includes pins), and wire colors match Honda colors. The black wire is voltage sensing and is connected to the red wire. The capacitor is needed to filter noise out of the system so the RR can properly regulate (battery substitute). This one is 10,000mfd at 50 volt, from ebay.  The reinforcements are from the aluminum of a bat wing RV TV antenna, a light and stiff alloy with prebent flanges and easy to cut with wood tools (I used a miter saw).

951315073_LEDHeadlight(2).jpg.7d926d99202b8e2eac896345c79db232.jpg

Honda wire colors:
Green = ground
Red = unswitched hot (battery)
Black = switched hot. The TRX RR voltage sensing wire connected to the ignition switch so it is black.
Yellow = AC from alternator.

The LED power goes thru a handle bar switch.

 

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