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Stupid question... QUICK fork oil change 19 rmz 450 SHOWA

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can I pull the forks off and just undo the top can and squish out the fluid holding it upside-down? want to change fluid weight. 

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No ,it's 2 chambers 

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1 hour ago, mog said:

No ,it's 2 chambers 

So is the problem w this method that there will be residual oil left over inside? It’s new fluid that’s in it but want to go up to a 10wt for some increased dampening

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You have to disassemble and bleed unless you only change the outer fluid for more bottoming resistance

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35 minutes ago, mog said:

You have to disassemble and bleed unless you only change the outer fluid for more bottoming resistance

Do I need any special tools specific to the showa to complete this? I have a 50mm wrench for the top and the slit plate tool for the bottom off the kybs ive changed springs on. just pull the cartridge out like on the kyb similar processionals assume and then just pump the fluid out then assemble and refill?

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14 minutes ago, DEATH_INC. said:

Um, once you have the cartridge apart why wouldn't you just re-valve instead of changing oil weight? You'll most likely get better results.

Its a backup bike for me and I might only ride it a few more times. its been revalved once but im faster now and running it maxed out compression. going thicker viscosity is going to be the cheap easy fix. already have the fluid. just need another 5clicks would do the trick. do I need to disassemble the cartridge or just pull it out?

 

Edited by GCBC

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IMO changing the viscosity in the outer tubes only won't change much dampening wise

but, altering the volume's amount will change the progression in the last 1/3rd of the travel.

 

Apart from the specific cap wrench and other fasteners sizes,

servicing your Showa forks will be very similar to this:

 

 

Edited by mlatour
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changing the weight of the oil won't make much difference......

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12 minutes ago, Budlite said:

changing the weight of the oil won't make much difference......

going from 5wt to 2.5wt made a large difference on the kyb's

changed nothing else 

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A 10wt will add a lot of damping in the inner and outer chamber 

 

 

Look up utube videos ,they are the same as any twin chamber fork

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11 hours ago, mog said:

A 10wt will add a lot of damping in the inner and outer chamber 

 

 

Look up utube videos ,they are the same as any twin chamber fork

That's not what Restackor says. This is doubling the cst rating;

1817946505_forkoil2.jpg.7cbe3d46ce1ea5d6a8992f29a8961ed6.jpg1278280461_forkoil.jpg.525e9339492a8c4b1e7b1c7682ec6f19.jpg

Though that of course isn't the outer, which only really effects bottoming.

Now, having said this, I did once put 10wt in My ZX10 (long story...) forks, and it was nearly unrideable. But you must remember a roadbike has much heavier stacks, so the effect on the bleed circuits are more pronounced. It was only really the brake dive it noticeably affected. I did also only ride it for 5 minutes before draining it back out.

When I changed from 5wt to Dextron (around 7wt) in the Husky there was practically no difference. :excuseme:

 

Edited by DEATH_INC.

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Rather than using restackor you need to try it 

It makes a big difference 

 

Look at the damping co efficient at low speeds ,it's a huge increase

Edited by mog

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5 hours ago, mog said:

Rather than using restackor you need to try it 

It makes a big difference 

 

Look at the damping co efficient at low speeds ,it's a huge increase

Did you read the bit where I said I had put it in My old roadbike? It did stiffen the very low speed compression, way too much. when you grabbed the brake it didn't dive straight away, it was quite dangerous. But it still absorbed bumps much the same.

Those low speeds are no doubt the orifices, before the stack really cracks open, which thicker fluid will of course change.

Be interesting to see some dyno curves to compare to the Restackor ones.

I still don't get why when He (the op) will have the stack in his hand you wouldn't just shuffle a couple of shims. As easy as going up a size or 2 on the pivot/clamp. :excuseme: If the oil does indeed stiffen it up, it's gonna stiffen up the rebound too, not just the compression.

But whatever, not My bike.

Edited by DEATH_INC.

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Most are not confidant to change shims 

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On 1/18/2021 at 12:12 PM, GCBC said:

can I pull the forks off and just undo the top can and squish out the fluid holding it upside-down? want to change fluid weight. 

You got a newer bike.  Do it right.

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