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Hey forum,

 

:Just picked up a Honda 1979 XR185 for 300$ and I got some work on my hands, I'm looking for some advice on one of the many problems. 

The carb needs a rebuild or replacement,

I'm not sure if its better: Extract the pilot jet the broke off from previous owner, purchase a rebuild kit, and rebuild. Or buy a cost affective Chinese carb that fits... My question is which is more cost affective, and if I did go the Chinese route would the carb work correctly with this year? I live in Canada so shipping will be expensive. 

 

thanks guys!

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Do you have the other part? The reason I ask is some of the XLs, and some XRs, supposedly had a press in pilot jet. If it is screwed in than a screw extractor could be used to remove it, avail at Home Depot and others. There have been posts on converting the press in to screw in.
JetsRUs has all of the jets, I suggest genuine Kehin.
Any XR200/R carb will fit and work, just use jets listed for that model of carb.
These carbs come up on ebay  as do rebuild kits, I've used the rebuild kits except for the jets because they are not genuine Keihin. My jetting data lifted from Clymers, Honda Service manuals, and others:

 

Stock jetting from Clymers & Honda except as noted:
Year/model …...... Carb ….. main .. pilot …. clip … initial mixture…..
79 XR185…  …… PD31A   . 115 …. Na … .. 4th …  2 1/4 turns out…
81-83 XL185S…. PD13B….. 102…. 38 …………………………….. per OSA
80-84 XR200….. PD32A … 102 ….35 … … 3rd … 1 3/4 turns out…May be press in pilot.
81-83 XR200R .. PD28A …. 138 … 38 …… 4th .… 2 1/2 turns out.…35P in ’82
83-84 XL200R …PD61A … 100 …. Na  ….. 3rd …. 1 1/4 turns out…per Clymer
83-84 XL200R …PD61A … 100 …. 40 … .. 3rd …. 1 1/4 turns out… float 14mm- per OSA
86-87 TLR200 … PD07A ….. 92 …. 38 …... 3rd …. 1 3/4 turns out…Small bore
86 XR200R …..... PD97A …. 112 …. 38 …... 2nd … 1 1/8 turns out…
87+ XR200R …... PD97A … 110 ….. 38 ….. 3rd …. 1 1/8 turns out….
98+ XR200R CA  PD97B .… 102 ….. 35 …... 3rd …. 1 7/8 turns out….

You can strip down the carb and put it into hot water with about 1/8 volume of vinegar, on a hot stove to simmer for about 20 minutes to clean up and brighten the carb body. Also hot water in a sonic cleaner also works but won't remove the corrosion without some vinegar.

Mixture screw assembly is screw, spring, washer, O ring. And the O rings tend to stick in the carb when removing the mixture screw, search with a light, can be removed with compressed air or a dental pick. Be careful because the little O ring and washer can disappear to be never found.

Good luck.

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Whpi

2 hours ago, Chuck. said:

Do you have the other part? The reason I ask is some of the XLs, and some XRs, supposedly had a press in pilot jet. If it is screwed in than a screw extractor could be used to remove it, avail at Home Depot and others. There have been posts on converting the press in to screw in.
JetsRUs has all of the jets, I suggest genuine Kehin.
Any XR200/R carb will fit and work, just use jets listed for that model of carb.
These carbs come up on ebay  as do rebuild kits, I've used the rebuild kits except for the jets because they are not genuine Keihin. My jetting data lifted from Clymers, Honda Service manuals, and others:

 

Stock jetting from Clymers & Honda except as noted:
Year/model …...... Carb ….. main .. pilot …. clip … initial mixture…..
79 XR185…  …… PD31A   . 115 …. Na … .. 4th …  2 1/4 turns out…
81-83 XL185S…. PD13B….. 102…. 38 …………………………….. per OSA
80-84 XR200….. PD32A … 102 ….35 … … 3rd … 1 3/4 turns out…May be press in pilot.
81-83 XR200R .. PD28A …. 138 … 38 …… 4th .… 2 1/2 turns out.…35P in ’82
83-84 XL200R …PD61A … 100 …. Na  ….. 3rd …. 1 1/4 turns out…per Clymer
83-84 XL200R …PD61A … 100 …. 40 … .. 3rd …. 1 1/4 turns out… float 14mm- per OSA
86-87 TLR200 … PD07A ….. 92 …. 38 …... 3rd …. 1 3/4 turns out…Small bore
86 XR200R …..... PD97A …. 112 …. 38 …... 2nd … 1 1/8 turns out…
87+ XR200R …... PD97A … 110 ….. 38 ….. 3rd …. 1 1/8 turns out….
98+ XR200R CA  PD97B .… 102 ….. 35 …... 3rd …. 1 7/8 turns out….

You can strip down the carb and put it into hot water with about 1/8 volume of vinegar, on a hot stove to simmer for about 20 minutes to clean up and brighten the carb body. Also hot water in a sonic cleaner also works but won't remove the corrosion without some vinegar.

Mixture screw assembly is screw, spring, washer, O ring. And the O rings tend to stick in the carb when removing the mixture screw, search with a light, can be removed with compressed air or a dental pick. Be careful because the little O ring and washer can disappear to be never found.

Good 

I have the everything expect float pin, float vaule, and the jet thats broken has threads but obviously will need to be replaced. Do you think a knock off one would work just as good? Or is rebuilding it a better idea for the correcting running order? Also where did you buy the manufacturers jets?

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I don't like the Chinese knock offs because of typical poor Chinese quality and unmarked jets.  So you install it and it doesn't run right, what are you going to do? How do you establish baseline jetting so you know what sizes to install?

There are threads on this and the 230 forum about using Chinese carbs, some good, some bad.

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So do you have any links to the correct idle jet to start with rebuilding the factory carb, is the jet sizes you gave are main jets correct?

Edited by Simon K

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8 hours ago, Simon K said:

So do you have any links to the correct idle jet to start with rebuilding the factory carb, is the jet sizes you gave are main jets correct?

Chuck gave you main jet and pilot jet sizes (pilot is idle jet) See if you can id the carb and if it is the carb with press in jet try converting it to 38 pilot like the XL185 and see how that works as a starting point.

Edited by bimbamboom

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The first 5 digits of the carb number IDs it enough to know what model bike it was intended for so please check it.
Also, if possible, post up the numbers of the 2 jets, and if they have the Keihin "K" star logo.  Also the needle number, but you'll probably need a magnifying glass and light to read the needle number. It is just below the grooves and goes around the needle.

The above will help TT members provide more accurate recommendations.

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