Jump to content

yz250


Recommended Posts

So I bought a 16 yz 250 off a friend got a good deal we were certain it was an x but I ran the vin and appears its a moto bike. Seems like its set up to be an x has side stand and 18 rear wheel. Not sure if anyone else can help identify what all or was changed? Would i be better off to sell and buy an x?      As far as I know it has full fmf exhaust a granly pipe and shorty silencer v force reeds has aftermarket hubs it appears and don't know anything else really internal..

IMG_20210104_165906_259.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, smirmeister said:

Could be the angle of the photo but the plastics seem off, does it have a restyle kit?

Is the stand aftermarket or OEM?

No idea about the plastics they are all banged up though no stickers really. I figured I'll run it this year like this and next year do new plastics and graphics. It is an aftermarket stand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do a quick search of this forum.  There are a couple of threads describing how to convert to X specs and will list out every change.   The gist of the changes are softer valving in the suspension, 18" rear wheel, kickstand, and some motor changes.  The basic motor changes to make it more tractable in the woods.  Lowered compression, different ECU (you can just retard the ignition yourself), power valve timing (different spring), and easier clutch pull (softer springs.)  The big one is the taller 3rd-5th gears.  If you aren't riding out west in wide open spaces, I frankly don't think it's critical.  3rd if very close to the same, 4th slightly taller, and 5th like an overdrive (big difference.)  

Not a complete list, but the big stuff.  You can do as much or as little as you want after doing some more reading online about the difference.  

  • Helpful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

from this angle, doesnt look like stock yamaha kickstand as it looks black.  also has a hole shot device on forks, not common on a woods / offroad race bike.  being aftermarket wheels and a 51 rear sprocket (not stock) my guess is the person tried to make a X model

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, J Michael said:

The X should have a factory welded kickstand mount on the frame.  It's not a bolt on device. A converted moto bike would have a bolt-on aftermarket kickstand.

False.  It is not welded to frame.  The kickstand connection is part of stock peg mount that is bolted to frame

 

 

524A4552-E910-4198-A273-3EE072948A1B.jpeg

  • Helpful 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, JMundy said:

False.  It is not welded to frame.  The kickstand connection is part of stock peg mount that is bolted to frame

 

 

524A4552-E910-4198-A273-3EE072948A1B.jpeg

Scuze me !  I'm sure that you are right, about how it attaches.  My son has a '16 YZ250X, and I did not realize that the peg and stand used the same bracket.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, J Michael said:

Scuze me !  I'm sure that you are right, about how it attaches.  My son has a '16 YZ250X, and I did not realize that the peg and stand used the same bracket.

Just showing that if yours is welded, it isn’t correct

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/26/2021 at 1:34 PM, fordboosted17 said:

Would i be better off to sell and buy an x? 

Well it's got red hubs, but if you can cope with that, and it's mechanically healthy, then you should keep it.

To make the bike better in the bush:

Motor: Swap the cylinder base gasket from stock 0.6mm to a 0.2 and get a machinist to increase the head dome volume by 1.5cc. This allows the motor to come onto the pipe at much lower RPMs, but it'll still rev a long way. Also for better part throttle response, switch to the Suzuki NECK needle (same clip as used with the Yam needle but come down 3 sizes on the main jet and 2 sizes on the pilot).

Suspension: Stock MX can be pretty plush with clickers out, and shock HSC nut. But the real fix requires a softer fork mid valve and a softer shock comp adjuster (base) valve setting.  Super easy to do yourself if you are interested.

Are you sure that rear rim is an 18" ?  An 18 rear is a lot better for off-road.  Probably better for lots of rough MX too with a suitable 18" MX tire.

I'm 5'9" and I loath low dip seats on YZs because it's too much leg work to go from sitting to standing and when sitting the bars feel like ape hangers. Much prefer a flatter seat, and if the rear is a bit high, then I file the lower subframe mount hole oval 5mm to lower the rear of the seat about 10mm. Works great.

Edited by numroe
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, fordboosted17 said:

I figured I'll run it this year like this and next year do new plastics and graphics.

I would not be getting new plastics just yet, for off-road.  Replace as they get trashed. Or after too many zip-tie crack repairs.

A tugger rear lift strap is a good investment if you do technical trails.

Some light but strong wrap-around hand guards are essential in my opinion. Same goes for a chunky plastic acerbis chain guide. The alum stockers are pretty useless for rutted or rocky stuff.

Hey, new tires are nice...

On the front, I'm a big fan of the Bridgestone X20, in the fat 90 size for rough trails. The X20 works unreal on a huge range of soft to medium ground and it's ok on hard. The X20 never chucks side knobs either.   For hard terrain and rocks, the X40 front is awesome.  Bridgestone X30 intermediate terrain front tire  does not do it for me. Bridgestone fronts wear slowly and perform well. Awesome for MX too, in the usual 80 width.  I've tried lots of brands and types on the front.  

On the rear for medium-hard trails, I think the Shinko R505 cheater is awesome in the big 120 size for an 18" rim. For soft terrain on the rear 18" I'm still undecided. The MX tires don't last long on crappy soft trails, so I want to try the IRC M5BR 110-18.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, numroe said:

I would not be getting new plastics just yet, for off-road.  Replace as they get trashed. Or after too many zip-tie crack repairs.

A tugger rear lift strap is a good investment if you do technical trails.

Some light but strong wrap-around hand guards are essential in my opinion. Same goes for a chunky plastic acerbis chain guide. The alum stockers are pretty useless for rutted or rocky stuff.

Hey, new tires are nice...

On the front, I'm a big fan of the Bridgestone X20, in the fat 90 size for rough trails. The X20 works unreal on a huge range of soft to medium ground and it's ok on hard. The X20 never chucks side knobs either.   For hard terrain and rocks, the X40 front is awesome.  Bridgestone X30 intermediate terrain front tire  does not do it for me. Bridgestone fronts wear slowly and perform well. Awesome for MX too, in the usual 80 width.  I've tried lots of brands and types on the front.  

On the rear for medium-hard trails, I think the Shinko R505 cheater is awesome in the big 120 size for an 18" rim. For soft terrain on the rear 18" I'm still undecided. The MX tires don't last long on crappy soft trails, so I want to try the IRC M5BR 110-18.

Thanks man I appreciate all your expertise here I will look into it all. When I get home I will double check the rear rim size.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...