Jump to content
Hannibal Babar

Beta4Stroke front wheel centered....

Recommended Posts

6 minutes ago, randy450r said:

Thanks ! I have seen these.

post up review in a month to see any improvement. 

Might be longer than a month,  currently knee-deep in snow😬

i’ve have use these on other bikes but limited applications available

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SKF kit, enough grease to fill the space between the axel and spacer, and maybe more frequent wheel removals.  Mine come off fairly often so I have never had this issue.  The SKF kit is a fantastic product.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, GP said:

SKF kit, enough grease to fill the space between the axel and spacer, and maybe more frequent wheel removals.  Mine come off fairly often so I have never had this issue.  The SKF kit is a fantastic product.

Yeah I’m thinking pulling the wheel in between tire changes just to keep an eye on the issue. Seems like a lot of corrosion for 40 hours of use. 
Surprisingly bearings were fine but replaced anyways

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hello again !  Thanks to guys who pointed me to the wheel lacing.. I double checked everything this morning, and discovred that, in fact,  lacing has lot of "umbrella" offset on the left side...

Restart spokes tension from scratch and now all is good 💫

Quote

.

Don't know if it was untentional, due to a mono brake only on left side, to help against  twisting braking  torque ? or just joy to get  usual shit from a  second hand bike....:(

have nice rides as long as covid party doesn't end all us in closed boxes :(

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/19/2021 at 4:13 PM, Motobum416 said:

FYI, i had bad luck with those spacers, gave them a try a few years back, installed with fresh bearings and seals. they wore out in half a season, deep gouges, and let water in pretty bad. they also trapped sediment and thin grasses behind the 'face'.

SKF kit has been the best i've used to date.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, typeone said:

FYI, i had bad luck with those spacers, gave them a try a few years back, installed with fresh bearings and seals. they wore out in half a season, deep gouges, and let water in pretty bad. they also trapped sediment and thin grasses behind the 'face'.

SKF kit has been the best i've used to date.

I noticed when they arrived they do appear to be quite thin. 
Planning on getting them hardcoated with my fork tubes and see if that makes a difference. 
In hindsight I should’ve gone with the SKF kit but I’ve only found part numbers for the front spacer kit, nothing available for the rear

Edited by Motobum416
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never thought much about changing out front axle wheeling bearings. But with water Corrosion maybe I’ll think about it. I assume best way to tell if bad is spin the wheel for resistance and noise? Any other suggestions?

 

Edited by randy450r

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, randy450r said:

Never thought much about changing out front axle wheeling bearings. But with water Corrosion maybe I’ll think about it. I assume best way to tell if bad is spin the wheel for resistance and noise? Any other suggestions?

 

It's pretty easy to check wheel bearings. Remove the wheel, remove the spacers, and remove the lip seals. Take your fingers and rotate the bearing. If it's smooth, it's good. If there is resistance, that's probably still good. However, feeling knotchy like there's sand inside is bad. You don't want it to feel like it's all bumpy inside. If you get a gritty feeling, then it's time to change your bearing. If it's good, put some good grease in the lip seal and button everything back up.

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Motobum416 said:

I noticed when they arrived they do appear to be quite thin. 
Planning on getting them hardcoated with my fork tubes and see if that makes a difference. 
In hindsight I should’ve gone with the SKF kit but I’ve only found part numbers for the front spacer kit, nothing available for the rear

nice on hardcoat, def will be an improvement ... if you do end up looking for the SKF kits again, Mark at Adventure Off-Road Beta down in TN has them in stock. good dude.

https://adventureoffroad.us/

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/18/2021 at 7:09 AM, firffighter said:

Wonder how all of those forks were before the MP tool? 

 

 

On 2/18/2021 at 7:15 PM, firffighter said:

How do you know you're on Beta TT forum? 

When there's 2 pages of front wheel alignment arguments. 🤣

I wonder how far I could have ridden in the time I read all that stuff. Don't forget, like Hannibal Babar I am not a native speaker so I probably need double the time to understand all that BS 🤠
As long as the wheel doesn't move from one side to the other who cares? In 40+ years I never needed a tool to align forks and I serviced bikes that did 190mph on the TT race. It's a darn dirt bike, go and ride...

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Doc Brown said:

 

I wonder how far I could have ridden in the time I read all that stuff. Don't forget, like Hannibal Babar I am not a native speaker so I probably need double the time to understand all that BS 🤠
As long as the wheel doesn't move from one side to the other who cares? In 40+ years I never needed a tool to align forks and I serviced bikes that did 190mph on the TT race. It's a darn dirt bike, go and ride...

well my only preocupation came from having bought a second hand bike. So just  want to know what is correct or wrong, and then decide to give it a f;;;k or ride it like it is...

in this case, wheel  was laced a little "umbrella" offset on left.  now all good.. let's chase some new suprises.... Always same dilemna : buy a trashy bike and rebuild it from scratch or a more fresh one, which, thanks to dishonnest sellers, has always hidden things....  If someone can confirm that the Beta ECU memorizes hours of run ? Thanks. THey just didn't find any infos about hours when I made my ecu reflashed...

Edited by Hannibal Babar
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, pscook said:

It's pretty easy to check wheel bearings. Remove the wheel, remove the spacers, and remove the lip seals. Take your fingers and rotate the bearing. If it's smooth, it's good. If there is resistance, that's probably still good. However, feeling knotchy like there's sand inside is bad. You don't want it to feel like it's all bumpy inside. If you get a gritty feeling, then it's time to change your bearing. If it's good, put some good grease in the lip seal and button everything back up.

FIY and it's gonna make a lot react ( but who cares) LIthium grease is the worst grease concerning water resistance. It just likes water, suck it like a catholic girl ( as sang Frank Zappa 🙂 ) Additives prevent it, but when they are gone, they are...gone...   


I made test on front bearings during a 12 000 km long trip. Guess hat ? one month of non stop rain !! (murphy's law I presume): one side with graphite , another with lithium . Lithium was a mess, a sort of cream, graphite was  brand new. Graphite grease is the only one  that, when all grease is gone, you still have graphite anti wear.  (will try to find and post photo of them)

But I can understand why they don't use it in motorbikes, as it's so dirty, going everywhere and your fingers becoming zombies ones for weeks.... I use graphite inside bearing, and hydraulic red oil , outside (neutral for seals ) . After one year of use, seems to me to be the win win combination.

I once lubricate steering bearings with graphite... Bad idea;  so free move ( even with more constraint) that bike had very fast shimmy. live and learn 🙂

Grease topic is NOT an oil topic ( thanks) . Everyone can make simple tests and choose what best for him. 

I'm using now hydraulic non petrol based red grease for many parts. Makes miracles on water hoses, (giving them back flexibility )admission hose, etc.. All parts rubberised, and even on plastic sheats cables where they tend to become rigid. ok, sorry, another topic 😉   
 

After some nasty sand rides in mines, i pulled out front brake to clean it, and used this hydraulic grease for the pistons o -rings. Really smooth  difference on brake use....

 

*sorry doc brown, long post again, but I type fast 😉  Guten Tag Ihnen !!!!

update : forgot to mention that lithium is a plastic and rubber killer....

Edited by Hannibal Babar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What makes alignment more critical with regard to Beta is the tendency of the Sachs forks to consume themselves far more than other brands.  When you experience this and have to correct it, you can reread this and other relative threads and rethink things.  It really cracks me up how you self professed expert mechanics scoff at a sound, basic concept just because you have not done it that way.   

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Hannibal Babar said:

FIY and it's gonna make a lot react ( but who cares) LIthium grease is the worst grease concerning water resistance. It just likes water, suck it like a catholic girl ( as sang Frank Zappa 🙂 ) Additives prevent it, but when they are gone, they are...gone...   


I made test on front bearings during a 12 000 km long trip. Guess hat ? one month of non stop rain !! (murphy's law I presume): one side with graphite , another with lithium . Lithium was a mess, a sort of cream, graphite was  brand new. Graphite grease is the only one  that, when all grease is gone, you still have graphite anti wear.  (will try to find and post photo of them)

But I can understand why they don't use it in motorbikes, as it's so dirty, going everywhere and your fingers becoming zombies ones for weeks.... I use graphite inside bearing, and hydraulic red oil , outside (neutral for seals ) . After one year of use, seems to me to be the win win combination.

I once lubricate steering bearings with graphite... Bad idea;  so free move ( even with more constraint) that bike had very fast shimmy. live and learn 🙂

Grease topic is NOT an oil topic ( thanks) . Everyone can make simple tests and choose what best for him. 

I'm using now hydraulic non petrol based red grease for many parts. Makes miracles on water hoses, (giving them back flexibility )admission hose, etc.. All parts rubberised, and even on plastic sheats cables where they tend to become rigid. ok, sorry, another topic 😉   
 

After some nasty sand rides in mines, i pulled out front brake to clean it, and used this hydraulic grease for the pistons o -rings. Really smooth  difference on brake use....

 

*sorry doc brown, long post again, but I type fast 😉  Guten Tag Ihnen !!!!

update : forgot to mention that lithium is a plastic and rubber killer....

No problem Hannibal, une bonne journée for you too. Well, drifiting away from forks. I don't like either grease you mention and would strongly recommend to use marine grease which is waterproof, more or less. I use either a blue one but don't know the brand or I use a green one from Lucas Oil called X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease which is wash out proof and can be used for all bearings except those inside the engine.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wonderful thread, full of good tips. As I continue learning how to do all of my own maintenance, threads like this make me smile.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I regularly build and true/fix mountain bike wheels and would like to true my front wheel to get rid of this issue. 

For anyone that has adjusted the dish to bias more centered / away from the brake side - what spoke wrench do you use? I think there may be one in the tool kit from Beta but I'm used to using ones like this for mountain bike wheels (and I'm wondering if there's something similar in the dirt bike world that permits full turns vs. incremental turns):

709263768_spokewrench.png.a28be6d24ede7f741057a02828a35483.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×
×
  • Create New...