2017 yz250 clutch

[Desert21x]

I have a 2017 Yz250 that is having clutch issues. The issue doesn't start until the motor is completely warm. The clutch seems to get stuck and won't disengage for a second or 2 after coming to a complete stop. Once it finally disengages it seems to jerk forward pretty harshly. I pulled the clutch out and the friction plates are still in spec. I was told it could potentially be the basket but wanted to jump on here and get some more info or see if anyone has had this issue before I put a complete new basket in the bike. This issue doesn't seem to happen while riding, only after coming to a complete stop and then trying to go again.

[Kinger317]

 Is something binding up on the actuator, pushrod, cable, or lever?  What does the basket look like?  Hard to believe the actuator or basket would be worn out on a 2017 but I would check both.

[Randy300XC]

Check the steel plates to see if warped and if the springs are soft from over heating. 

[Desert21x]

Nothing seems to be binding, the clutch seems to work really well still when I'm riding. The issue only occurs once I come to a complete stop and then get going again. No sort slipping or anything in the clutch while riding. All plates and springs are in spec

[Kinger317]

 How does the basket look?  When you pull the lever all the way into the grip and then release does it release normal or hesitate? 

[cereal killer]

Sounds most like a basket issue. It's a pretty quick job to pull off the clutch cover, unscrew the springs from the hub and pull out the plates to check the basket fingers. 

But, I want to make sure I understand the problem. When fully warm, you pull in the clutch lever and come to a stop - it's normal so far - then when you release the lever to take off again your bike doesn't move for a second or two before suddenly lurching forward?

[Desert21x]

basket look fine, obviously a little grooving but nothing concerning. Cereal Killer, you are exactly correct

[cereal killer]

If you pull the clutch lever with the cover off, does it snap back smoothly when you let go?

Warped steel discs maybe. That seems extreme. 

Did you check the hub while the discs were out?

What about, with the pressure plate off, twist the clutch arm with your fingers and push the pushrod back in with a screwdriver - does it go both ways smoothly?

[john stu]

How did your oil look? it's not milky is it? like there is water in the oil?

[Desert21x]

3 hours ago, cereal killer said:

If you pull the clutch lever with the cover off, does it snap back smoothly when you let go?

Warped steel discs maybe. That seems extreme. 

Did you check the hub while the discs were out?

What about, with the pressure plate off, twist the clutch arm with your fingers and push the pushrod back in with a screwdriver - does it go both ways smoothly?

I have not pulled the hub or basket out, they seemed to spin pretty freely when the plates were out. All the plates look great and are in spec. I will try a couple of these things and get back to y’all. Thanks!

[Desert21x]

2 hours ago, john stu said:

How did your oil look? it's not milky is it? like there is water in the oil?

Oil looks perfectly fine. It’s changed every 5-8 hours. I know it’s not getting water or anything in there

[MANIAC998]

8 hours ago, Desert21x said:

Oil looks perfectly fine. It’s changed every 5-8 hours. I know it’s not getting water or anything in there

What type of oil? Some oils are more "sticky" than others. It's a long shot, but......................................................................................

[cereal killer]

13 hours ago, Desert21x said:

I have not pulled the hub or basket out, they seemed to spin pretty freely when the plates were out. All the plates look great and are in spec. I will try a couple of these things and get back to y’all. Thanks!

Just FYI you don't need to pull the hub off to check it. Just look at the grooves where the drive plates sit and see if they're notched just like you would for the basket. Basket usually notches worse than the hub, but the hub could cause the steel discs to hang up too. 

Lay the steel discs down on something flat (like a piece of glass) while they are out. I struggle to think they could be so warped as to cause the problem you describe, but that's something simple to rule out. 

Might be worth pulling the push rod out too. It wouldn't be the issue unless REALLY badly deformed, but worth checking for deformation, scoring, burning etc. Make sure the clutch arm is moving freely too. 

[Desert21x]

9 hours ago, MANIAC998 said:

What type of oil? Some oils are more "sticky" than others. It's a long shot, but......................................................................................

Bel ray gear saver 80w

[Desert21x]

3 hours ago, cereal killer said:

Just FYI you don't need to pull the hub off to check it. Just look at the grooves where the drive plates sit and see if they're notched just like you would for the basket. Basket usually notches worse than the hub, but the hub could cause the steel discs to hang up too. 

Lay the steel discs down on something flat (like a piece of glass) while they are out. I struggle to think they could be so warped as to cause the problem you describe, but that's something simple to rule out. 

Might be worth pulling the push rod out too. It wouldn't be the issue unless REALLY badly deformed, but worth checking for deformation, scoring, burning etc. Make sure the clutch arm is moving freely too. 

I'll try this out

[MitchPeters]

My 17 had a noisy grabby clutch. Replaced basket, inner hub and bearing and noise went away. Had to replace the pushrod to get it to start in gear. I would at least replace the bearing.