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This Friday I will be lucky enough to pick up a new Gas Gas EX300.  I have done a tone of reading here and I want to see if I am missing anything as I start my journey with this bike.

here is what I have gathered so far:

1. Be diligent on your starting process and let the bike warm up.

2.  Get a spare CCPS as soon as they become available.

3.  Power valve may need to be adjusted ( I have a red spring coming already).

4.  Be mindful if the bike is running to lean.

5.  Figure out what spark arrestor to use. New end cap or a new silencer.

6. Gas and go beyond that.

I am super stoked to be getting back on a 2 stroke again after many years of riding a 4 stroke.  Bike will mainly be used as a play bike, a little trail and a little track.

Is there anything I am missing?

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Just get the cylinder and head temp warm to touch. There is no fancy starting procedure.

Why do you need a red PV spring?

Stock silencer is fine unless legally you need an SA.

Bike shouldn’t run lean unless you add a bunch of parts that move more air.

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Posted (edited)

I personally think those YouTube Dirtbike channels (looking at you Kyle….) have blown the whole TPI starting/ warm up process way out of the water. I feel my brain turning to mush every time I hear about all these warmup procedures as if I’m getting ready to fly a 747. “YoU GoTtA WAiT TiLl ItS At 123.345C  beFoRe TuRnInG OfF ThE COLd StaRt KN-“ just turn the cold start knob on, fire it up and let it sit on the high idle for a minute, if it’s below 10C maybe a tad longer, shut it off and let it idle for another 45 seconds, get on it and go. As long as you’re not ripping the shit out of it, it’ll warm up and you’ll be good. I hate how complicated people try to make it these days. KTM knows what they’re doing with TPi now a days and you really shouldn’t stress about warm up. These are fantastic machines. 
 

 

you ordered a red spring and you haven’t even ridden it yet? They come stock with the yellow spring I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong) and it should be more than enough to get your bearings with the bike, if it isn’t hitting hard enough then the brass screw out a full turn and test again. Don’t just switch to the most aggressive spring as you’ll create more work for yourself, adjust the current spring outward until you desired power is completed, if it isn’t enough then switch.

 

if your dealer mapped your bike with the “extreme map” you shouldn’t have to worry about it running lean, if it had a stock map, you’ll also probably be fine. You can check the plug but there isn’t much you can do unless you get it mapped, also before you even consider sending the ECU out for “MoRe PoWeR” get 15-20 hours on the bike first and then decide. A nice slip on with a vented airbox would help bump the power up slightly and that’s relatively inexpensive compared to going with something like a different head/ecu flash. 
 

 

enjoy and ride safe 
 

 

 

Edited by TomTopDog12
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Is that last statement incorrect? I thought the extreme map is an option that increases the oiling levels back to earlier levels and it has nothing to do with it changing rich or lean fueling?

Edited by SlowDinoDog

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1 minute ago, SlowDinoDog said:

I thought the new map increases the oiling and has nothing to do with it changing rich or lean fueling?

New map? You mean the extreme map? All it does is increase fueling/oiling on cold start parameters. I haven’t heard of it altering AFR but my dealership told me the extreme map modified the entire ignition and fuelling tables. I didn’t ride my 300xc tpi long when it had the stock map as it blew up, but when I got it back It had the extreme map loaded on and it works well for my machine

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2 minutes ago, TomTopDog12 said:

New map? You mean the extreme map? All it does is increase fueling/oiling on cold start parameters. I haven’t heard of it altering AFR but my dealership told me the extreme map modified the entire ignition and fuelling tables. I didn’t ride my 300xc tpi long when it had the stock map as it blew up, but when I got it back It had the extreme map loaded on and it works well for my machine

I thought the extreme map only changes oiling... not fueling. It does not affect lean or rich fueling conditions?

Edited by SlowDinoDog
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Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, SlowDinoDog said:

I thought the extreme changes oiling... not fueling. It does not affect lean or rich fueling conditions.

Again, this is what my authorized KTM dealer told me, I don’t have a flashing tool to go in the ECU and compare tables, maybe someone on this forum does and can give us some insight but I don’t think it matters. I would bet that AFR values are extremely the same.  Stock 21s come with the standard map while KTMs also have the “extreme map” that can be flashed to your ECU, I was told it modifies the fuelling and oil tables richer while below 10c. That’s it.

 

 

cheers

Edited by TomTopDog12
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1 hour ago, TomTopDog12 said:

I personally think those YouTube Dirtbike channels (looking at you Kyle….) have blown the whole TPI starting/ warm up process way out of the water. I feel my brain turning to mush every time I hear about all these warmup procedures as if I’m getting ready to fly a 747. “YoU GoTtA WAiT TiLl ItS At 123.345C  beFoRe TuRnInG OfF ThE COLd StaRt KN-“ just turn the cold start knob on, fire it up and let it sit on the high idle for a minute, if it’s below 10C maybe a tad longer, shut it off and let it idle for another 45 seconds, get on it and go. As long as you’re not ripping the shit out of it, it’ll warm up and you’ll be good. I hate how complicated people try to make it these days. KTM knows what they’re doing with TPi now a days and you really shouldn’t stress about warm up. These are fantastic machines. 
 

 

you ordered a red spring and you haven’t even ridden it yet? They come stock with the yellow spring I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong) and it should be more than enough to get your bearings with the bike, if it isn’t hitting hard enough then the brass screw out a full turn and test again. Don’t just switch to the most aggressive spring as you’ll create more work for yourself, adjust the current spring outward until you desired power is completed, if it isn’t enough then switch.

 

if your dealer mapped your bike with the “extreme map” you shouldn’t have to worry about it running lean, if it had a stock map, you’ll also probably be fine. You can check the plug but there isn’t much you can do unless you get it mapped, also before you even consider sending the ECU out for “MoRe PoWeR” get 15-20 hours on the bike first and then decide. A nice slip on with a vented airbox would help bump the power up slightly and that’s relatively inexpensive compared to going with something like a different head/ecu flash. 
 

 

enjoy and ride safe 
 

 

 

The new map has the same fueling as 101 and 102. Just more oil, 44% more. 

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1 hour ago, TomTopDog12 said:

Again, this is what my authorized KTM dealer told me, I don’t have a flashing tool to go in the ECU and compare tables, maybe someone on this forum does and can give us some insight but I don’t think it matters. I would bet that AFR values are extremely the same.  Stock 21s come with the standard map while KTMs also have the “extreme map” that can be flashed to your ECU, I was told it modifies the fuelling and oil tables richer while below 10c. That’s it.

 

 

cheers

Most dealers are completely clueless about the products they sell. Take anything with a grain of salt. 

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49 minutes ago, ckny said:

Most dealers are completely clueless about the products they sell. Take anything with a grain of salt. 

I agree.  Always has always will.  Also agree about much todo about nothing.  Put gas in it and ride it.  If you have problems then we can talk, but you probably won’t and definitely won’t because of improper starting procedures. 

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7 hours ago, TomTopDog12 said:

I personally think those YouTube Dirtbike channels (looking at you Kyle….) have blown the whole TPI starting/ warm up process way out of the water. I feel my brain turning to mush every time I hear about all these warmup procedures as if I’m getting ready to fly a 747. “YoU GoTtA WAiT TiLl ItS At 123.345C  beFoRe TuRnInG OfF ThE COLd StaRt KN-“ just turn the cold start knob on, fire it up and let it sit on the high idle for a minute, if it’s below 10C maybe a tad longer, shut it off and let it idle for another 45 seconds, get on it and go. As long as you’re not ripping the shit out of it, it’ll warm up and you’ll be good. I hate how complicated people try to make it these days. KTM knows what they’re doing with TPi now a days and you really shouldn’t stress about warm up. These are fantastic machines. 
 

 

you ordered a red spring and you haven’t even ridden it yet? They come stock with the yellow spring I believe (someone correct me if I’m wrong) and it should be more than enough to get your bearings with the bike, if it isn’t hitting hard enough then the brass screw out a full turn and test again. Don’t just switch to the most aggressive spring as you’ll create more work for yourself, adjust the current spring outward until you desired power is completed, if it isn’t enough then switch.

 

if your dealer mapped your bike with the “extreme map” you shouldn’t have to worry about it running lean, if it had a stock map, you’ll also probably be fine. You can check the plug but there isn’t much you can do unless you get it mapped, also before you even consider sending the ECU out for “MoRe PoWeR” get 15-20 hours on the bike first and then decide. A nice slip on with a vented airbox would help bump the power up slightly and that’s relatively inexpensive compared to going with something like a different head/ecu flash. 
 

 

enjoy and ride safe 
 

 

 

Yeah I might be reading to much into the warm up procedure.  I am going to try the stock power valve setting to begin with and if I don't like it or can't adjust it to my liking then I will put the red spring in and tune from there.  I am also not going to go to map 103 right away.  The bike will have map 102 stock and I am going to run that and see how the plug looks.  I am always over thinking things.  Thanks all for your help.

 

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It doesn't matter which side your on keeping the cold start lever out and idling. The key here is not to blip the throttle while the motor is warming up. This IS a sure way to foul a plug. 

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On 4/29/2021 at 7:05 AM, TomTopDog12 said:

Again, this is what my authorized KTM dealer told me, I don’t have a flashing tool to go in the ECU and compare tables, maybe someone on this forum does and can give us some insight but I don’t think it matters.

Just FYI, someone on ktmtalk has dug into the flash files - maps 101, 102, and 103 all have the exact same fueling. 103 has the increased oil across the board. 102 likely has the increased oil during cold starts only. 

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2 hours ago, jrodicus100 said:

Just FYI, someone on ktmtalk has dug into the flash files - maps 101, 102, and 103 all have the exact same fueling. 103 has the increased oil across the board. 102 likely has the increased oil during cold starts only. 

Rich Horn. 

2 hours ago, jrodicus100 said:

Just FYI, someone on ktmtalk has dug into the flash files - maps 101, 102, and 103 all have the exact same fueling. 103 has the increased oil across the board. 102 likely has the increased oil during cold starts only. 

Stated above in an earlier post. 

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Anybody notice the extreme map leaving the bike kindve…bubbly in the mid range? I rode my 21 300xc last weekend and it was probably 13c with damp conditions after a good rainfall, the bike sounded loaded up until it was nice and hot and even then after some single track it would be a bit “bubbly” I checked the plug and it looks fantastic, on the richer side for sure but still great. I do however notice that no matter how “loaded up” / “bubbly” the mid range can be after tight single track/warm up ride. The bike doesn’t skip a beat when I hammer on it. No spooge either, wondering if anybody has had this with the extreme map

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43 minutes ago, TomTopDog12 said:

Anybody notice the extreme map leaving the bike kindve…bubbly in the mid range? I rode my 21 300xc last weekend and it was probably 13c with damp conditions after a good rainfall, the bike sounded loaded up until it was nice and hot and even then after some single track it would be a bit “bubbly” I checked the plug and it looks fantastic, on the richer side for sure but still great. I do however notice that no matter how “loaded up” / “bubbly” the mid range can be after tight single track/warm up ride. The bike doesn’t skip a beat when I hammer on it. No spooge either, wondering if anybody has had this with the extreme map

And you’re sure it’s happened right after the map change?   I don’t know which map I have but I’m heading to dealer in a week to see what I have and upload 103 map, but I’m super on the fence about it and your observations are part of the reason.  I use my bike on snow mostly so my throttle input is way higher than most folks, and the bike hardly uses any oil as it is.  But it runs great, and I put 100:1 in the fuel so I’m getting a little ring oil already, but I’m nervous to make any changes when the bike is seemingly happy.  They just consume so very little oil 

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7 hours ago, Hugh Jasoule said:

And you’re sure it’s happened right after the map change?   I don’t know which map I have but I’m heading to dealer in a week to see what I have and upload 103 map, but I’m super on the fence about it and your observations are part of the reason.  I use my bike on snow mostly so my throttle input is way higher than most folks, and the bike hardly uses any oil as it is.  But it runs great, and I put 100:1 in the fuel so I’m getting a little ring oil already, but I’m nervous to make any changes when the bike is seemingly happy.  They just consume so very little oil 

What are you worried about? Same fuel maps just more oil. My bike rips. Zero issues. 

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14 hours ago, TomTopDog12 said:

Anybody notice the extreme map leaving the bike kindve…bubbly in the mid range? I rode my 21 300xc last weekend and it was probably 13c with damp conditions after a good rainfall, the bike sounded loaded up until it was nice and hot and even then after some single track it would be a bit “bubbly” I checked the plug and it looks fantastic, on the richer side for sure but still great. I do however notice that no matter how “loaded up” / “bubbly” the mid range can be after tight single track/warm up ride. The bike doesn’t skip a beat when I hammer on it. No spooge either, wondering if anybody has had this with the extreme map

They are two strokes. They will never run as cleanly and efficiently as a four stroke. You have to periodically rev these oil suckers.

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49 minutes ago, SlowDinoDog said:

They are two strokes. They will never run as cleanly and efficiently as a four stroke. You have to periodically rev these oil suckers.

Yeah I’ve done about 35km of single track today and it’s cold and wet. It’s definitely bubbly but man it doesn’t skip a beat when you get in the pipe. Honestly would rather it run like this anyway

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