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Broken stud


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4 hours ago, Motox367 said:

150$ ?? dam lol 

Actually it’s $85 if they can bench it $150 if it’s still in the vehicle/frame. I snapped off my flywheel bolt in my ranger crankshaft and they buzzed that baby out for $150. Way cheaper than pulling out the crank

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4 hours ago, yamaharider250f said:

Got the stud out today. Lots of patience with a left hand drill bit and an extractor. I have new studs, tomorrow I'm picking up new gaskets and orings. I had a power valve cover bolt break as well. Any titanium upgrades out there for an 04?

Plenty of Titanium fasteners for any bike if you want to spend the coin. Just remember, dissimilar metals like to corrode, so always use an anti-seize on any fastener of dissimilar metal, (Stainless in Aluminum, Titanium in Aluminum, etc)

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I agree with putting a fender washer on it first as they are large and will prevent weld splatter on the cylinder and then a nut on the broken stud then weld the nut on, I’ve removed lots of these non broken studs and sometimes they can be tough to remove to the point that they might snap off at that point I soak them in penetrating fluid and heat up the area around the stud and spray a little more after heat and then they will turn out so any other way but welding might jeopardize getting it out 

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6 hours ago, yamaharider250f said:

Got the stud out today. Lots of patience with a left hand drill bit and an extractor. I have new studs, tomorrow I'm picking up new gaskets and orings. I had a power valve cover bolt break as well. Any titanium upgrades out there for an 04?

Niiiice bud. Bet your STOKED!!!

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Before welding a nut onto and rosette welding i'd take a nut, drill out removing threads as well opened up to just fit over the broken stud. In the lathe cut a shallow taper so the nut contacts the aluminum first near the stud and not the full face of the nut damaging the machined surface. Rosette weld, let cool while appling penetrating oil, wait overnight while applying low heat near the side by the stud expanding the aluminum before torquing it out.  I didn't see the ccondition of the other studs and if not looking like new i'd replace all of tjhem as mentioned above.......~~=o&o>.......

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16 hours ago, HSV-DirtRider said:

I see you removed the stud but I found this. This guy uses a copper pipe and a mig welder.  The pipe protects the surrounding area from the mig. Pretty cool.

 

 

Great video as well the person in it explaining his process. Years ago read an article with photos on Tig welding copper to stainless, ity can be done.....~~=o&o>.......

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On 6/9/2021 at 6:32 PM, yamaharider250f said:

New ones have been ordered. Any ideas on where to take it too? I was thinking the local engine builder.

Any local machine shop that's been around for awhile . It's a very simple job and one most machine shops do 2-20 times a week . 

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Is the barrel still on? Can’t tell. If so, barrel off and try again. If not, sorry. Be very careful with easy outs, if you snap one in the stud you would really struggle. I got one spark eroded once,  then drilled out and helicoil insert, seemed to work well.

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