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jesusmannen

Almost happy!

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I made my come back on the Mx track the other day. I’m riding my old crf250r 2009 that got a new bottom and top end..

I also revalved both shock and forks and was able to ride for longer time than I expected and I believe that is because of the plush and soft/softened suspension.

The only concern I have is the way forks soak up (or not) the sharp edges in entrance of corners (brake bumps) Fork uses all travel except for 4-5 cm after a round on my local track. In a couples of weeks I will surly use all the travel due to faster riding😉😉

 

Im a 45 yrs 75kgs slow b-rider.

Rear shock, spring 5.2 sag 108/32 (also revalved, a tad softer on comp)

fork springs 0.42

350cc 5w maxima

 

Shims stack

18 - 31 x 0.10 (removed 7, 25 std)

29 x 0.10

27 x 0.10

25 x 0.10

23 x 0.10

22 x 0.10

21 x 0.10

20 x 0.10

19 x 0.10

18 x 0.10

17 x 0.10

2 - 16 x 0.10

16 x 0.30

Washer

5 - 9 x 0.20

 

Midvalve

Washer

2 - 16 x 0.30

2 - 9 x 0.20

11 x 0.10

13 x 0.10

15 x 0.10

16 x 0.10

17 x 0.10

18 x 0.10

4 - 19 x 0.10 (removed 1, 5 std)

Piston

Rebound

2 – 18 x 0.09

5 – 20 x 0.09

Bended washer 4mm

Float 0.3mm

Thinking about removing the 22.1, 20.1 and 18.1 from BV?! Any other suggestions?

Edited by jesusmannen

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Your issue on the sharp bumps is the total amount that your midvalve can open. So your .3 float plus the thickness of all the shims between the back of the last 19 and the top of the first 16.3. So right now your midvalve can open 1.3mm, you need at least 2mm available to soak up those sharp bumps. Replacing 1 of the 16.3 with something like a 13.3 will help and then putting shims under the collar to increase the spacing and then add the same amount of thickness of 9 shims next to the other 9s to keep the same float that you have now.

Edited by jjy130
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6 hours ago, jjy130 said:

Your issue on the sharp bumps is the total amount that your midvalve can open. So your .3 float plus the thickness of all the shims between the back of the last 19 and the top of the first 16.3. So right now your midvalve can open 1.3mm, you need at least 2mm available to soak up those sharp bumps. Replacing 1 of the 16.3 with something like a 13.3 will help and then putting shims under the collar to increase the spacing and then add the same amount of thickness of 9 shims next to the other 9s to keep the same float that you have now.

Thanks man, good point! 

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8 hours ago, jesusmannen said:

Thanks man, good point! 

Not sure you guy's are on the same page... For one, your listed reb is actually comp. So the comment above is about your reb not comp. 

The 20's should be on the face of the mid comp piston then the 18's. I can't remember but I think that mid had a weird cylindrical washer below the comp stack? Any pictures?

Edited by Wooded

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2 hours ago, Wooded said:

Not sure you guy's are on the same page... For one, your listed reb is actually comp. So the comment above is about your reb not comp. 

The 20's should be on the face of the mid comp piston then the 18's. I can't remember but I think that mid had a weird cylindrical washer below the comp stack? Any pictures?

Holy Sh-t! Of course You are right! I’m just learning but this was a tru nobe mistake 🙈
 

I’ll take them apart and post som pics

Edited by jesusmannen

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5 hours ago, Wooded said:

Not sure you guy's are on the same page... For one, your listed reb is actually comp. So the comment above is about your reb not comp. 

The 20's should be on the face of the mid comp piston then the 18's. I can't remember but I think that mid had a weird cylindrical washer below the comp stack? Any pictures?

Good catch. That stack that he had listed sure looked like a kyb mid comp stack similar to yamaha just 1mm smaller on everything. I'm curious to see what the piece is below the actual comp stack on your setup. 

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If 18.09 is against 20mm piston would make it a bleed, right? Otherwise the 5 20’s would make it a very stiff mid comp? I’ll try to get the time to tare forks a part tomorrow 

Edited by jesusmannen

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3 hours ago, jesusmannen said:

If 18.09 is against 20mm piston would make it a bleed, right? Otherwise the 5 20’s would make it a very stiff mid comp? I’ll try to get the time to tare forks a part tomorrow 

If you did that it would mainly affect the reb dampening. Correct more bleed but on the reb stroke. Probably no change on comp if it has .3 float like you say.

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13 hours ago, Wooded said:

If you did that it would mainly affect the reb dampening. Correct more bleed but on the reb stroke. Probably no change on comp if it has .3 float like you say.

I didn’t do that. Looks like it is stock….look at this thread 

 

Edited by jesusmannen

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Here comes an update with picture of mid stack, finaly! It was a bit different from the one I found in Bangs earlier thread that I linked to. This is a stock European mid except that I earlier pulled one of the 20mm face shims from mid comp..So 6-20s and 4 17s would be stock. Sounds stiff to me combined with stock .2mm float. 
 

From this stack I would like a bit more rebound damping and softer comp to soak up the sharp edges. What could I do? Pull the 12 clamp on rebound and go with the 13, and another face shim from comp? And keep the .3mm float?! That’s my guess


 

8C883F1A-9E0A-4D8C-8256-195B47C69D1C.jpeg

Edited by jesusmannen

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Jjy130 gave you the right direction,you need a bigger total opening of the mid ,the stack almost doesn't matter if it restricts too much 

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3 hours ago, mog said:

Jjy130 gave you the right direction,you need a bigger total opening of the mid ,the stack almost doesn't matter if it restricts too much 

Problem is that it’s the rebound side that have the 16.3s and tapered stack, comp only got 6 20s and 4 17s then the collar and some 10s to adjust the float and finally the spring and base. 

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If you taper the 17 down that will give you more room and less stiffness 

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1 hour ago, mog said:

If you taper the 17 down that will give you more room and less stiffness 

Thanks for the input!
 

Should I keep all 4 17s? And then go with 16, 15, 14, and clamp on 13 maybe?  

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