Shredded, AGIAN!. Aftermarket hub suggestions?

:D It happened again today. My rear hub is trashed. The same thing happened about a year ago while I was trail riding, now it has happened at the track. I made the mistake of going with an OEM hub after the first time, but I'm not doing that again. Does anyone have suggestions for aftermarket hubs?

FYI: I was changing a flat lastnight and discovered that my sprocket bolts were all loose. I was able to move the sprocket side-to-side about 1/8 inch. I removed the sprocket and reinstalled it with Loc-Tite. I had a total of about 2 hours riding time today when it blew apart again. Four sprocket bolts are missing, but I'm having a had time believing that they could back out that quickly.

I'm very fortunate that it happened on a straitaway, if it would have waited another 2 seconds to let loose, I would have been on the face of a double. :)

That's my dilema. I'm planning on going up north Wednesday night with my family so some quick help is appreciated.

Thanx Again TTers


I am curiuos, so I am going to ask

After every ride do you go over every nut and bolt on the bike, Expecially the Sproket?

The answer to your question, Ego, is simply <u>no</u>. I should check them constantly, but haven't. You can bet that I will from now on. I wirebrush and lube the chain after every ride and I haven't ever noticed anything loose, until lastnight. Nonetheless, lastnight the bolts were loose but they were all there.

I was reading some prior posts about the issue and I'd like to mention that the sprocket was snapped. It looks like a "c". It wasn't folded or bent very badly. Every thing is still there, except the 4 bolts. After looking at it, I'm unsure as to whether the bolts just snapped or if they did, indeed, fall out. I just can't imagine that happening after only 2 hours of riding time.

I'm going out to wash it and take the junk off. I can't believe I'm going through this again! Maybe its just time for an '03 450.


[ July 28, 2002: Message edited by: teamtoxic ]

the loose bolts weakened the hub. then it broke.

Yes, I think I agree with ya bodge. I've been searching the net but haven't been able to find much. I found a few aftermarket hubs, but none cheaper than a hundred bagillion dollars. The more I read previous posts and the more I think about it, I'm beginning to believe the nuts just came off. I'm sure the locker inside the nut was junk. I think I may just end up with stock stuff again, even though I'd rather not. With all new everything and a few big gobs of red Loc-Tite, hopefully I won't have any problems. Maybe in September I can convince Mom & Dad that I need a new bike.

I am still open to last minute suggestions for hubs!



It's not the bolts and it's not the hub.

Save your money and do some homework via this site.


Please don't take this as an insult, but are you sure the chain wasn't too tight? This WILL grenade a hub.

A simple way to check is to pull your shock next time you have your subframe off. Keep the rear tire and chain on. With the shock removed, you can move the rear end through it's arc, positively verifying the chain tension is indeed set properly. As your rubbing pads wear, this also does have an effect on the required chain slack.

Last year while riding w/ (Moderator) Bill in PA, I found my chain too tight! :D Who'duh thunk?? :)

Hope your not wire brushing an O-Ring chain! :)

Re the check your chain tension suggestion, when you do this be sure to spin the rear tire around a couple of times. The chain is tighter in some places than others.


Agree with DaveJ

Thats is why I asked the questions.

TeamToxic, This is not a hub issue. I would say that you are either keeping your chain too tight or when you tightened up the Sprocket bolts/nuts, you over torqued them to the point where they started to break. This has happened to me once. If 1 bolt is over tightened the bolt will shear into 2 pieces. The nuts are not coming off...the bolts are weakened & breaking under load. Replace all of your sprocket bolts with either new bolts or Grade 8 bolts, then "torque the NUTS" to proper will not have this issue. The chain needs to be adjusted correctly. Use the 3finger rule at the rear of the top chain slider, when the bike is on the ground, not on the stand....this should solve your hub issues, once & for all.

I'm at work on lunch now and my dad just ordered the parts for me. I went with all stock stuff. $128 w/o chain & sprockets. Dad said he'd help me out buying an '03 so I'm thinking I might do that. Its time for a new bike anyways. I might as well enjoy my last year at home anyways because next fall I'm off to college. Thanx for the help and suggestions, I will most definately look at things a little more closely with the drivetrain on my bikes while reassembling and from now on.


[ July 29, 2002: Message edited by: teamtoxic ]


Here's the deal.

First, there is a problem with sprocket bolts coming lose. Either replace the factory nuts with a nylon lock nut or Loc-Tite them.

If you lose enough off the nuts, the bolts fall out, leaving only two or three pawgs in which all the power is delivered, which in turn snaps the hub.

The other problem, which I think is what you have, is that the factory chain spec from Yamaha is too tight.

Pulling up on a chain by various forces results in various settings. At a tight "1.6 inches", the minimum factory spec, you could have a chain that is too tight.

When the swing arm is at its longest distance from the pivot, the chain will pull the sprocket outwards from the hub. This either snaps the bolts, pulls the nuts from the bolts, and/or breaks the pawgs of the hub.

It's a gradual breakdown.

Evidence of this is in the bolts you lost, and a close examination of the hub that remains.

I racked my brain on this for several weeks until the picture unfolded, (and I found a few lost bolts). Then it came clear-as-day as to what took place.

However, very rarely, they are a few hubs that were not casted correctly. Missing bolts is not a symptom in these cases, but a close examination of the break lines will reveal shiny areas where the casting bubbles allowed friction before they gave way.

The good mechanics will pull the shock and move the swing arm through its range and get very familiar with various chain settings and methods for adjustments. With that knowledge, you'll know how much pull and how much slack is what you need. And you'll also be surprised as to how tight a reasonable 1.6" measurement can be.

And you may want to share this information with your dad out of respect for his on-going support.


Id use an aftermarket bolt on the sprocket. Im beginning to think that the stock Yamaha bolts are to brittle.

If I had to buy a hub, Id buy a Talon. I have one for my CR500. Its a very nice piece. You wont be breaking a Talon for sure. Even if the chain is too tight. Your more likely to knock the counter shaft drive bearings out of the case, than break a Talon hub, with an overtightend chain.


What do you think about the weight differences with the Talon's?


As far as hubs - Talons.

As far as sprocket bolts, go Yamaha. My KTM won't keep sprocket bolts in, doens't matter how tight, or how much blue lock tite I put on.

I just lost one bolt two rides ago, and I lost two bolts last ride.

I'm going to get all Yamaha bolts now (8mm head, not 5 or 6 mm), with NyLock nuts, and RED lock tite.

Davej to tell ya the absolute truth, I didnt notice any weight difference between the two at all. Im sure it weighs more, has to. Its billet. The stock one is cast. Its on back (the talon)of the RED BEAST, and the beast notices nothing. The red beast says, "oh the rider weighs 350 pounds, so" or " ya im geared to 130, so what, start me in third anyway, just hang on". EVIL. The thing was ported by Satan himself.

Ricky Carmichael would probably notice the weight diff. I didnt.

Dave, I read some of your previous posts and I am FOR SURE going to check out the swingarm's arc to get an idea on what the real chain adjustment should be. The parts should be here tonight so we'll see how it goes the 2nd time around. I already have everything cleaned up and ready to be assembled.

I've listened to all of your suggestions and I thank all of you. TT is a great community. Later,


The smartest way to adjust the chain is to wieght the bike and bring the axle, swing arm pivot and the countershaft in a straight line, and just give your self about 1/2 inch of play in the chain up and down in the middle between the counter shaft and the axle.

That the way Ive always done it.

Someone mentioned earlier "a 3 finger rule"...what is that? I have a '01 426 and don't want to go through hubs either....


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