Front forks? and rear tire suggestions

Finally got to ride the pig!

Whoa.....this thing is a MONSTER!!!

I did not ride it till I finished uncorking, QS carb, new chain and sprockets, uni air filter (still need to install the air kit from Barnhams). Check and tighten all bolts......etc...

Rode in tight woods without having the sag set for me, now I need some advise from the tree picking group here on the list.

The ride was very in it would not turn slow without washing the front, not good. As the speed increased it was very stable but in a set of whoops the rear wanted to kick up...not good.

Then, having not ridden in 10 to 15 years on a dirt bike I was wore out!!!!! Did not bring any water and it was 90+ in Alabama in July with 75% humidity, not good! And I dropped it in a tight sandy off camber downhill this thing is heavy!!!BRP fits.

It started 1st kick no problem and never missed a beat!

I will need a step so I can stand on the pegs with the kick stand down to start the BRP when in the woods so the stand does not sink...I am 5'9" with a 30" inseam any suggestions let me know.

The forks are all the way down in the upper clamp, how far can I pull the tubes up with out interfering with the front tire? Suggested amount.....

I weigh 205 w/o gear what is a good starting point for suspension settings front and rear; I already had the Racetech fork and rear springs when I bought it.

What is the best tire for the has a Michelin Cross competion S-12 on the rear that it came with and the pig spins it at will. Can you install a larger rear to help or will it affect the handling in a negative way?

Thanks for all the info, this and the other list are what made me decide on the BRP.


I put a Summers fork brace on mine; it helps with the front-end-pushing a fair bit. Didn't have the $ for a steering damper. This has been fine. Welcome aboard! :thumbsup:

First of all remember you are riding a big, heavy, stable bike. Winding tight gnarly single track and it just do not get along unless you are a brute with a lot of stamina.

How to make it turn better?

First is to move the rear wheel as far forward as possible. Shorten that wheel base. If you have to take out chain links as needed. Next is to raise the forks up. How much? Measure the distance from the tire to the inside of the fender. Find out how much suspension travel you have and make sure the tire does not rub the inside of the fender.


Normal 25% of suspension travel works fine


Well this will get you many many suggestions and opinions. So here is mine.

I like a front tire that is stuck like glue to the trail. I used to run a Dunlop 755 but it wears too fast in hard pack and rocks. I changed to a Pirelli MT44 and have been very happy.


Again my opinion. Trelleborg Supermaster in a 110/100-18 Go to to see one. Great wearing and traction rear tire. It is not cheap but buy one and try one and find out just how great they are. I swear by them. They out lasted any rear tire I have ever ran. It works in all conditions and what I like best is that the shoulder knobs hold a washed out trail and you can steer and get out of a rut.

If the bike is spinning a S-12 at will it is worn out. Do not put on a M-12 on the rear unless you never ride in mud or loose conditions. That tire sucks. It will low side you in a heart beat in mud and loose conditions.

You talk about different springs in the forks and shocks. Do you know the rate? Is the rate correct for your weight, riding style and terrai? Very important.

I spent alot of time on my 95 XR600R setting up the suspension. Correct springs are a must before one starts trying to "dial" it in.

Sound like the shock does not have enough rebound damping if the seat is hitting you in the rear in Whoops.

Starting on the trail

Pull over to the left side of the trail. The trail is normaly lower than the surrounding ground due to errosion and wear. Put your right foot down on it.

Starting on the side stand. Sorry that is something I will never do. Break/bend the side stand or frame tab and you will learn why. Carry a short piece of 2x4 if have too. Put it behind the front number plate and the odometer, it will stay put.

I replaced the springs for my 200lb toilet and gold valves, it helped the bike soak up the trail and helped the tire track very well. Also a must do for woods work is to lower your clamps or slide the fork legs up above the top triple clamp by 1cm. This steepens the head angle and make the bike easier to turn. I have my rear sag set at 9cm, a little stiffer than what is recommended but the difference is huge. I also run my rear tire as close to the front of the swingarm without rubbing, again making the bike turn better. I have the stabalizer but don't really think it helps in the woods. :thumbsup:

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