Washer Fix for Clutch

I recently did the washer fix for my clutch on my YZ250F and it worked out great.

I just have one question: my best friend has a YZ426F and has the same problems, can he do the same fix on his bike?????


What is the "washer fix" exactly?

Do a search for the specifics, I think it's on the 250F forum. Basically you go to Home Depot and buy a $.79 pack of 6mm washers. You lay the bike over on it's left side. Remove the clutch housing and then remove the clutch spring bolts. Slip the bolts over the bolts and make sure that they fit INSIDE the clutch springs (VERY IMPORTANT). then reinstall the bolts. I'm not real sure the mechanics of why this works (check out the above mentioned threads) but I was having problems with my clutch being kind of grabby. Couldn't find neutral very easy and when I shifted it was very stiff.

I did the mod and now it is "butter" smooth and I have never been able to find neutral so easy.

I just wondered if 426's could do the same mod?


Dock could you explain that again. I sounded like you were increasing the preload on the spring, and I fail to see how that could impact the action of the clutch, other than increasing the required pressure for lever action and overall holding ability of the clutch. :)


Like I said, I don't really know how it works,but I picked it up on the 250F forum. Seems 250's have a lot of this problem. All I know is I did it and my clutch has never been smoother!

Look for the threads on the 250F forum under "Grabby Clutch" (I think) or "$.79 Washer Fix fo Clutch"

Sorry I don't have more but it worked for me!



Here, I hope this helps!

"The issue with the stock hardware on my bike, and probably many other bikes, is that the spring CAVITY is not deep enough at full clutch pull.

What then happens is that the solid height of the spring (i.e. fully compressed) is longer than the spring cavity (space between the pressure plate and the large diameter washer under the retaining bolt) at full clutch pull. So instead of the pressure plate traveling far enough to unload the clutch plates it binds against the solid height of the spring.

To prevent the spring from compressing to its solid height we need to lengthen the cavity in which it lives. To do this, spacers must be added to the clutch basket towers where the bolts thread in. (I agree that there was a "liquid lunch" involved in this miss-machined part.)

The spacers (lock washers) shim out the retaining bolts (one end of the spring cavity) so that the springs play nice with the pressure plate travel.

I do not have any pictures, hope the description helps."

I found this on the 250F forum. I apologize to the author but right now I can't remember who it was (and I'm too lazy to go back and find out!)


I understand now. I dont believe throw out distance is an issue on the 400/426. Mine is fine, and I dont recall anyone bringing up the issue. Clutch action while engaging is a snatchy grabby deal now and then, but you can usually get the thing to let go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now