New stator, no lights

I just installed a 200W stator from Ricky Stator on my 1997 XR600R, and although the bike will start, I now have no lights. I hooked up the three wires and it seems the connections are solid; they were on the old stator. Is it significant that I can start the bike; that would seem to mean that the ignition portion of the stator is producing power. Any ideas? Thanks,


check your fuse.

The ignition and lighting related windings on the XR600 stator are independent of eachother. The new ignition (exciter coil) is functioning if the bike runs. The ignition wire is the black/red wire so you don't need to be concerned with it. The remaining two wires (green & white w/ yellow stripe) are the lighting leads which should be tested with an ohm meter. Those two leads should show continuity only with eachother and nothing else. There should be appx. .5 - 1 ohm (low resistance) between them. If they don't show continuity with eachother it means the lighting coil is broken somehow (bad solder connection?) If one or both of the wires shows continuity with the chassis of the bike it means the lighting coil is shorted to the stator armiture. The wire colors I've cited are the stock wire colors Honda uses - Ricky Stator may use different colors. Did Ricky Stator send any instructions or wiring diagram with it? What did they say when you called them?

the stator being ac current can't be hooked up backwards, but wouldn't you check the fuse first?

No fuse on my bike. I didn't get any instructions; with only three wires you wouldn't think I would need them, but apparently you would be wrong. I haven't had a chance to call Ricky Stator as I just discovered my problem tonight, after business hours. I sent them an email, and expect they will be helpful. They were great when I ordered the stator, and shipped it immediately.

Thanks for the tips. The color coding on the Ricky Stator stator is the same as Honda; the green and white/yellow have continuity when checked against each other and also when checked against the frame. So that means I have a short? Now what?

Thanks again,


First make sure the stator wires aren't pinched/shorted to the case saver where they exit the grommet in front of the countershaft sprocket. Does your bike have an aftermarket dual sport kit on it?

You don't need to check the lighting coil wires for continuity with anything else. Just make sure both wires are unplugged from the AC regulator when doing your continuity tests.

Another way to test it is to attach the white/yellow and green wires to your meter set on AC voltage, start the bike, and look for a sharp AC voltage rise proportional with engine RPM.

Or another way, you can start the bike and touch the two stator leads directly to a 12v test bulb (your headlight?)and see if it lights. Be careful though, if the coil is working it will be making unregulated voltage so the test bulb will blow if you rev the motor.

You can be certain the rotor is not demagnetized and the stator should only install into the case one way. I haven't seen a Ricky Stator though.

If they're common with the frame then it sounds as if it might be shorted. The lighting coil on the stock stator is not common with the frame. Did you purchase this stator to replace a bad ignition or to run bigger lights? If it was to run bigger lights have you modified the stock wiring harness or voltage regulator at all?

I bought it to run bigger lights. According to the Ricky Stator website, it shouldn't need any different wiring or a different AC regulator. I would have gotten this info first hand, but the Ricky Stator boys and girls took this week off. Good for them, rats for me.

If I have a short, I can't imagine it being anywhere other than inside the crankcase cover; there isn't much wiring on the outside, it is brand new, and I can see all of it. But I don't understand how it can be shorted on the inside, as I installed it exactly like the old one was and again, it is brand new wiring. If the coil wiring is touching the side cover or magneto, which seems unlikely, would that explain the continuity between the lighting wires and chassis? I'm reluctant to pull of the crankcase cover again, but I guess that's next...


Update: I can drive the old headlight directly off of the lighting coil, which would indicate to me that the coil is functioning. The only thing between the coil and the lights on the bike is the AC regulator. Like I said, according to the RS website, I shouldn't need a new one with the new stator, but it is beginning to appear as if I have fried the original one and will need a new one. Does my logic have any obvious flaws?

Sounds like the stator armiture might not have been properly insulated before the lighting coil was wound. The lighting coil cannot be touching any bare metal on the stator. To verify this, remove the stator from the bike and test to see if the lighting coil leads have continuity with the body of the stator. If they do, it's shorted. If they don't, the short had to have been the wiring from the stator shorted either inside or outside of the casecover. You already indicated that the external stator wiring looked solid though.

You can try bypassing the regulator to check it. Touch the two green males and two white/yellow males together with the bike running and see if the lights come on.

Thanks for all the help, Moleculo. I tried your latest suggestion, and touched the male ends of the green and white/yellow wires together, bypassing the regulator. Nothing.

So, correct me if I'm wrong here, this is what I understand to be happening; the lighting coil is working because it will run the light directly off the coil. The regulator is not necessarily at fault because bypassing it does not allow the lights to run. Thus the problem must lie in the wiring harness itself, assuming both lights to be good? Is that right? And if so, how the hell did that happen?

Thanks again for all the help,


Try checking for continuity between the white/yellow wire from your harness under the seat and blue wire that plugs into your headlight at the front of the bike. Same with the greens.

Or you can bolt your stock stator back in and see if the problem remains.

Well, I'm stumped. There is continuity through both the green and yellow/white wires from the connections under the seat to the headlight. So the coil drives a light directly, but not through the intact lighting wires. Makes no sense to me. I want to believe that the coil is functioning properly since it will drive a light directly, but I guess that the new part is the most likely culprit. I suppose before I break open the side cover again, I'll wait for Ricky to get back from vacation and see if he has any insight on his stator. Thanks again for all your help,

Moleculo, thanks for all your help, and it would appear that your diagnoses was dead on. Despite supposedly being on vacation, Ricky Stator took the time to answer my email, and told me that it wasn't uncommon for the large windings of the new stator to contact the metal clamp that holds the stator wiring harness to the stator. I looked at my stator, and I think this is what happened; I'll re-install it in the

morning with the clamp moved and hope for the best. Thanks again, and thanks to Ricky Stator for answering my email on a weekend,

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