doh! - sometimes I could kick myself


I did the yz thing to my 01 and there was an increase in engine noise. i think it is becuase a lot of us are big on low end and when you yz it you get more chain slap at low end. My bike is pretty quiet but still makes a lot of noise internally. I don't know if it is chain slap or what. males me nervous. Maybe I didn't set it back to the WR timing properly.






possibility that the valve was touching the piston. this would make the valve train rockn'roll


Now that's funny :) Oh well, Brian at least nothing is actually wrong. I too noticed more noise when going YZ, nothing to worry about if done properly. Also, if you're jetted for WR timing, the YZ timed will be running quite rich, at least that's my experience. My bikes makes a lumpy noise when rich, while lean sounds more like rattling a tin can with the cap inside.

My YZF600 street bike makes a god aweful growl when letting go of the gas above 8,000 rpms. It's just the howl of the three, yes 3 airboxes!!!!

Thanks Taffy - I knew I could count on you :)

When I figured out that I set the cam timing off by 1 pin my biggest fear was that the valves were contacting the piston. Imagine my relief when I figured out that I actually set it to factory YZ specs.

mcarp - I am jetted for WR timing and if that noise is what I get with YZ timing I don't think I'll ever do it on purpose.


Some of you may remember that I recently adjusted the valves on my '99. And that I picked up a noise that I thought was the counter balancer drive gear noise. I wasn't sure if the noise was there before adjusting the valves or not. So I assumed the noise was there before I adjusted the valves and proceeded to fix the CB drive gear - Loctite sleeve retainer, new square key & lock washer. Well, I started the bike up the first time after fixing the CB drive gear & the damn noise was still there. So much for my abilities to diagnose strange engine noises.

So I remove the valve cover again, now the third time since I had taken it off to check the valvetrain to make sure I hadn't screwed up anything the first time. I check everything again & notice that the cam timing marks are not FLUSH with the machined surface of the head. DOH!!!!! I had checked this the first & second time the valve cover was off & just flat out missed it. Turns out I accidently set my timing to YZ specs (12 pins between marks) instead of WR specs (13 pins).

So I reset the valve timing and guess what? That nasty sound is gone.

Sometimes I could just kick myself. I'm guessing you guys will help me out by kicking while I'm down :)



How did you like the YZ timing? I guess you didn't ehh? How did the performance differ?




97 KDX220, 86 TTR225, 99 WR400f, WR timing, MX-Tech suspension, throttle stop trimmed, air box lid removed, White Bros head pipe, silencer and air filter. De-octopussed. Works frame guards and Thumper Rad Guards, Scotts steering damper. Odometer and headlight removed. Cycra Pro-Bend hand and mud guards. YZ stock tank, IMS seat and number plate. Renthal Jimmy Button "highs" and Renthal Soft half waffle grips. AMA, SETRA, Happy Ramblers MXC, Rausch Creek MXC, Tower City Trail Riders.


It never even left the driveway with YZ timing because it sounded like it was ready to explode. Can anybody explain why changing from WR to YZ timing would cause that racket?


I found the oppisite, With WR timing my "00" had a loud knock while idling or at low revs since changing to YZ timing and re-jetting the knock has gone.



When everyone was over for "the ride" last week. I changed my bike to YZ timing and installed a EKP needle.

I haven't noticed any "new" sounds from the motor and the bike starts and runs the best ever and it's still on the lean side in the lower RPM range (FS-2.5 turns out). I have a 48PJ that will be installed before the next ride (Thanks Nick :D).

I use Quaker State semi-synthetic, if that makes a difference :)



99 WR400f, YZ timed, MX-Tech suspension, White Bros E-Series (12 discs), tapered header and a/f. Works Connection billet throttle tube and frame guards. Cycra Pro-Bend, triple clamp mount handguards. Thumper Racing rad guards, Renthal Jimmy Button highs, YZ Tank and IMS seat, YZ number plate, odo removed, EKP, 48PJ, 175MJ at 500-1000' Thanks James Dean!

Upon reflection I think I actually advanced the intake by one tooth as opposed to retarding the exhaust one tooth - I had 12 pins between the marks & the EXH cam was flush with the machined edge at TDC - oops.

Bike ran fine last Sunday except for the little problem of the oil drain plug falling out about 8 miles from the truck :) I think everything will be fine - I'll let you know tomorrow......


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