Brake fluid change tips?

Did a search for this first and came up with nothing. Any tips for draining and replacing brake fluid? My brakes are very squishy, i think its what i need to do. thanks

Go to AutoZone and spend $20 on a vacuum brake bleeder, you can do the job in a matter of minutes with no hassles. Put the vacuum bleeder on the bleeder screw, pump up the pressure, open the bleeder screw a little. Make sure to keep replacing fluid in the reservior as it is sucked out the bottom. Give it a couple of old fashion hold and release cycles and you are good to go.

If your front brake is squishy it could also be due to breaking down of the brake line liner. If you are still running the stock line and routing, consider replacing with a Galfer or equal brand CR routed brake line. It is shorter and stainless steel wrapped. As far as having to bleed the brake line with a vacuum, that is up to you. When you replace your stock line with a CR routed line gravity bleeding is accomplished in just a few short minutes. Make sure and use DOT4 or better fluid.

Definatly stick with the DOT 4 fluid, I just gravity bleed it but I do put a clear hose on the bleeding valve, I tape it vertically to the fork, I can watch for the last of the bubbles to come out this way and its a little cleaner. I still pump the brakes up and hold them in and just bleed off a little fluid each time I hit the track, you can get the residual air bubbles out over time. The hose is very essential, if you have the cash the CR routing metal mesh is worth the time... :thumbsup:

Nah, I gotta go with the Autozone (or similair) vacuum pump. Just make the investment, tools pay for themselves.

After a lifetime of F'n with pump'n bleedin ect,,, I finally got one and can't believe how fast and easy it is to change brake fluid. No air bubbles, no pump'n, no [@#$%&*!].

Plus you can use it on the car and you don't need anyone to pump the brakes for 'ya. :thumbsup:

ok McDudes, how do you do the gravity bleeding, something to do with the earth's natural attraction im sure......... ive been doing it the hard way and it sure sucketh mightily.

The way Satch works flawlessy. I had the same issue's awhile back and it worked great. The only problem I had was a little bit of air getting inbetween the threads of the bleeder screw from time to time. Just dont open it all the way up. Also go for the steel braided brake line from Rocky Mtn. they have good prices and good people there. fast delivery too! :thumbsup:

Gravity bleeding, funny sounding isnt it, I think the hardest part of the whole process is getting all the air out of the master cylinder so that its pumping motion is actually pumping fluid. Thus the recommendations for the vacuum pumps, they are sweet and do the job, I just use a 10" maybe 12" peice of clear tubeing that fits over the bleeder at the bottom of the fork, I make sure the resevoir is open and full and then I can suck a little fluid though, making sure not to go lower than half in the resevoir, after that I can get the master cylinder to do the work for me, I leave the tube on and let it fill up and I watch for 100% fluid to come through, tighten the bleeder bolt, pump and hold the brakes a couple of time checking for the sponge effect, I even tap all the lines trying to free any air bubbles up, then open the bleeder and pump a little more looking for any residual air bubbles. Anyway the pumps are great you can use the little hose if you want to spend that 20 - 40 bones on some other toy for your bike instead of the vacuum bleeder, its up to you, I do it this way all the time no troubles, I even tried dot 5 for the hell of it, so I had to drain everything bone dry twice to do it, now I am back where I should be dot 4. and all is well.. (I tried the honda dot 4 and the bell ray, I kinda like the bellray dot 4 fluid) :thumbsup:

Bought the vacuum at murry's and worked great. Job took me 5 min. I've got the pressure back in my brake. thanks

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