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Valve adjustment tricks…

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I just did a valve adjustment on my TE450. Here is some info you might find useful…

First off don’t even try to get the shims out without a magnet on the end of a wand thingy. This makes getting them out super easy and makes sure you will not drop it. Also make sure you plug all the holes to the lower end, one in the cam valley, the ones where the cam chain is and the two on the opposite side from the cam chain at the ends of the cams.

Mine were only .001 to .002 off so I just used a piece of glass, some 400 grit wed/dry sand paper some oil and did the figure eight pattern to sand them down a few thousandths. Worked great. It took a little bit but it turned out perfect and no parts to buy.

The tricky part was getting them back in. I ended up using a bent feeler gauge with a little grease on it to hold the shim and slipped it right in. I just put the grease on the bottom side of the feeler gauge, stuck the shim to it and slid it in there.

So magnet, sand paper if your not to far off and a feeler gauge with a dab of grease.

Next time it will be simple. :thumbsup:

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Good info! Something you might want to get in the tool box is a handy pair of dental tweezers. They work great for hold the shims while your putting them back in. And yes, the magnet is the way to go for getting them out.

Husqvarna TE450

Husqvarna TE250

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To put the shims back in, I held them on the side with the magnetic wand, placed them over the valve top, and those that I couldnt just slip into the top of the valve cap, I pressed down and held whilst withdrawing the magnet.

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To put the shims back in, I held them on the side with the magnetic wand, placed them over the valve top, and those that I couldnt just slip into the top of the valve cap, I pressed down and held whilst withdrawing the magnet.

I tried that but my magnet must have been to strong as it did not want to let go of the shim and tried to stick to everything else. That is why i went with the grease and feeler gauge method which worked great.

thanks :thumbsup:

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I like the grease trick - thanks. I use a magenet and a plastic rod to put'em back in their home position.What a fine easy to service design one must say... My valves haven't budged even 0.0005" for the last 500 miles! I check them every other ride...

MSTEx

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I just measured the clearance. The exshaust both measure .006" and on the intake side 1 is .005" and the other .004" I have removed the spacer clip that holds the rockers at the right distance apart, but I cannot get the pard (shims) removed. I tried jewelry pliars with no luck, and I am searching for a magnetic tipped instrument.

My question today is WHY does the clearance go up instead of down? I would think that a worn cam lobe/rocker would make the number larger. Is it because the valve is hobbing itself into the head (or wearing)? Thanks in advance! The bike is running fine. I was just doing my 16 hour check.

Keith

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The wear it on the backside of the valve, where the valve contacts the seat. When that area wears the valve will suck up into the head = less clearence.

brown

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You can get a assortment box of shims from Dennis Kirk for about $50. Comes in handy when you need to swap shims. Part# 148751

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Are the Dennis Kirk shims the correct diameter? That would be my only concern.

Greg

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Greg, you can wet sand the shims, i did and it worked great. i think I used like 800 grit and did the figure 8 pattern. Your only taking a thou or so.

:cry:

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Each valve was about .002" out of spec. I swapped positions of 2 shims to get the right combination. The other 2 I polished down with 400 grit stone. Took about 3 hours, but man the finish is perfect and flat!

When I reinstalled them and went to take measurements, there was about a .015 to .020" gap. I almost crapped myself! Kicked the motor over with the starter for a few revs...... watched the oil flow into the valve train and re measured. Every valve was PERFECT at that point! WHY would this happen? All I can think of is the valves were dry from sitting for a weekend and were not able to seat 100% without fresh oil. Can anyone confirm my thoughts, or correct me?

Thanks!!!

Keith

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Knewman,

If you went with the correct shims and everything was fine after a few cranks, I'd say your home free.

All my valves were off by .002 inches as well and I did the same as you. I moved the exhaust shims to the intake and placed slightly shorter shims in the exhaust. Everything is now perfect.

Greg

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I just measured the clearance. The exshaust both measure .006" and on the intake side 1 is .005" and the other .004" I have removed the spacer clip that holds the rockers at the right distance apart, but I cannot get the pard (shims) removed. I tried jewelry pliars with no luck, and I am searching for a magnetic tipped instrument.

My question today is WHY does the clearance go up instead of down? I would think that a worn cam lobe/rocker would make the number larger. Is it because the valve is hobbing itself into the head (or wearing)? Thanks in advance! The bike is running fine. I was just doing my 16 hour check.

Keith

Try wrapping a wire (curled tightly) around a screwdriver and touching each end to pos and neg of a battery. Magneties instantly :cry:

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Was it the exhaust on the RHS that had the large clearance? If so it may be that the mechanical decompressor pin has snagged the valve and is just holding it open.

Been there - done that.

Turn the motor over and recheck

brownE

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You guy are killing me! Quit Afro-engineering your valves and buy a shim kit already. You'll be spending half your life sanding down shims.

Are you rock apes or bike riders?

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Rock ape also when you can't ride because I can't find the right shim...

Agree with the compression release likes to bind when you tighten the valve cover. I just have to tighten and loosen the 4 nuts until it works freely and it is just part of the job.

Question - since I have been bragging about how my valves have not changed, I actually had one being too loose by about 0.004". This has me baffled. I had a friend suggest that it was carbon build up as he may be right as I was going super slow and stopping a lot arrowing for the last 2 weekends. Rev it up and blow out the carbon? I'll let you know...

MSTex

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I just did a valve adjustment on my TE450. Here is some info you might find useful…

First off don’t even try to get the shims out without a magnet on the end of a wand thingy. This makes getting them out super easy and makes sure you will not drop it. Also make sure you plug all the holes to the lower end, one in the cam valley, the ones where the cam chain is and the two on the opposite side from the cam chain at the ends of the cams.

Mine were only .001 to .002 off so I just used a piece of glass, some 400 grit wed/dry sand paper some oil and did the figure eight pattern to sand them down a few thousandths. Worked great. It took a little bit but it turned out perfect and no parts to buy.

The tricky part was getting them back in. I ended up using a bent feeler gauge with a little grease on it to hold the shim and slipped it right in. I just put the grease on the bottom side of the feeler gauge, stuck the shim to it and slid it in there.

So magnet, sand paper if your not to far off and a feeler gauge with a dab of grease.

Next time it will be simple. :cry:

During the process of sanding your valve shims, what tool or method did you use to measure the shim to know when you had sanded off the appropriate amount?

ktl...

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