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Received a phone call from American Honda today

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There are many theories behind the cause but I think there is probably improper cooling to the right side of the head which causes the right intake to go first. There are other factors but heat is the enemy of valves. The valves springs are most likely causing problems too. If the valves bounce off the seat they cant dissipate heat to the valve seat causing higher temps. Titanium gets soft and weak when it overheats (i.e. titanium header pipes) and this causes the valve faces to mushroom. Richening up your jetting can help the bike run cooler, also two-two cool.

As for me I will be getting another CRF250 when they go FI, probably the second year of FI. The first thing I'm doing before I ride it though is having Ron Hamp do a complete head with his valves and his valve springs. That way I don't have to worry about any valve issues.

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I've never really had any problems with my Honda's. I always used the stock OEM airfilter because I like stock parts but not only that you tell just looking at the OEM airfilter and it's construct, it is far superior. I never do any kinda motor mods like cams and keep the motor stock. Next years bike is faster than any modded like crazy last years bike so why bother and sacrafice reliability?

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that is interesting, the guy who fixed my valves told me always to put the bike to top dead center when hitting the kill switch,

he said the heat would rise into the valve area or something and it could cause a problem eventually

top dead center closes the valves keeping the heat out

and also prevents oxidation on steel valve seats which wiil damage coating on Ti valves---this was also on Eric Gorrs tips---another plus is springs are 'relaxed' at TDC

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this guy is well respected in jersey and does not feel it has anyhthing to do with dirt through the air filter. he would have noticed other signs of dirt getting in
If dirt is getting in, you'll see some accumulated in the top of the carb. Pull the plate on the top of the carb (2 allen screws) and inspect the inner surface. Post pics if you find anything.

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that is interesting, the guy who fixed my valves told me always to put the bike to top dead center when hitting the kill switch,

he said the heat would rise into the valve area or something and it could cause a problem eventually

top dead center closes the valves keeping the heat out

Please explain how you get a running bike to top dead center and hit the kill switch????

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No. Check the other forums.

.

Kawasaki here keep blaming the riders for the grenading of the 2006 KX250F's.

Dales blew, "needa rebuild at 15hrs" Pats blew "needa rebuild at 12hrs" mine blew "needa rebuild at 10hrs" cams blew "needa rebuild at 8hrs" Jasons blew, "no comment"... :excuseme::cry: None lasted past 30hrs, mine was the longest, 29.8hrs.

Cmon Kawasaki just admit they are a dud... :thumbsdn: funi thing, mate somehow scored a 2007 head, 90hrs not one problem, but Kawasaki decided they would leave their poor-er riders out in the dark with a dead brand new bike.. go figure..

My repair bill, $1900.. :devil:

I know of 29 06 kxfs that have blown, 20 of them were a pros practice bikes. the other nine were normal everyday people.. Hence the nice shiny 05 CRF in my shed.

yet no matter how many riders appeal and plea to kawy, "theres nuffn wrong with them" :thumbsdn:

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Please explain how you get a running bike to top dead center and hit the kill switch????

impossible & I responded without fully reading his post :devil:

Dogman, forget the button & slowly manually kick over till you hear the decompressor 'click' indicating TDC---this tip is posted in forums as well as magazine columns

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way to ressurect and old thread I think he bought a Husky......sold the honda.

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