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Nut at top of damper rod question

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In the manual it gives a minimum distance that the tapered nut at the top of the damper rod has to be below the exposed threads.

At one point in the manual (before it gives this distance) it says to turn down the nut until it seats (or finger tight or something like that).

Anyway, I seated mine finger tight and didn't measure the distance cause I couldn't get any more distance if I needed it anyway.

So, are you adjusting anything if you move the nut up and down the threaded part of the rod making more or less threads exposed?

Along these lines I want to make certain I got the long plastic part back on the damper rod in the correct orientation. On one end there is a little notch. The manual says to put the groove at the top.... I'm assuming they meant notch. There is no real rhyme or reason as to which way the thing goes but at first glance it looks like it should go in the other way. I rationalized the notch went to the top because down at the wide part (where the peening is)of the damper rod assembly there is a sectioned off area that I assume fluid flows through and I figured the more tapered end of the plastic part would allow the fluid to flow better and not get in the way.

So, did I guess right?

Eddie

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if finger tightened to the end, its OK

long plastic is a spring guide and it should be oriented downwards with the narrower part at the end

it has nothing to do with the oil (except enforcing newton law when measuring oil level :thumbsup:) it just keeps the spring to flow normally not hitting the inner tube walls

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Ed, you always want to thread the cap down on the rod till it bottoms then bring the nut up to it and lock down. If you don't get the cap all the way on the rod (which I have seen people do many times over the years) then you stand a chance of breaking the rod or stripping the threads. Also you wouldn't have the same number of rebound clicks.

doc

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yes, cap itself has 30 clicks of rebound but when installed properly, the rebound nut hits the upper side of the rod stopping at just above 20 clicks

just figured that out today, so i had to write it

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Shocdoc & 5valve.

So, I bottom the tapered nut on the damper rod threads (towards the bottom of the shock)then attach cap, tignten cap to damper rod with the 'thin wrench", then lock tapered nut to bottom of spacer (run the tapered nut back up the damper rod from being bottomed on it) and then thread cap back onto outer tube?

Just wanted to make sure we were talking about running the TAPERED nut back up the damper rod and bottoming it rather than talking about tightening the nut that needs to be accessed with the thin wrench. Wait a minute. Maybe that's the same thing. Maybe I'm doing this right after all.

Time to check.

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Duh.

OK, I got it. At least I UNDERSTAND what it is I'm doing now. Thanks for helping me get this clear in my mind.

Eddie

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