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X Rt Intake 0 Clearance... Cam Removal Question


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I went and check my valves today and all were perfect with the exception of the right side intake (what a shock) it went to zero clearance. I removed the cam chan tensioner like the article in Dirt Rider says to since I didnt have the tool. I then put a zip tie on the cam chain and removed the main cap bolts. I took off the mains being sure that the bearing locator clip came out and not falling into the motor. Once all that is done and the cam is removed there shouldnt be anything i have to worry about falling into the motor..... right?????

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Not so, grasshopper..... :awww:

You still need to be careful when we removing the intake valve shim "bucket" (the silver can-like thing under the intake cam lobe. Sometimes the shim will stick (just by the oil tension) to the inside-bottom of the valve shim bucket. When you lift out the bucket - be looking for the valve shim!

Also, the shims are really small and you could lose one of those down the cam chain tower if not careful.

Go to (almost any) auto parts store and get one of the flexible wands that has a powerful magnet on one end.

Having this nearby as you remove the buckets/shims is good insurance. You can also use the magnet to remove the shims or help re-install them.

We also used our's to fish out the bearing locator clip ...after one fell down the cam chain tower... ?

...via the engine oil fill plug! :devil:

Actually, it was the wife's idea to do that before tearing the side cover off! But we still got real lucky on retrieving it!!!

Good luck! - RandyB

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I got the shim and bucket out no prob. Thanks for all the tips guys. Is it normal for a dealer to not have the shims in stock. I was actually amazed at the fact when my parts guy told me he had to order it. Hmmmm....

Also the shim that was in there was a 195 and I was at 0 clearance so after doing some math I figurewd I need a 180 shim. Does that sound about right?

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I got the shim and bucket out no prob. Thanks for all the tips guys. Is it normal for a dealer to not have the shims in stock. I was actually amazed at the fact when my parts guy told me he had to order it. Hmmmm....

Check other dealers in your area. Up here - two of the biggest dealers don't stock *any.* :devil:

But a smaller one across town has a full assortment on hand. ?

Go figure, eh? :awww:

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Yeah, as the previous post says, you might want to grind it down yourself - because it is likely the valve is gone anyway. I'm cheap and lazy so I grind my own shims, I use some silicon carbide sandpaper 320 grit or finer on a piece of glass (or any true flat surface), wd40 for lubricant and use a figure 8 pattern. If you don't have a micrometer you should get one anyways. I've done this for years and had absolutely no problems.

But in all honesty, based on my own knowledge of the 450's valve problems on several of my friends' bikes, you'd probably be better off just replacing the valve and spring now. If you do replace the one valve and spring, have someone check the seat first, it may be OK without being recut.

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.....But in all honesty, based on my own knowledge of the 450's valve problems on several of my friends' bikes, you'd probably be better off just replacing the valve and spring now. If you do replace the one valve and spring, have someone check the seat first, it may be OK without being recut.

Best advice yet..... ?

Check your valve clearances often - if you find one going - replace-rehab right away. A small seat cleanup is always better tham major surgery...! - rb

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