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best improvement pipe and filter combo???plus other q's.

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Does anyone have DYNO results from some pipes?

im looking for the best pipe for low -top really...mainly lowend to mid range.

I dont know the pipes really that are out for the 230 but how is the BBR, the DMC (like the looks the best) and big gun if they make them. I like the sounds of big gun in general i had one on my 400ex and it was nice.

Also whats the best filter? Does K&N make one?

another question....

it seems that the 132 main, 45 pilot, and the needle in the 4th clip is the most popular for almost everything. Is that the same if i wanted a pipe and filter?

lastly...how about removing JUST THE EXHAUST BAFFLE. What jetting changes? and how about intake baffle as well?

alot of questions hopefully someone can answer some of them.

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Check out Rick Ramsey's "Modification" page on his website.

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fmods.htm

He seems to know these cool tricks to make the 230 a better riding bike.

You want good, really good low end? Do this mod to your baffle:

http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Flg/BaffleHoles.jpg

Ferget the aftermarket exhaust. They're great for race bikes,

but hardly worth a dime for a simple trail bike.

Good luck!

:thumbsup:

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I believe they have a white Bros. pipe.... Uni AIr filter and 230F's jetting peferances and you'll be hauling! Yoshimira also makes a awsome pipe BUT ITS REALLY LOUD! I have checked all the Dynos for the pipes :thumbsup:

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is there any real advantage to doing that mod compared to just removing it totally besides sound?

well for now im just going to remove the exhaust baffle totally. Only mod. What jetting changes should i look for?

maybe it was my imagination but i removed the entire rear of the exhaust ...i didnt have the correct tool for just taking the baffle screw out) and besides it being about 2x's as loud as my old 400ex with a big gun...i could have sworn that it seemed a little slower on the bottom -top...but that was just 1 second lap around my yard.

what jetting changes?

and im due for a oil change...i never got a manual with my bike :thumbsup: i plan to...but how do i go about changing the oil on this bike...its not like quads with the drain bolt on the bottom...is it that bolt on the right back side...that big bolt?

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is there any real advantage to doing that mod compared to just removing it totally besides sound?

well for now im just going to remove the exhaust baffle totally. Only mod. What jetting changes should i look for?

maybe it was my imagination but i removed the entire rear of the exhaust ...i didnt have the correct tool for just taking the baffle screw out) and besides it being about 2x's as loud as my old 400ex with a big gun...i could have sworn that it seemed a little slower on the bottom -top...but that was just 1 second lap around my yard.

what jetting changes?

and im due for a oil change...i never got a manual with my bike :thumbsup: i plan to...but how do i go about changing the oil on this bike...its not like quads with the drain bolt on the bottom...is it that bolt on the right back side...that big bolt?

Yes sir thats the bolt... :devil:

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If you remove the air box inlet, you will need to purchase the "full-power needle". If you remove only the exhaust baffle, you should be O.K. with installing the clip in the 4th groove in the stock needle,and maybe opening up the fuel mixture screw a little.I personally like the stock Honda filters over any of the after market ones. I do not think K&N makes one for this application, and would not install one even if they did. (I can tell you a lot about K&N's, not good) I do not believe that you will feel any noticable gain by installing any after market exhaust system. I'm confident that your stock exhaust with the baffle removed will offer equal performance, but with MUCH less noise, especially in the low end and mid range power !!

The reality is that a little back pressure will enhance this area.(like a stock exhaust with the baffle removed)

Thats My story........

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The bolt is on the LEFT side on the front. The bike takes 1 quart and has no oil filter. Just take off the black oil filler cap (back right side) and if you want to make it easier, take off the skidplate. This will prevent oil from pooling on the inside of the skidplate. Then take off your shifter, take off the bole and put a drain pan under the bike. Clean the screen if it has and debris, put the bolt back on. Torque the bolt to 15 lb.ft and then add one quart.

If you have a bottle of valvoline tranny fluid or a bottle of any lucas oil product, use the "teepee" cap on the oil to add the oil. Works nicely because you squeeze the oil in. No mess.

Also, only buy a JASO MA type oil, or automotive oil that DOES NOT have the energy conserving lable under the oil wieght. If you buy Castrol, it has a black cap.

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:excuseme:Have you tested any aftermarket exaust systems on your 230. I see afew people here who bad mouth them that as far as I can tell haven't tried them. If you don't THINK they are worth the money thats fine, but if you haven't tried them how do you know.

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I have not "bad mouthed" any aftermarket product. As far as these little bikes are concerned(150/230)the stock exhaust with the baffle removed is a pretty good system, and is not obnoxiously loud. Some people will purchase things for their looks alone, hey it's their money.... I just know from experience and testing such items as mufflers(D.G. Performance, Paul Turner, Bassani,Super Trapp, and others back to back) what to expect. If noise is of little concern, than I'm sure an aftermarket muffler will (should) make a little more power on the Dyno. More often than not, if some other tuning (jetting) is not done along with a muffler swap, there can be a performance DECREASE. If the finished install, along with tuning difference is enough to tell seat of the pants, I'm not so sure. For some people, the added noise is worth the price of admission.

I say: "Get what you need to make you happy". If you want a pipe/muffler, BUY ONE !!

I have seen many people spend a lot of money only to go "slower" over the years however !!

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You need to remove JUST THE INSERT. Not the entire baffle, otherwise you will lose power. If you don't have the right Torx driver, you could just drill it out, and then use a different nut and bolt. But, you would be better off to run down to Sears and get the right tool. After you remove the insert, do the Power up kit, you'll notice a big improvement every where. I think most after market pipes will offer about 1 to 1.5 hp increase. Whether it's worth the money is up to you.

I've talked to some engines builders who have gotten about 24 horsepower out of the 230F. But that's a motor that has been bored-out and had extensive, and expensive, motor mods.

I would only do that if I was going to put the motor in a bike like this...

http://www.bbrmotorsports.com/Bikes/BBR%20Aluminum%20CRF230F/BBRCRF230F_Customer.jpg

That's a 230F motor sitting in one of BBR's Aluminum frames, similiar in size to a CR 85 Expert size bike.

That would be WAYCOOOL!!! :thumbsup::devil::awww:

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That bike is "way cool" and is a nice bike. It goes to show that as long as you compare "like" machinery, even racing can be competetive. But at what cost ??? These bikes are mostly "Big Boys Toys" more than anything. They do not enjoy an AMA sanctioned competition "class", and are raced in "backyard" races promoted mostly by their prospective manufacturers. Don't get me wrong, If I had the money to throw around, I could see a bike like that in my garage too !!

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whats a good name brand oil...the honda stuff??

synthetic or non-synthetic?

Maxima and Motul IMO are the best out there. They're really good oils, and semi-synthetic is fine.

I'm running Regular Castrol motor oil that is not energy conserving with no problems. When it comes on sale at Kragen, I buy a case of 12 quarts at 1.49 a quart.

Also, if you ride pretty hard, change your oil at 2-3 rides. I change my oil every 5-6 hours of the bike running and the oil comes out between new and black. Just right...

Changing your oil a lot also helps reduce the crap that you have to clean out in the centrifigul oil filter.

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ok im ordering the power up kit.

But i can remove the baffle with no jetting changes for now it it will be fine correct?

and what jetting should i run?

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Removing the exhaust baffle without changing anything should be ok. I wouldn't remove the intake baffle until you get a little more fuel into the mix. I tried removing the intake baffle before rejetting, and found that it made the engine run very lean. A very lean condition can damage your engine, so you definitely don't want to run it that way.

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Remoiving the exhaust baffle makes the bike lean as well. I wouldn't really remove it untill you get to power up kit in.

If your bike is a 230f and it's below 2000 feet, 132 main with a 45 pilot should be the hot ticket.

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My bike was lean as delivered.(as are all 230's) I rode the bike with no issues other than being VERY cold blooded after initial start up. When I removed the exhaust baffle only, there was a noticable increase in power, and I did not alter the jetting for some time. (3 months) I then lowered the needle clip one position and ran it in this configuration for more than a year, and it performed to my liking. Only after I removed the airbox inlet did I find that the bike needed more significant jetting work.

Typically, you will find that "reducing" exhaust back pressure, will allow the engine to bring in a little more air fuel mixture, for a little more power.

Altering the inlet side of the engine will have more impact on the jetting, than when altering the exhaust side. There is a whole science to "back pressure" and its affect on tuning, a story in itself. Installing a larger main jet will only help, but the "full-power" needle is not really needed unless you remove the airbox inlet. I would also venture to say, knowing what I know now, that if you install the 132 main and run the stock needle in the fourth groove from the top, you will be happy with the results !! Unless you are very sensitive to engine tuning

(I have "learned" to be over many,many years!) you might not be able to tell the difference between the "full-power needle" and the stock one, as there is only a slight measurable difference between the two.(In the areas that the needle meters fuel)

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well i just pulled the baffle out. Moved the needle clip donw one to the 4th, and turned the fuel screw out one turn. The bike seems to run pretty darn good.

im checked the plug and it does not look any different then it did when i first got the bike brand new

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