Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

hot cams swap

Recommended Posts

I changed my intake cam on my ltz-400. I know this is the wrong forum but its the same engine as the drz-400 I also have a drz-400E :devil: "02" anyway here is my problem i put a hot cam in my ltz on the intake side after changing cams now i have a ticking noise only when the engine is warm aprox 5 min i checked my shim clearence its on the low limit but still in spec .005 i also have the same set up on my drz with no noise. I have aprox 15hrs on the ltz set up I posted this on the quad forum and only got one response he said he had a noise but it went away after it was broke in it rips but the ticking noise cant be good. any ideas, thoughts, trouble shooting ect. :thumbsup: I read this forum everyday i havent herd of a problem that you guys werent able to fix or offer some good advice. :awww:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

confirm the motor is pumping oil.remove the 6mm bolt right above the cam chain tensioner.oil should flow out when it runs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My motor got louder after installing the intake hotcam only. It sounds somewhat like when the valves are adjusted too loose but mine are in spec. I think its not unusual for the hotcams to be noiser then stock. The stock cam ramps are different from the hotcams in many ways, and I'd bet you a beer that Suzuki spent more time and effort on making the cam/valvetrain quiet (NVH) then hotcams did. Personally, I highly recommend the hotcams intake. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for the quick response guys i will check oil flow after work burned and andrew sounds like you have the same noise while were on the valve train what are the springs for on the exhaust valves I was thinking decompression but it doesent look like it opens the valves?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok i checked the oil flow its working the best way i can describe the sound is if you were to spin your wheel then stick a small screwdriver just enough to touch the spokes but again its only when the engine is warm is it possible to run the engine with the valve/cam cover off to see whats going on i know it would be messy but i dont know if it needs to have the breather hose hooked up to run properly :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no its the stock one but it looks like a better one than the 02 model it has teeth that grab together why do you ask does it sound loose? this is a 04 model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How did you deal with it when you removed the cam chain installing the cam? Did you reset it so it could readjust?

I'm wondering if it could be too tight or too loose, they are not reliable and should be changed to a manual version

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when i changed the cam i just put the cam tensioner back in the tensioner has teeth going in opposite directions with a spring that pushes one side all the way out it cant move back because the teeth are meshed together i dont think its adjustable it might be too tight where can i get a manual tensioner? other than that i really dont know what could be causing the noise. the tensioner is different than my 02 version they changed the desighn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

when i changed the cam i just put the cam tensioner back in the tensioner has teeth going in opposite directions with a spring that pushes one side all the way out it cant move back because the teeth are meshed together i dont think its adjustable it might be too tight where can i get a manual tensioner? other than that i really dont know what could be causing the noise. the tensioner is different than my 02 version they changed the desighn.

WOWWWWWWWWWWWWWW,, Warning Warning Warning Warning Warning Warning Warning Warning

That is way wrong..

Ok,, 1st,, when you remove the tensioner,, you need to remove the hex head cap,, releasing the spring pressure on the plunger,, then push in the pawl, allowing the plunger to retract back inside the unit.. You then install the tensioner, then the spring and cap.. The tensioner will now set it self at the proper length(tension).. What it sounds like you did, is leave the spring in,, removed the tensioner,, which of course, extended to it's longest length,,, then you reinstalled it that way.... OUCH,, that really placed a lot of tension on the chain.. If run..(maybe even just installed this way) I'd bet a damaged chain guide, worn or damaged chain would be the result.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

say it isnt so :devil: did i f it up? im such a dork my wife is right. what do i do now? i was looking at it tonight and after i removed the tensioner i moved the cams back and forth and the chain slapped the guide the metal piece on top of the cams and thats the same sound i here when its running why would it be ok when cold then get noisy after warming up? i cant remember how i installed the tensioner after the hot cam install its been a couple months ago i was so excited to unleash the beast i forgot to pay attention to detail i dont think the plunger was out all the way because i would of had to go back and forth on the allen screws to get tight. there are ware marks about 3/4 up on the teeth but at this point i really dont know for sure my belly is upset what would you do now if you were me? dont say take up bicycle riding :thumbsup: so if i understand you guys the proper way to reinstall the tensioner is to push the plunger all the way back "shortest setting" then install with the two screws then put spring in and let the hex screw take up the slack? and as the chain wears it can only move to take up slack? I so need a manual for a "04" i feel like my bike has been raped. I will wait for your reply. thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes,the tensioner needs to be retracted,installed and then the spring and cap installed.do not run it again till you do it correctly.

you may have damaged the rear chain guide.hopefully not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't be so hard on yourself, some of us have done even worse things. You do need to get a manual though. Either go the the kawasaki site and order the appropriate klx400 one or go to repairmanuals.com.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok slept good after a few beers :devil: today i will put the cam tensioner back the "right way" thanks to you guys and will listen i got a feeling i had to much pressure on guide may neen a new one ill give progress report thanks :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How long did you run it with the cam chain too tight? Sounds like a couple months not a couple minutes. I'd say you might be ok. You could have excessive wear on the can and slider so you might replace them but since it didn't break and grenade the bike you're probably ok for now. Just check to see that everything is back in spec and the valves are lashed correctly. I would also shim them a bit towards the looser of the tolerances rather than tighter, as you havethem. It's has it's benefits.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

im such a dork my wife is right.

PM Machinist to get a manual CCT. He makes a really nice billet one, reasonably priced to boot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea it was running that way for two months one thing i noticed was that when i set the acct the right way and then ran for a minnute took it back off it was in the position i originally seen meaning it wasent out all the way also let me run this by you guys is it possible the noise im hearing is coming from the exhaust cam decompression wheel or whatever its called it has a small spring on it and when you hold the wheel towored the bottom "cam is out" and push the wheelback it hardly has enough spring to bring it back i was thinking mabey it wes slapping when spinning i dont know how it workes im thinking centrifucal in nature?if its ok the way it is i was thinking of putting the stock intake back in to see if i here the noise also your right i need to reshim tappet left side is .005 right is .004 i should try for .007 to .008 do they sell tappet shims here on tt dennis kirk only sells sets

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×