New motor, Gray wire, Missed shifts

I finally got my motor back together last night after almost 2 months of no riding. It basically lunched itself as a result of an improper reassembly (by the dealer) and they bought me almost a whole new motor. They replaced the crankcases, crankshaft, cylinder, piston, rings, oil pump, and all the bearings and seals- over $1300 in parts alone. While I had it apart, I got a new stator for an '00 model and rewired it for the Baja Designs kit, I put a switch on my handlebar for the infamous "gray wire" and I put on a new chain, sprockets and tires. I decided that nobody could be trusted, so I put it back together myself. Surprisingly, it only tooks about 3 hours to reassemble the motor and another 3 hours to get it back in the frame and put everything back together. I took it for a break-in/test ride last night.

Since I bought the bike used, I don't know what it felt like when it was brand new, but this must be pretty close. It runs like a scalded dog! The gray wire mod is definitely a plus. Mid range power is so much better than it used to be. I'll be removing the switch before my next ride and leaving it disconnected.

Now, for a question: I can't figure out how to keep from missing the shift as I go from 1st to 2nd. About a third of the time, I only shift into neutral and then I rev the bike too high and lose momentum. I moved the shift lever a few notches lower and it helps a little, but it still happens more than I'd like. Any suggestions for curing this problem? As I was getting a shower this morning (I do all my best thinking in the shower, for some reason) I started thinking that I could tie it into the neutral sensor and wire in a neutral light like they have on street bikes. Could it be done? Pros and cons? I know that in the heat of battle, I couldn't look at the light, but it may fall within my periphal vision enough that it could warn me if I was in neutral.

[This message has been edited by Rich in Orlando (edited 06-25-2001).]

the electrical component/switch mounted on the end of the selector barrel is not a neutral indicator (on the WRF-K anyway) it is a gear position sensor which relays information to the CDI which gets info from the TPS and decyphers thr 3D ignition curve that the bikes are programed with

Thanks, Arrow. What you pointed out was what made me ask the question. "Can it be done?" was basically what I was wondering.

I pulled out my manual to look at the electrical schematic (when in doubt, read the instructions) to see what was going on with the neutral "switch". First, it looked pretty complicated. Second, it looks like in order to do it, it would be way beyond my limited comprehension of electronics. I'll bet there would be diodes and other fiddly bits involved. Third, I don't seem to have as big of a problem with missed shifts anymore, now that I have some miles on the bike again. I just needed to get used to the thing again.

I guess what I'm saying is "Never mind"

[This message has been edited by Rich in Orlando (edited 06-28-2001).]

Well even if your not going to do it, it should be able to be done quite easaly. Most of those sensors just work by getting grounded by the tranny in some way. The ground completes a light circuit. I have wired kickstand safties onto bikes that did not come with them using the nutrel light wire. you would just have to take the sensor off and look at how it is activated. I do belive the WR senses the nurtal position and limits RMP while the bike is in nutral. I have never hit nutral by mistake on my WR. In fact, the shifter takes so littel effort and throw, that I am often times not sure weather I made the shift or not! I guese thats what I get for comming off an 89 YZ250 with a sloppy shifter and thinking that it was sweet compared to my 81 IT 250. :)

Interesting, because I always use Golden Spectro 20W/50 semi-synthetic oil. Mainly because it's my understanding that semi-synthetic oils have better cooling properties (at least that's what I've been told) and that Golden Spectro is the only semi-synthetic oil that my dealer seems to carry.

I could see how a higher viscosity oil could cause things to "stick" more than thinner oil, but could other aspects of the formulation be affecting shifting?

I hate to turn this into an "oil thread" but are there other Golden Spectro users that have had similar/opposite experiences? It sure isn't the cheapest oil, so if there's better performing oils out there, I'd like to find it.


My 99 does the same thing occaisionally normally in a tight spot in the woods or when climbing a steep hill. It never did it when I was using the yamalube, but started when I switched to the Golden Spectro. I'm considering going back to the Yamalube for a cycle and see if the oil is causing this to happen....


Go for the full synthetic Mobil 1 15w50. I havn't missed a shift yet and alot of guys are using it with zero problems. I never heard of a semi or a full synthetic actually cooling better although the better lubrication properties should help to reduce friction thereby limiting friction induced heat build up. Same thing I guess, Just the wording. No problems with clutch slippage from anyone that I know of on the list.


'00 WR 400

Western Fab Insert, YZ timed, airbox lid removed, YZ throttle stop, Michelin S12's, UFO YZ plastic

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