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How to check and Adjust the valves on your 250 (w/Pics)

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I bought a new digi camera last night and today I needed to check my valves after a couple hard rides on my new valve job so I figured why not take some pics and break in the new camera... For those who are a bit timid about doing it yourselves you can see how easy it really is.

First remove the seat by removing the two bolts on the rear sides of the seat and slide it back.

Valve%20Check%20001.jpg

Next remove the rubber strap holding the rear of the tank down.

Valve%20Check%20002.jpg

Using an 8mm socket remove the bolt holding the top of the tank to the frame.

Valve%20Check%20003.jpg

Remove the fuel line fron the petcock. (Dont forget to turn the gas off...)

Valve%20Check%20004.jpg

Remove the bolt holding the petcock.

Valve%20Check%20005.jpg

Next remove the two lower shroud bolts on both sides, leave the top ones in place.

Valve%20Check%20006.jpg

Remove the tank and shrouds as a single unit and set aside.

Valve%20Check%20007.jpg

Clean the top of the valve cover off to remove any dirt and debris.

Valve%20Check%20008.jpg

Remove the spark plug cap by pulling up firmly, it may take a good tug, move it off to the side.

Valve%20Check%20009.jpg

Next remove the vent hose on the rear of the valve cover and remove the two 10mm bolts.

Valve%20Check%20010.jpg

Carefully remove the valve cover making sure you dont damage the gasket. (You can re-use this gasket if you dont damage it.) There is also a rubber sealing ring on the spark plug tower, dont loose it or let it fall into the cam chain tower.

Valve%20Check%20011.jpg

Next remove the cover on the lower right side case, I believe it's an 8mm allen.

Valve%20Check%20012.jpg

Turn the motor over clockwise until the punch mark on the gear lines up with the arrow mark on the side case. Check to be sure that the cam lobes are facing to the rear of the bike, if they are pointing toward the front keep going until they face back and the punch mark ligns up with the mark on the case.

Valve%20Check%20013.jpg

Check the cam gear to make sure the two marks on the gear are level with the surface of the head.

Valve%20Check%20015.jpg

Inset your feeler gauge under the intake lobes, it should slide in with a slight drag. .005" is spec for the intake valves, if it wont fit try the next size down etc.

Valve%20Check%20016.jpg

Next do the Exhaust valves by sliding your feeler under the rocker, spec for the exhaust valves are .011" I use 12" long auto type feeler gauges that are nice and flexible.

Valve%20Check%20017.jpg

Make sure the rubber sealing ring is firmly seated in the under side of the valve cover and set it back on.

Valve%20Check%20018.jpg

Using a "QUALITY" torque wrench (1/4" drive) Torque the valve cover bolts to 84 inch lbs (or 7 ft. lbs.) Be very carefull when tightening those bolts, they thread directly into the cam bearing caps and can only be replaced by buying the whole head assembly, you cant buy them seperate.

Valve%20Check%20010.jpg

Replace everything else in reverse order. Dont forget to replace the cover on the lower right case!

Should I need to actually adjust the shims in the future I will document the cam removal and shimming...

IT"S REALLY EASY!!!!! Takes about 15-20 minutes tops.

PART 2 Reshimming

First off I will begin where I left off with the valve check post, if you haven’t seen it yet start there.

Valve Check Post

Assuming you have recorded your measured clearance (From valve check post) and installed shim size (You will get the installed shim size later in this post) use this spreadsheet (Please right click and “save target as”) to calculate your new shim size. All Honda shim sizes and part numbers are listed at the bottom of the spreadsheet. If you have a valve at zero clearance it will take a few tries before you can get the correct values, you must have some clearance for the spreadsheet to work.

Spreadsheet

Remove the bolt on the cam chain tensioner.

Adjustment%20002.jpg

I use a small flat blade screwdriver to release the tension, turning it clockwise will release the tension on the chain.

Adjustment%20003.jpg

I use a small set of vise grips to hold the screwdriver in place, the tension will hold the vice grips against the side cover holding it in place. If you wish to avoid this step or don’t have the vice grips or screwdriver you can completely remove the chain tensioner by removing the two bolts that attach it to the head.

Adjustment%20004.jpg

Remove the cam cap bolts in steps in a criss cross pattern, loosen a little at a time to avoid warping the caps

Adjustment%20005.jpg

Notice I stuffed a rag in the cam tower opening; this is in case something like the cam cap bearing retainer clip or shims fall it won’t end up in your crank case.

Adjustment%20007.jpg

Work the caps loose by moving them back and forth, once you have them loose place a finger underneath them to hold the bearing retainer clip in place so they don’t fall out, if they do that’s ok…. That’s why you have the rag in the cam tower to catch them in case this happens. Do the same for both sides.

Adjustment%20009.jpg

This is what the bearing retainer clip looks like, it fits in a groove on the cap and aligns in a groove on the bearing.

Adjustment%20010.jpg

Put a little grease in the groove to hold the clip in place when you re-install the caps.

Adjustment%20011.jpg

I use a perm marker and mark a spot on the chain and gear as a reference when re-installing the chain.

Adjustment%20014.jpg

Slide the bearing on the cam gear side to the left, the cam will then drop down on the left side.

Adjustment%20013.jpg

Next wire up the chain so it won’t drop into the tower, if this happens its ok, it won’t go too far, you will just need to fish it out of there before you install the cam back.

Adjustment%20015.jpg

Remove the chain then the cam from the head assy. and place it aside.

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The shim buckets are the round silver parts near the rear of the head that were directly below the cam.

Adjustment%20017.jpg

Lift the buckets up to expose the shims, you can also use a magnet to remove them and often it will lift the bucket and shim out together.

Adjustment%20018.jpg

Usually even without the magnet the shim will stick to the underside of the bucket. If not it will be on the bottom of the valve that was under the bucket. Remove the shim and it should have the size on it. The size will read something like 195 which is 1.95mm. If the writing has worn off you will need to use a caliper or a micrometer to get the size, you will need this to calculate your new shim size. Use the spreadsheet at the beginning of this post to enter your measured values. Once you have the correct shim size ordered and in hand just place them where the others were and replace the buckets. When replacing the buckets put a little clean oil on them.

Adjustment%20019.jpg

To get to the exhaust valve shims remove the small cover on the right side of the head. If all you need to adjust is the exhaust valves your in luck, you dont need to remove the cam or cam caps, you will need to remove the cam cap bolts but thats way easy...

Adjustment%20021.jpg

Using a small screwdriver push the rocker shaft out the hole in the side of the head you just removed the cap from.

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The rocker will now just lift out.

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The shims are directly under the rocker, there are no buckets over the exhaust valve shims. Remove the shims with a magnet and replace them with your new ones.

Adjustment%20026.jpg

Replace the rocker, shim buckets, and cam in reverse order of removal. Make sure your timing marks are lined up (or use the permanent marker reference mark) when you put the chain back on the cam gear.

Place the cam bearing caps back on. This may take a bit to get them lined up as you need to be sure the bearing retaining clip is properly lined up with the groove in the bearing. The bearings slide around so you may need to move them into position a few times before you get it rite. You should be able to get the caps all the way down flush with just your fingers, “DO NOT FORCE THEM DOWN WITH THE BOLTS”

Adjustment%20028.jpg

Next torque the cam cap bolts to 144 inch pounds or 12 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Again do this in steps in a criss cross pattern. (Example: Tighten them at 60 in lb then 90 in lb then 100 in lb then 144 in lb. etc.)Next remove the screwdriver from the cam chain tensioner or replace it if you removed the whole assy.

Adjustment%20029.jpg

Using a "QUALITY" torque wrench (1/4" drive) Torque the valve cover bolts to 84 inch lbs (or 7 ft. lbs.) Be very careful when tightening those bolts, they thread directly into the cam bearing caps and can only be replaced by buying the whole head assembly, you can’t buy them separate.

Valve%20Check%20010.jpg

Put everything back together in reverse order. Now save yourself some money and do this yourself. It really is very easy.

Heckler

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Very good writeup for the guys that are thinking it's a difficult job. :thumbsup:

Be careful when you torque those valve cover bolts. Some guys have snapped them torquing them to Honda specs. I use the feel method myself.

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Jetting is easy, its getting to the carb that is a pain. I took the time to change my pilot jet when my shock was out getting resprung. I took the air box off and put the pro seal on and just took the carb off the intake and tilted it up. You can easily get to the nut on the bottom of the carb and once that is removed you can get to the main and pilot jet with no problems! :thumbsup:

Nice post Heckler!!!! :devil::awww::lol::D

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You sure you just got that camera??????? Looks like you've become an expert with it real quick. Very professional looking presentation. I'm getting ready to check my valves for the first time and now feel much more confident about it after seeing your pictures. Thanks for sharing.

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Awesome Heckler...good stuff. :thumbsup: Now is adjusting them as easy as checking them? Keep up the good work. On other forums we set these posts as a sticky or put it in a knowledge base for future use by all...just an idea.

Dano

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:thumbsup::awww: :awww: :devil:

I love you man.

:lol::D:lol::D :D :snore:

If you email me your address, I'll send you the money that it woulda cost me to send it to the shop. I swear, no joke. Any one else that benefits from this like I will, I challenge you to do the same.

Randy Clark

rclark@tbn.org

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Heckler, thanks for showing me that it is probably not out of my low skills range. This post is very helpful. I paid someone to check mine after a few rides. Next time I will do it myself. Thanks again.

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Excellent writeup! I wish I had seen it before I checked mine for the first time. Once you've done it once, it's very easy to do. Re-shimming looks like it will be a bit more complicated than checking!

At any rate, great post and thanks for taking the time to document your work!

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Heckler,

VERY, VERY good pics! I hate fuzzy digital pics and your's are very sharp and in focus!

I've already checked my valves twice, but this write up will be used by many I'm sure!

Thanks again for the time and effort!

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Wow, you should be making shop manuals. I have never checked my valves but your post cleared up many of the questions I had about doing it. Thanks ALOT man.

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Damn, you guys make me want to take the cam out and do a write up on shimming, even though my valves are still in spec! :thumbsup:

Oooooh...won't hurt my feelings at all...go nuts. :devil:

Dano

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Thanks!

Your next task is to come up with the How-To Shim/Adjust the valves so we all can save some money.

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I plan to check mine now - would have never tried it before your post! THANK YOU! I'd love to see a whole section devoted to "step-by-steps" like this one. Part of my enjoyment of getting into riding is the learning process of the mechanics behind the thrills. Thanks again! :thumbsup:

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