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How do you guys clean your steel oil filters ??

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Now matter how much I try,I cant seem to get rid of all the little metal pieces out of the wire mesh..I get most of them but a small amount remains..Is it ok to reuse them with some metal pieces still in the filter??

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Todd I use brake cleaner with red tube that goes in the tip the pressure cleans out all the shavings hope that helps Rick

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I put my scott's into a jar of solvent and let it sit for a few minutes, then swirl it around a bit, then blow it out with the air compressor. comes clean everytime.

Shane

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I use an old toothbrush. If it gets to a point where I can't get most everything out, it's time for a new one - or if the screen starts to look too old and dark brownish in color I get a new one before it rips...

If a small amount of metal bits is left behind that you can't get out, it should be OK to reuse IMO :thumbsup: As long as most of the filtering area is cleared for oil passage, those little bits won't matter much since they're already trapped in place.

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:excuseme:todd i just dont trust steel filters,nothing beats a paper micron filter,its like using a d.e. filter vs. a sand filter its like nite and day :thumbsup:

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Clean in gasoline and blow out with compressed air.

Workes like a charm. Trick liftet from a Husqvarna ownersmanual :thumbsup:

They come with ss-filters from the factory

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:cheers:gooday mate but what a pain in the ass,a paper filter is cheap, change it every 400 miles,i change my oil oil every 200 so your reusing it one time,

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ATF. Rinse the filter first in clean shop solvent or mineral spirits while preventing anything other than new clean solvent from entering through the outlet hole into the filter's interior. Then put some new, unused Auto transmission fluid in a plastic squeeze bottle and pump a small amount into the inside of the filter, so that you are "backflushing" the filter by running the fluid in the reverse of it's normal direction. The ATF will lift off an amazing amount of very fine material.

Rinse with Brake cleaner as previously mentioned, and repeat the whole procedure again, this time finishing with compressed air at about 40psi, if you have it.

I always used ATF as the final wipe down of a cylinder after honing it. Even after cleaning thoroughly with solvent, a wipe with an ATF wet rag would lift off a significant amount of grit and iron.

As far as the question of paper vs. stainless steel, Scott's filters will pass no particle larger than 35 microns. (1 micron is one millionth of a millimeter, or 0.00000003937 inch) For comparison, a white blood cell is about 25 microns. Fine sand is 60-62. A good paper filter will pass particles as large as 95 microns. Even worse, they flow very poorly when the oil is cold, causing the bypass valve to open, allowing totally unfiltered oil past and on to the engine. But I know all of you guys run your engines at very low speeds until your oil is up to at least 130 degrees, don't you? :thumbsup:

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I don't, but that is Yamaha's position on the brass ones. They went to the paper when they reduced the oil supply in '03. It seems to me that the brass filter would get around the cold bypassing issue, as would any screen type, but if they don't filter as well as paper overall, well...

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Speaking of re-usable filters. This is regarding FURIOUS FLOW filters. I orderd one of these for my wr. When I recieved it, the instructions called for T-30 bit to remove the spring and ball for cleaning.

So I went and bought one. Wrong! takes a 3/16 allen wrench. Well when removeing the screw the threads come out with it. They send me a new one after I returned the defective with a promise they would personaly check the one they send out. The new one arrives instructions still say T-30 bit to remove ball, still uses 3/16 allen wrench. O.K. What made me mad was that the epoxy that they used to secure the rubber gasket had drooled down and filled the screw head up so I could'nt get the allen wrench in. I had to dig the dried glue out to remove it. Others probobly had better experiances but those are mine.

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:excuseme:like i was saying,some people would rather jerk-off rather than get the real thing :thumbsup:

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like i was saying,some people would rather jerk-off rather than get the real thing

Was that directed to me ? I hope not. I don't recall hurling any insults your way. You may change your oil every 200 miles but I change mine every 100 miles of trail or every 50 miles of track. Multiply by 2 bikes and it starts to add up. Combined bikes have close to 160 hrs of riding time on them this year. Oil and filters would run me close to $50.00 a month. Until there is conclusive evidence that these type of filters screw your engine I'll continue to use them. This was my first experiance with Furious Flow. We run a Scotts in the yzf.

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:excuseme:sorry to hurt anyones feelings but anyone who starts a stupid ass thread about how to clean a steel filter,deserves to be picked on because they come with &%$#@!en instructions :thumbsup:are people lonely or just stupid :cry:

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