got the bike back together today and rode it for the first time,and no surprises it worked first try! i was kindly amazed that it worked perfectly first shot,i used 5 tungsten balls and the soft spring on the perch adjuster and it grabs right off of 2000 rpm exactly where al said it would(thanx al)great engagement,perfect comes to mind! no slip just hook up and definately was worth the money,i tried to stall it on some nasty hills behind the house and could not,got to the top and had nowhere to go,turning around was the hard part! it lost no compression braking and the only drawback i can see is you can't bumpstart anymore,oh well small price to pay! the install gap was a tight .030 so break in should put it right where it belongs(will check after one more ride) so far after an hours ride it has not changed any, and doing the 3rd gear brake test kills the rpm's so that is good,and have the proper play in the lever still so it might be good to go!(will check anyway)great product,i didn't believe at first but that changed quick! thanx to all the people who answered my ? all through the process, i'm glad you talked me into it..... if anyone is considering one go ahead and get it, well worth it. :thumbsup::devil:

Do you have any clutch drag at idle?

and you wanted a slipper clutch... :thumbsup:

im glad it worked out for you. what impresses me is that this clutch is perfect for the off-roader, and IMO, is perfect for MX. now thats versitile.

when you come to a complete stop it is disengaged fully,i did notice when coming to an abrupt stop it does drag a little and a quick pull and release of the lever puts it back where it belongs. being so close to idle i've been told this might be an issue but so far its just right! with it set up like this you don't even know it's there until your about to stall,which is exactly what i wanted. the only ? is will it wear the clutch faster this way? if i stop for a prolonged time i pull in the clutch lever anyhow,just to be sure it's fully disengaged. ya, ok tool i know how you got your handle now wiseguy, i was just exploring all the options! :cheers:did your dragging issue cure itself or is it still there?

Did your dragging issue cure itself or is it still there?

I have always had slight dragging issues at idle with this bike. I started with the Gen I and have gone through all revisions up to the Gen III. It's only at idle and not really that big of a deal since the clutch has always worked well when riding it. Al has always done the install on my bike (Rekluse is here in town) and the clearance has always been on the tight side. I'm going to check it again before the big Moab ride in two weeks. :thumbsup:

When I first installed mine, it was dragging a little too. I fiddled a little, and found the little clutch arm (that you can see move) wasn't returning to the disengaged position when the revs came down. A little more fiddling and I figured out it was the clutch arm return spring binding up behind the arm that was putting a little drag on the arm and preventing it from returning easily.

If you manually push the arm towards disengaged, does it move at all, and if so, does this help with the dragging?

i was always afraid of the clutch slipping too much, so i would keep the gap tight. but you can have a loose gap and full engagement. no drag

Mine is set up with the gap at the tight end. Engages fully, and no drag.

i rode again today and there was no drag at all. can you just cut the old spring off? or maybe just the arms off it,the coil might help keep dirt away from the shaft? now if the install gap gets too large it will slip at higher rpm,so if you do the 3rd gear brake test and it passes then your gap should be o.k.,no? or is it way past spec when this occurs? what i'm gettin at is if it don't slip then do you still have to check it? it makes kinda of a whirring,whistling sound upon acceleration. not a bad sound just wondering if it was normal? other than that it still performs as it did after 2-3 hrs of hard riding. :thumbsup:

nc, i actually put that spring back on after i installed the perch adjuster. there was so little tension on the perch adjuster spring that the lever would barely stay extended.

as far as the gap is concerned, im not checking mine until i feel excessive slippage. ive never had any luck with the 3rd gear brake test. :thumbsup:

my clutch makes a whirring sound in the bottom of the gear (normal) and makes a horrible chatter when taking off from a dead stop or if im in the wrong gear. but that is caused by my gearing.

the 3rd gear thing is you cruise in 3rd at 4-5 k rpm's and while keeping the gas on steady apply the back brake and if it slows the rpm's your o.k. if the rpm's rise it's slipping and needs adjustment,is how i gather it. :thumbsup:

no... i understand the 3rd gear brake test, but my bikes transmission and the very tall gearing throws the whole thing off. its fine though, ive had the clutch for a while and know exactly what its doing at all times. its killer on the track. :thumbsup:

so is this test a good measure of where your gap stands(it works on mine) or do you still need to check it? i myself am from the school of "if it ain't broke don't fix it" :cry:

well, seeing as though the test doesnt work on my bike, i cant see it being very reliable. to many factors. but i had to take mine apart to change the gap like 10 times when i first installed it. so i will not take it apart until i feel something odd.

trust me, you'll know when its slipping too much. you will experience "auto clutch fade" from 5 minutes of riding around. the clutch cover is only supposed to be slightly hotter than the ignition cover.

i slip my clutch in every corner at the track, and my clutch doesnt fade a bit. but if the gap is too big it will fade within 10 minutes.

this test works for me.

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