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lowering DRZ400S? clamp? forks? wtf?

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again my intentions are 95% street/motard.

i noticed the stock triple will not allow much room as far as lowering the front ride heighth. is there a different approach or what? from observation I can see the forks are permantely in place on the lower end, and there is only about 1" betweed the bars and the top of the fork tubes. I will be lowering this bike for motard use and am curious as to what I will have to do.

again, thank you.

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many of us actually just raise the fork tube(to a certain extend) and thats it

unless ya really wan to lower it much more, and ya have to add spacer inside the suspension.

checkout chromecrf motard, he have actually lowered his crf very much lower. (check out in motard forum)

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I lowered the front on mine 1.25" and the rear 1.75"

Custom bar riser(raises the bars .75") and Kouba on the rear. Brake lines and cables all work fine at that length.Gel seat and you are pretty low. Handles fine.

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depends on the level your after.the real way to do it is to limit the travel internally.

im not a fan of suspenion links as they change the leverage ratio.

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im not a fan of suspenion links as they change the leverage ratio.

yeah, but if you do it with a change to the spring rate on your shock it's not that bad. i have the shortest kouba link (the one that barely lowers the bike) on my drz and i added a resprung E shock to go with it and it was a big improvement over stock. of course that's 2 changes so i can't pin point the link, but it still better, so whateva :cry:

my point is that the lowering links can be done right, or they can be done -way- wrong.

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you wont see any race bikes with lowering links.

true enough, just like you won't see many street bikes with ohlins forks :cry:

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burned

I've got the drz2 link, and slid the tubes until they hit the bars.

What's going on with the lowering links and the changed leverage ratio?

Are different things happening at different parts of the stroke?

Could you explain that a little further?

All I know is that my FMF exhaust gets repeatedly smashed

by my brake caliper, even after I shimmed the mount outwards by

about 5mm! :cry:

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This is a case of don’t make it more difficult then it is.. The links are levers,, the longer lever (Kouba link ) changes the ratio of the rear suspension. It is linier,, softer (more leverage)then the shorter stock links. The bigger issue I've found is not that it just changes the effective spring rate,, but it changes the velocity of the shock during use, this has proved to make getting it set up right more difficult,, In fact,, I'm still not happy with my RT gold valved, Kouba linked (DRZ1) suspension.. The links get swapped out for the next ride to see if it makes difference.

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I ride mostly FS Roads and trails with mine and also the street. If I didn't have to touch down at redlights and such, I'd never use the links. That said, they are OK for some kinds of riding and DEFINITELY change the rear springing. You will have to crank the heck into the preload or change spring rates depending on what works for you. It is definitely a compromise. Suzuki makes the links that length for a reason, I would assume. I am happy with mine for the kind of riding I plan on doing. Not a race bike.

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