Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

CRF250X Suspension Settings

Recommended Posts

I bought my new CRF250X (kept my WR250 after all) and had a few questions on how people have set up theirs as far as suspension. My WR250 was modified by a previous owner and I got real used to the nice handling suspension. It was the best I've ever had. I was wondering if adjustments on my CRF would give me a suspension closer to that of my WR.

I weigh about 180 with clothes and am 6'. Ride level is intermediate and I only do small jumps, don't care about wheelies and ride rocks, roots, woods, some hill climbs.

I adjusted the compression softer front and rear about 3-4 clicks and it helped but still much stiffer than I'm used to. The front is all over the place it seems and bounces off rocks so I will be adjusting the rebound harder. My ride was cut short by the huge downpour I was testing in and the need to get home for food.

I'm thinking of getting a Michelin for the rear to help on the hill climbs since I had one on my WR426 and XR400. My WR250 has a dunlop but climbs hills very well. It tracks great and keeps a good line. The CRF had a tendency to jump around in front and spin a lot in the rear doing the same hill as the WR.

I'm assuming the suspension will loosen up a bit after some more miles also so maybe just some minor adjusting will fix the way it handles.

A very nice bike though.

Any comments/suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am a little shorter and a little hearvier than you and once my suspension broke in on my X it has been great without hardly touching the clickers. Just give it a little time and the suspension will be magic. Great for where we live and ride! :cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, I thought it might get better after breaking in. It's actually a nice stock suspension. I think it's just hard to compare to modified suspension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I weigh 165lbs and am 5'8". I loosened mine two clicks (to 16 instead of stock 14) on both the front and rear and my bike rides great. I've recently ridden a friends Kawasaki and it was too soft and another buddies KTM 300 EXC which was too stiff for me, but he is way bigger. Must say the KTM 300 was a blast to ride - far more boost than the X. You can lug the thing in any gear and give a little twist on the throttle and the smile widens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I weigh 165lbs and am 5'8". I loosened mine two clicks (to 16 instead of stock 14) on both the front and rear and my bike rides great. I've recently ridden a friends Kawasaki and it was too soft and another buddies KTM 300 EXC which was too stiff for me, but he is way bigger. Must say the KTM 300 was a blast to ride - far more boost than the X. You can lug the thing in any gear and give a little twist on the throttle and the smile widens.

Hey thanks, nice to get the actual clicks. I didn't have my manual when I went riding yesterday but the dealer had it set harder than what you listed so I assume it was not set standard. I'll try your settings since your weight is close to mine. The KTM's are nice bikes but I was pushing it to get my wife to agree to a 250X since I already have a WR.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my suspension modified by Pro Race Suspension before I even broke in my 250X(Eibach springs, ultra max valves), so I have no idea what the stock suspension was like. Set sag at 3.5"in. I decided to keep the rear high to maintain the tight cornering action from the front. Good for tight single track Enduros.

My front seemed to push off too much so I made the rebound 1 click harder from stock setting on the forks. The rear felt too soft, so I went one click harder from stock setting on the rear compression. Thats it for changes.

This is the most plush, rider friendly suspension I have ever felt. I can go over slimy roots, and squre edge ruts at any angle and the suspension just eats it up. No hard jolts, no deflections, or sign that the front wants to slide off to the side. I have to say it feels so good I don't have any intention of putting a stabilizer on at this point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my suspension modified by Pro Race Suspension before I even broke in my 250X(Eibach springs, ultra max valves), so I have no idea what the stock suspension was like.

Is this the same as Pro Link Race Suspension or is it a local shop to you?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AFter break in of the suspension, I put the proper springs in for me and switched out the fluid in the front. Suspension was pretty sweet before the spring/fluid swap but they are almost to the point of not knowing there are forks up front. :cry:

I concur with the no damper requirement, this bike turns quick and is stable, no twitchiness nada zip.

I am at about 90% in the rear with the settings. High speed stuff is scary magic now its pretty sweet the way the rear end just soaks up high speed stuff, especially those deep single track whoops......I was bottoming the rear and wallowing bad before the spring swap. I went to a 5.7 from a stock 4.6 in the rear.

For my weight, I dont see a revalve necessary, but when I do, Les out at LT-Racing.com will get them if I do.

He lives here in the pac northwest, A level + rider and knows how to get suspension working in the rocks and roots we have. He has done two of my bikes already and between price, super fast turn around and remarkable results, he has my vote!

One thing I did learn. Dont suck up your forks in to the tripple clamps to change the steering. I did it once and the turning traits of the X went into the trash.....almost to the point of just bouncing off the trees.

Good luck.........with a few clicks and some time on the legs once they are settled in I think you will find the suspension pretty sweet for stock off the floor.

HR

:cry:

:cry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like I'll have no problems once it's broke in and I can tweak the settings. Looks like I need to find a nice day to do some more break-in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody, I've got a '04 250X with just over 100 miles (military and keep getting deployed). I'm 6'3 and about 220 pounds. I think this bike is rigged for a kid about 150 pounds. Do you guys think I need heavier springs/suspension? Thanks

Evil 01

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I bought my new CRF250X (kept my WR250 after all) and had a few questions on how people have set up theirs as far as suspension. My WR250 was modified by a previous owner and I got real used to the nice handling suspension. It was the best I've ever had. I was wondering if adjustments on my CRF would give me a suspension closer to that of my WR.

I weigh about 180 with clothes and am 6'. Ride level is intermediate and I only do small jumps, don't care about wheelies and ride rocks, roots, woods, some hill climbs.

I adjusted the compression softer front and rear about 3-4 clicks and it helped but still much stiffer than I'm used to. The front is all over the place it seems and bounces off rocks so I will be adjusting the rebound harder. My ride was cut short by the huge downpour I was testing in and the need to get home for food.

I'm thinking of getting a Michelin for the rear to help on the hill climbs since I had one on my WR426 and XR400. My WR250 has a dunlop but climbs hills very well. It tracks great and keeps a good line. The CRF had a tendency to jump around in front and spin a lot in the rear doing the same hill as the WR.

I'm assuming the suspension will loosen up a bit after some more miles also so maybe just some minor adjusting will fix the way it handles.

A very nice bike though.

Any comments/suggestions?

Give your bike some time to break in!!!!!

Setting the sag CORRECTLY is the single most important thing you can do on a bike. Most newer bikes, Honda in particular, are VERY sensitive to sag adjustment. One turn either way on the preload collar can transform a real poor handling bike into an incredible machine- or vice versa.....

Put your clickers back to stock, it is a good baseline. Once everything is settled in and you get your sag correct, then twist the clickers for fine tuning.

And remember: test, test, test!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anybody, I've got a '04 250X with just over 100 miles (military and keep getting deployed). I'm 6'3 and about 220 pounds. I think this bike is rigged for a kid about 150 pounds. Do you guys think I need heavier springs/suspension? Thanks

Evil 01

Yes. I woud think at your weight heavier springs would serve you well. Have you tried to set your sag properly in the rear?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anybody, I've got a '04 250X with just over 100 miles (military and keep getting deployed). I'm 6'3 and about 220 pounds. I think this bike is rigged for a kid about 150 pounds. Do you guys think I need heavier springs/suspension? Thanks

Evil 01

I have an 06 CRF250X and am the same size as you. You do need to change the springs. Racetech has a nifty little spring rate calculator on their site. You put in your weight, type of bike and type of riding.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just had my forks revalved and re sprung . Can any one tell me the best position for the clickers to begin testing.

I had no idea where the clickers were set before they went for modification.

Appreciate some ones advice here so that I have got a good base line to begin with.

Thanks

( Resprung for woods , enduro riding )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

robotplant your tuner should have given you a set up sheet if not call them and ask what you should start with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And if they can't help you, set them in the middle and go ride. Only adjust one thing at a time and ride again in the same area (So you aren't adding too amny variables into the mix.) then adjust again. Repeat. You will learn what the knobs do and be able to set for conditions.

There is no correct setting of your adjusters. I find I change mine from riding area to riding area. I change them when it's dry and when it's wet. You can get them to a good compromise and quit whirling them or you can continue to adjust and learn.

This gets really appearant on a track or set loop where you can time yourself around it after each change.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×