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Tried Mobil 1 MX4T 10-40

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I was using mobil 1 redcap in my 520sx and I thought I would try the new mobil 1 10-40 motorcycle oil. All I can say is wow I have tried a lot of oils and this one is by far the best. I have never had a gearbox shift so smoothly and my engine runs a little cooler and quieter. I think Its worth a try. Just my .02 cents. :cry:http://www.mobil1.com/motorcycle/index.jsp

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Whatever... :cry:

I've tried all the oils from 99 cents Walmart to AMSOIL.

Can't feel a thing.....

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Because I have used cheap and expensive oil, and I don't see any differences. Nowadays, I use middle of the road oil in Shell Rotella Synthetic at $11/gallon at Walmart.

There is no way on earth I'm going to use mobil 1 if I'm going to change the oil every three rides. That's way to costly.

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Because I have used cheap and expensive oil, and I don't see any differences. Nowadays, I use middle of the road oil in Shell Rotella Synthetic at $11/gallon at Walmart.

There is no way on earth I'm going to use mobil 1 if I'm going to change the oil every three rides. That's way to costly.

Replacement parts are way too costly.

A couple years ago that was ok but late last year Rotella went to the SL rating with has more friction modifiers in it. I was told by several folks in the motorcycle industry not to use any SL rated automotive oil in a wet clutch motorcycle. But you can keep using the cheap stuff and let us know how long your clutch lasts or any other problems. Or would you admit it if you did have problems ? Do you race ?

Cher'o,

Dwight

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Dwight, that's pure crap."Only use motorcycle specific oils"

Myself and lot of guys use automotive oil in 2 stroke and 4stroke gearboxes and 4 strokes that use the same oil(KTM)to lubricate the engine and trans. How many problems have we had? Zero. As a 50X "Enduro Champ" you should know better.

As long as the oil isn't marked as energy conserving, it will have no ill effects on the clutch pack. And i'm hard on my 125's clutch i assure you.

Someone did an oil analysis and Castrol GTX rated higher than Honda GN4. Castrol GTX 10-40, 15-40, 20-50, Shell Rotella 15-40 and 5-40 syn. are excellent oils for bikes. All these oils are inexpensive and readily available at k-mart, even on saturday night or sunday morning.

Clean oil is more important than the brand used. As far as saving money by using a bike oil, how? Less repairs? I think not. I recently took apart a cr125 trans. that had a ton of time on it. Guess what? The entire trans was clean, the 4 trans. bearings were spotless and showed no play. The oil used in this bike was Pennzoil 10-40, like $1.29 a quart.

Go ahead and buy $10 qt. synthetic bike oil and change it regularly and you know what in a year you could of bought a new bike.

Rudder, please go to the Honda crf 450 forum and do some research on bike oil. Lots of real world info there not,"you heard". Therapture seems too be the authority on oil there. I think he's an engineer for a car company or something. : :cry:

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Dwight, that's pure crap."Only use motorcycle specific oils"

Myself and lot of guys use automotive oil in 2 stroke and 4stroke gearboxes and 4 strokes that use the same oil(KTM)to lubricate the engine and trans. How many problems have we had? Zero. As a 50X "Enduro Champ" you should know better.

As long as the oil isn't marked as energy conserving, it will have no ill effects on the clutch pack. And i'm hard on my 125's clutch i assure you.

Someone did an oil analysis and Castrol GTX rated higher than Honda GN4. Castrol GTX 10-40, 15-40, 20-50, Shell Rotella 15-40 and 5-40 syn. are excellent oils for bikes. All these oils are inexpensive and readily available at k-mart, even on saturday night or sunday morning.

Clean oil is more important than the brand used. As far as saving money by using a bike oil, how? Less repairs? I think not. I recently took apart a cr125 trans. that had a ton of time on it. Guess what? The entire trans was clean, the 4 trans. bearings were spotless and showed no play. The oil used in this bike was Pennzoil 10-40, like $1.29 a quart.

Go ahead and buy $10 qt. synthetic bike oil and change it regularly and you know what in a year you could of bought a new bike.

Rudder, please go to the Honda crf 450 forum and do some research on bike oil. Lots of real world info there not,"you heard". Therapture seems too be the authority on oil there. I think he's an engineer for a car company or something. : :cry:

Just because you have gotten away with using Crap for oil doesn't mean you should nor that you are not doing damage.

I would't put Castrol GTX in my lawn mower. I have seen too many 4 stroke dirt bikes destroyed using this stuff that they claim is for higher reving engines ( auto engines that rev to 5000 rpm. )

Believe who you want. It isn't my bike. Some one here just might want to know what is right. Not someone who is too hardheaded to listen to the voice of experiance. I just don't recommend telling anyone something that could damage their expensive engine. They might just come looking for you. The basis of this thread is someone who went to a Synthetic Motorcycle oil and was very happy he did. So you think someone else that you don't know is a better expert than I am ??? Just because he says what you want to hear doesn't mean he is right. Now does it. I have worked with oil engineers for many years and can get most any information I need to make an intellegent decision. There are serious differences in oils meant for Motorcycle use verses automotive use. AND even more in racing oils for extreme usage race bikes .

IMHO,

Dwight

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Yeah and not to mention that every jet engine that I have ever worked on, read about, heard off on this planet uses synthetic oil in their gear box and they go for 6000hrs or more between overhauls. Put out FAR more horsepower than a dirtbike and some have turbines that turn 35k rpm on the same basic bearing that is in your motorcycle. All oils are not created equal man. The oil is oil bull is fine if you want lube your mail box door. Mobil 1 and other of the good synthetic oils are designed so that all the molecules in the oil are the same size. What does this translate to you? Better lubrication and less power loss due to less friction. Anyway I am not a chemist I have just see a lot of engines and gearboxes torn apart and you can tell what good synthetic oil can do and what crap oil can do as well. Thats just my 2 cents.

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i was using silkolene pro 4 on my 525 with no problems but my dealer said he is also stocking motorex fully synth from now on for allktms because thats what ktm recommends (in the uk). Thats good enough info for me and iwill use that on my new 05 model regardless of the cost, which is probably only the same as a new set of tyres to give you peace of mind for a years riding/racing.

Cheers Nick

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Yeah and not to mention that every jet engine that I have ever worked on, read about, heard off on this planet uses synthetic oil in their gear box and they go for 6000hrs or more between overhauls.

That's a place where I wouldn't question syn. As was said in this post, syns big advantage is that you can use extended drain intervals as it does not break down as quickly. But we're not doing that in the RFS's so that benefit of a fully syn vs a non-syn oil is not realized. Another is better heat resistance but, again, with the short change intervals (unless you're regularly overheating the bike), this is also of very negligible benefit, IMO.

Bottom line is that lots of folks own RFS's and they run everthing from cheap automotive oils to the most expensive fully syn motorcycle specific oils. The change intervals range from every ride to a 1000 miles and more. I find it's rare to ever hear or read about an oil related failure. I think it's hard to make a case either way. Use what you're comfortable with and change it fairly often is my advice.

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Yeah and not to mention that every jet engine that I have ever worked on, read about, heard off on this planet uses synthetic oil in their gear box and they go for 6000hrs or more between overhauls.

That's a place where I wouldn't question syn. As was said in this post, syns big advantage is that you can use extended drain intervals as it does not break down as quickly. But we're not doing that in the RFS's so that benefit of a fully syn vs a non-syn oil is not realized. Another is better heat resistance but, again, with the short change intervals (unless you're regularly overheating the bike), this is also of very negligible benefit, IMO.

Bottom line is that lots of folks own RFS's and they run everthing from cheap automotive oils to the most expensive fully syn motorcycle specific oils. The change intervals range from every ride to a 1000 miles and more. I find it's rare to ever hear or read about an oil related failure. I think it's hard to make a case either way. Use what you're comfortable with and change it fairly often is my advice.

Thanks Jeb & well said

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