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I waited until (Im gussing 700 miles) to tear the sterring stem apart and grease it and am paying the price.

I have it all apart, but its siezed (almost) and crunching. I cannot figure out how to get the stem out. Should it, under normal conditions) be easy to get apart?

Im stuck! How do I get this assembly apart?

No riding tomorrow, and a new bearing, at least on the bottom.

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My bike was only 9 mos. old and I had to use a 2x4 and a hammer. :cry:

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OK,, so the front wheel is off, fork tubes are out, Top nut, and triple clamp is off. Lock nut is off... and the steering stem will not come out (down)???? at that point the stem would have to be stuck to the upper bearing inner race. A small whack with a soft dead blow hammer should do the trick

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Mine came out no problem and was greased well from the factory from what I've read mine is the only bike to come prepped 1/2 way decent. My friend was totally seized in place and like bronco said a dead blow and a couple of smacks and it came loose, his bearings were all rusty and dry. I run my gas overflow outside the steering stem cause I think gas washes the grease out.

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It should just slide out the bottom, thats what I though. I am hosed...

This thing is solid. A large rubber mallet and 2x4 with solid blows produces a sold feel and not a budge. Its locked up tight. I squirted some wd40 around the top race where it meets the stem and tried to get the bottom.

Am I just going to have keep trying to lube it and hit it harder?

This sucks bad!

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Im stuck! How do I get this assembly apart?

I just went thru this last week.I just bought a '00 and I'm sure the stem had never been out of the head tube. I used a block of wood on top of the stem and beat the creap out of it with a 3 lb hammer. Didn't move. Soaked it with penetrating oil over nite. Beat on it again. Nothing.

I went by my son's 4x4 shop and explained my prob.He gave my a bottle of acid that detail shops use on very corroded aluminum wheels.

I poured a small amount where the stem comes out of the top bearing, waited about 30 seconds and tapped the stem and it fell out in my hand. You have to flush the part with water to rinse offr the acid. You might try a local detail shop and see if they would give you a small amount.

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I went through the same thing a couple of months ago. I had to use a torch and heat it. Be carefull what you beat on. The steering stem shaft can get screwed up fast with a hammer.

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Ill see what I can come up with. Thanks for the tip.

If its the bottom that is really hanging things up (the bottom bearing is the one that crunches) and I cant get anything on it, how in the world is it ever going to come apart?

I am so pissed AT MYSELF for not greasing it when new as advertised!!!! I did everything else and its all fine. I just didnt take that extra time to do the steering stem thinking it would be OK...WRONG MOVE!

I feel like I have cripled my best friend (dont mean to offend anyone who has actually crippled their best friend, that really must suck...).

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Im with Rockchucker here. Where other people have had issues with lack of grease my bike hasn't had a single disassembly issue and everything has been greased properly enough to get apart easily.

Swingarm bolt, Axle Bolts, Steering stem bearings. Everything has been fine...

I did have the dealer do the first 600 mile checkup and I believe they went through everything as far as joints for some lube so that may be why? :cry: They also used lithium grease on my chain though :cry: ... When I got home I had that $hit on my pants, swingarm, plastics, subframe freaking mess. Bastards. :cry: :cry: :cry:

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I got it apart finally. Thanks to a 3ft long 2x4 one some firm smacks.

The bottom bearing as I suspected is totaly shot. Completely bound up with rust. There seemed to be plenty of grease everywhere down threre too, apparently in the wrong spots.

The bottom race looks like it is pretty bad too. I can feel some pretty good bumps in it and it has blask rust spots in it. They are pressed in? A dealer only, 2 week wait part no doubt...that sounds like fun...

Cant get the bottom bearing off the stem either, this looks like another fun one. I am leaving it sit overnight with lube on it.

Dealer wants $43 for a new bearing. Does that include the seal as well? He said it was a standard size, can I get one somewhere else cheaper?

I feel better now that it is at least appart and I can the damage. I was planning taking pictures and showing the steps to tear it down and the result of neglect, but I left the camera at the office.

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Boy the memory is gone, I started that post and didnt remeber...

Pivot Works has both bearings and seals for $59. That seems like a pretty good deal to me. I guess I have to play the wait for the UPS guy game next week.

How would I know for sure if I should think about replacing the races in the frame?

Thanks for the help!

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The new set should come with new outer races.

Use something to tap out the old ones from the opposite side of the head tube with a hammer. :cry:

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The bottom race looks like it is pretty bad too. I can feel some pretty good bumps in it and it has blask rust spots in it. They are pressed in? A dealer only, 2 week wait part no doubt...that sounds like fun...

I was able to get bearings at my local dealer.. On the shelf no less, and at the same price as Ronayers :cry:

Cant get the bottom bearing off the stem either, this looks like another fun one. I am leaving it sit overnight with lube on it.

The bottom bearing is pressed on,, you have three choices to replace it.....err... ok four.

1: Take to a shop and let them do it.

2: cut the old bearing off, not hard,, but you must be cautious and not nick the steering stem.

3: press the stem out, the bearing of course comes off, then press the new bearing and stem back in.... you'll need a press for this function of course.

4: If I was so inclined,, when I did mine last month.... I "think" I could have removed the bearing with a throat plate after cutting off the bearing cage. As I had the cut off wheel already out and hooked up.. I just finished the job on the lower race. But I'm sure I could have done it the other way.

No matter how you get that bearing off,, you will need a press to install the new one,, so if you do not have a shop press,, take it to a shop for bearing replacement.

The bearing races can be knocked out with a brass drift, or race punch and installed best with 17167.JPG an installer like this. Mine is a snap on set, but cheaper options are available from sears or auto tool outlets.

Dealer wants $43 for a new bearing. Does that include the seal as well? He said it was a standard size, can I get one somewhere else cheaper?

another dealer for sure, Ronayers, or as suggested ,an aftermarket kit Like this from the TT store

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It will be coming apart every 3 months weather I think it needs it or not from now on...

I found a bearing (the top one looks fine). Paid $40 for it at Malcolm Smith and as usual dropped like $60 bucks on other I didnt know I needed...

I got the new lower race installed (with a big socket) and gave up getting the bearing off the stem. It was able to get like 1/4" up the shaft but there was too much rust and its stuck. I didnt realize it was pressed on...

Have to take it in tomorrow to get the new bearing installed on the stem.

It looks like some water got in the stem and the seal wouldnt let it our so the bearing was just swimming in water. Can water get through the small rivets on the frame into the stem?

Im sure Ill have more problems once I start reassbly...thanks for the help!

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