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Do 20mm clamps help 03 cornering????


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Thanks for the info guys. I ended up getting the scotts upper and lower clamp with the steering dampner and CR highs, 20mm. Hope this helps it track a little better. I'm sure it will hearing your input. I was wondering what does the 20mm do? Does it rake the forks forward??? How does it improve the handeling? Thanks for the info.

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Goin' out on a limb here......How much have you ridden your 03? I've had mine for two years now.....and I bought 22mm clamps 'cause I couldn't nail a rut to save my life. I figured it couldn't possibly be me. Turns out.....it was.....and also that the suspension wasn't set up properly. I finally had the forks serviced correctly (got bamboozled by some douchebag shop operator in MS) by a suspension tech and when he opened them up....they still had the original fork oil in them. After he did that.....he had me ride a practice moto and come back and set my sag. After that....I corner just fine now.....can't jump worth a crap....but I can corner.

Moral of the story......make sure your suspension is tuned properly when you install your clamps. Just putting the clamps on helped me keep the bike from pushing.....but tuning the beast made me corner better.....and now I don't worry about pushing or washing out. (Only tipping over in deep ruts when someone in front of me stalls out and "I've got nowhere else to go")

When you put the new clamps on.....tune 'er up. You'll be even happier.

I'm standing corrected......I've been educated. ?

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Sorry but as I understand it, the change of offset from 24mm to 22mm or 20mm does not change the fork rake or angle. It mearly pulls the forks either 2 or 4mm back to the stearing stem. This changes the trail. The trail is the distance between the point of contact of the tire to the ground from a the point of contact an imaginary straight line following the stearing stem contacts the ground. Moving the wheel back has two effects. 1.) more weight is put on the front wheel. 2. the longer distance tends to create more stability because the friction of the ground to the wheel is further behind the stearing stem pivot line. The resulting force is what causes your wheel to return to pointing straight forward in your car. That's why it tends to reduce head shake on a bike and make it feel more planted. The trade off is a little more input is needed when steering and too much can make turning tightly difficult. Look at the front wheels of a top fuel dragster. They almost flop over on the horizontal plane instead of turning in the verticle plane. That's done because stability is premium in a dragster not turning.

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PM me and I'll let you know. It's a tight community and I like all the guys I rode with....but I am a little upset at forking out good dollars for what appears to be worked never performed. There's also more to the story. After he said he serviced the bike...the fork seals started leaking. I took it back and he charged me to replace them. Said I wasn't bleeding them enough and that they must have gotten dirty. I asked for the old seals.....and now that I think about it...they looked like they weren't replaced. I think all he did was overservice the fluid amount. I wouldn't bring it back there again. I would however bring it to Shay Racca cycleworks. He worked the local tracks for Race Tech. I just never got around to letting him do the work.

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Hey, thanks for all the great info guys. To answer your question I did just have my forks and shock re sprung and revalved. That with the new trip clamps and scotts dampner should work out pretty well. I still have not been able to try it out because of these damn hurricanes. They canceled our first three hare scrambles because of it and now we have Jeene coming at us and I think they will 86 the race for Sunday. What a drag.

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