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New Spring install questions

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I finally hhave a new set of Eibach springs in my garage. I need to install the fork springs and shoch. I have a few questions...:

1. Is the shock spring replaceable without special tools?

2. I couldnt afford to have the valving redone so I just bought the springs. Is there anything I can do myself to help bottoming or make the forks better myself? I figured I will replace the oil (5wt, 100mm from top).

Any help greatly appreciated!

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You should be able to replace the shock spring with ordinary shop tools.

The correct spring and some compression damping should minimize bottoming unless you compete in events with very different speeds and terrain. You can ease bottoming with more fluid in the forks and cranking up the compression. There are some pre-load spacers that need to be positioned correctly in some forks or you can damage the inner workings.

Heavier fork oil tends to make the forks less responsive but will stop bottoming. I haven't heard of many people going to a heavier fluid.

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Should I go less than 100mm from the top for oil level?

It's a DRZ 400 '03. Will those spacers just fall out or something when I pull the springs out?

Thanks! Ill be getting my hands dirty with this tonight...

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Have you checked in the owners manual? My XR400 owners manual (not shop manual) gives the acceptable range of fluid heights for my forks :cry:

I was looking for feedback from guys that know. If I add more oil it helps bottoming? Ill check the manual for minimum height.

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I didn't mean to come off sounding like a butt-head, but I didn't know that my manual had fork oil height range info until recently. Yes, as I understand it, increasing the fork oil height will make the "air spring" stiffer and will increase bottoming resistance for the forks.

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:cry: I just did the exact replacement.

Shock is a simple swap......no special tools needed.

Fork is alittle more complicated: :lol:

Note, the metal spacers that come with the springs will "click" when compressed. That's normal and nothing to worry about. :cry: But I'm a perfectionist and that was way too annoying! :cry: Note, the spacers go below the springs...... :cry:

I followed Race Tech's recommendation with the 15mm of preload. WAY TOO STIFF! I'm 260 lbs and put the 48kg springs in. :cry:

Tried it again with a few modifications.....Cutting the spacers out of 1" PVC pipe to exact OEM specifications, no preload, softened up the action and eliminated the click! :lol: I used 5wt. Bel Ray fork oil to OEM specs as well.

Now I'm testing it on Sunday at Elkins Flat!

How about the "Homemade" gold valves. Drilling the holes out?! Anyone try that? :lol: I can't see spending another $169.

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I got no metal spacers with the springs... :cry:

I cant figure out how to get the spring off the shock now. The manual simply sates "Remove the circlip, spring seat and spring. Boy that sounds simple.

How in the World does the spring seat come off? It looks like a single aluminum piece.

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Gregg,

If you don,t have a spring compressor, simply loosen the locking ring and back off the preload ring all the way up the body, close to the last set of threads.

Put your shock in a vise up side down. use some sort of of protection so you don't mark the body.

Take a rubber mallet and tap around the outer part of the spring seat. ( that is actually a ring, Clevis side)this should access the retaining clip that you are looking for. Sometimes they can be a pain. Hope this helps

Russ

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:cry: It's better than I could have ever expected!

Plush in the small bumps.....doesn't dive in the corners. No longer bottoms on the big jumps. :cry: Very stable in the turns, and soaks up the rocks like it's nothing! :cry:

I'm in Love with my XR all over again! :cry:

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Got the shock spring on, fresh grease on the whole back end and everything is torqed down. The back is done..finally.

I was going to start in on the forks and noticed the service manual says I need a special tool to change the springs. Do I really need the tool or what can I use to get it apart. The tool is a square flat thing with Im guessing a wrench end on it to hold the top of the spring retainer thing while you loosen the bolt. I dont want to tear one apart and be stuck with an oily mess I cant get back together...

The springs combined with replacing the rusty, nasty stem bearings should make for a new(ish) bike feel. Thanks for the help getting the back end done, I cant wait to ride it!

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Just use a thin flat wrench and install between the coils to loosen. Make sure to get the cap back all the way on the cartridge rod and bring the locknut to it.

doc

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