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CRF 250 X Valve Issues- One Persons Opinion-Advice

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So the good news:

Since going to Pro Circuit and spending $600 on a nearly new $6000 Motorcycle, which did not include any outside labor to tear it down and put it back together.....

The Valve issue looks like it is fixed.

My take on Pro Circuit?

An outstanding Company to deal with!

My thanks to Tom Wells for advising me to go with them!

In order to solve the Valve problem, you will need better quality Titanium Valves and stiffer Valve springs.

Pro Circuit has them in stock.

Part of the problem is Valve Float, so Stainless Valves are not the answer, they will only magnify the problem.

My take on Honda Motorcycles?

I feel that in the rush to be the first on the market with an Emissions Legal (and non-emissions Legal) 4 Stroke, they made some reliability sacrifices.

I cannot even imagine the fallout and almost certain bad publicity they are going to get on this issue.

Jen was WAY, WAY ahead of the curve on this since she got one of the first Bikes and put so many Miles on it so quick.

There are going to be a lot of disappointed "Red Riders" in the near future!

As a side note: You may want to avoid "No Toil" Filter Oil as this MAY contribute to the problem by letting very fine Dust through the Air Filter. This is only the opinion of one person that I spoke with (An Exhaust Manufacturer and NOT Pro Circuit), but it is also Honda's weak excuse for the premature Valve Wear issues on this Bike.

Also Note: Honda only recommends or endorses their own brand of Filter Oil, coincidentally, it's No Toil in a different Package!

Just my .02

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About 20 Miles play riding and a 32 Mile Desert Scramble, and she got 2nd !

I did not say it was fixed, I said "it looks like it is fixed".....stay tuned for further results.

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Can you break down the $600 cost? The KW spring package is supposed to be $230 plus $35 per valve. Why so much for the Pro Circuit setup? Thanks.

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The Valves themselves were $165 EACH! The Spring Kit was about $145 and the labor to freshen up the Seats and install it all was $110.

I do not believe that Stainless Valves are the answer. Part of the problem is Valve Float and Stainless Valves are only going to make that worse.

I realize that the parts seem outrageously expensive, but since it is the only option at this time, I went with what will work and with a Company that will back it up if it does not work.

If my Wife was not chasing a top ten District 37 number, I would have taken it to the Dealer to see about getting it covered on the extended warranty. Unfortunately, we do not have the time to wait for it to be resolved that way.

Good Luck!

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Part of the problem is Valve Float and Stainless Valves are only going to make that worse.

Wouldn't the valve float be controlled by the springs?

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Yep, Rich has said this many times, the stainless valves are heavier, but with corresponding springs you will not notice a lick of difference in power. Dyno runs of both KW valve kits and OEM valves have shown no difference in power even in the high RPM's.

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I was told my valve problems was from over revving so after replacing both intakes (only the right failed) CRF250X. I did not over rev the bike the second time probably kept in under 10,000 rpm. (just a guess) The right intake went south after only 500 miles. Not sure that valve float was my problem but could be.

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The issue is not "Power".

I am quite sure you can make the same power with Stainless or Titanium Valves. The difference will be that a Stainless Valve will require a stiffer Spring than a corresponding Titanium Valve due to the increased weight of the Valve itself. The job of the valvespring is to close the Valve, but also to keep it in contact with the Camshaft. If the Valve Springs are too weak, the Valve will not stay in contact with the Camshaft as the Cam turns to the "down ramp" when the Valve closes. The Valve will slam down on the Seat and then bounce or oscillate until it smacks the Cam right before it gets opened again. One of the recommendations that came in the instructions with the Pro Circuit Valves was to run them at .005 Intake and .006 Exhaust Clearance. The theory is that with less clearance there is less chance of the Valve leaving or losing contact with the Camshaft. Additionally, if Titanium Valves need stiffer than stock Springs, how heavy of a spring will the Stainless valves need? What are the frictional losses with running the stiffer springs and what will that kind of Spring pressure do to the Cam over time?

Not to get "off topic" but my Wifes Stone Stock CRF250X would walk away from my KX125 on the top end. My KX 125 GPS's at 67 MPH (Dry Lake) and I rarely am looking for more speed during a race except for those LONG LONG Valleys in Lucerne. Will a Modded-Jetted-Piped CRF250X pull 5th strong? Anybody know what the REAL top speed is?

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One of the recommendations that came in the instructions with the Pro Circuit Valves was to run them at .005 Intake and .006 Exhaust Clearance.

I am considering the PC Valves ... .005 is standard for intake and .011 for exhaust. So PC suggests tightening the exhaust valve clearance, making it closer to the intake clearance. Interesting. Probably of no consequence since the exhaust valves do not seem to fail ... AND ... for me, I was going to leave my stock exhaust valves and springs in (maybe I should re-think the springs).

Did you go PC for both intake and exhaust?

Thanks :cry:

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Yes, get the complete Spring Kit for both Intake and Exhaust side. Ti Valves for the Intake, the stock Exhaust Valves are fine usually. You will be amazed at how bad the Valves look (grooved from the Seat)upon removal.

Good Luck!

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Wow..

A company like pro-circuit has to make good stuff - and IF they don't they would definatly back it up - they have too good of a reputation to lose. You HAVE to let us know how they hold up because before I buy a crf I want a solution waiting just incase I do have valve problems. If they work I guess its true you get what you pay for.

Thanks for the advice, I'd love it if you could keep us up to date.

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Funny my CRF250R valves are A-ok and with plenty of miles on the engine too. If there is a valve isssue with ones engine it is due to lack of maintenance period..... Keep the AIR FILTER clean ! And by the way I use No-Toil.

There has been NO valve issues on CRF's in our area at all.

KLX :cry:

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Funny my CRF250R valves are A-ok and with plenty of miles on the engine too. If there is a valve isssue with ones engine it is due to lack of maintenance period..... Keep the AIR FILTER clean ! And by the way I use No-Toil.

There has been NO valve issues on CRF's in our area at all.

KLX :cry:

I dont think its due to maitnance at all. I run Honda GN4M in the motor side and Hondas red bottle in the tranny side. Change the oil every 150 trail miles or every race. I also change the oil fiter every time. I have 3 filters that get rotated and cleaned every ride and when its dusty run filters skins also. I also check my clearances every 4 hours. I have the bike jetted right and run good gas in it. With all of this maitnance my rt intake still went to zero..... so in regards to you blaming the valves on poor maitnance try a different theory. Oh yeah, I also ride woods alot and I think have only ever hit the rev limiter once in the bikes life and that was when I was jumping....

Even with the valve problem I love the bike and wouldnt sell it for the world. I reshimmed my intake and am awaiting the SS valves.

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Hello all. It's been a few races (quite a few) but the Pro Circuit mods have COMPLETELY solved any Valve problem. I am 100% happy with the results as is my Wife (who rides the "250 X" in question) who is in the hunt for a TOP TEN NUMBER this Year. She races the AMA District 37 Desert Series as a Novice Woman and is currently 11th and on the move up. I believe that the 250 X is a solid Bike AFTER the Valves and Springs are changed out. You can Theorize all you want about "Micro Dust" and Choke tubes that "Suck Dust" but the only thing that "Sucks" are the stock Valves!

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I beleive hondas valve problem is there coating process .I have gotten replacement valves that have a entirerly different apeirence in the color of the coating .also it looks to be somthing like aluminum nitrate , which would be soft compared to casidium like procircut uses and i think probally yamaha also uses .casidium is exspensive to have applyed and raises the cost of the valve this would also explain why a yamaha valve cost more than the hondas .i have been testing a vapor deposition coating like these, only it has a higher operating temp so i have been able to run it on the ex valves also in my race engines .so far the results have been good.

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Still going strong.......................

The Pro Circuit Valves and Valvesprings are working great. Probably close to 500 Miles since the work was done and the Valve clearances have not changed !

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Still going strong.......................

The Pro Circuit Valves and Valvesprings are working great. Probably close to 500 Miles since the work was done and the Valve clearances have not changed !

This was $600 total? Did you do the installation yourself?

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