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Tricks to prime the oil pump?

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Well... my bike is all put back together with the stainless valves and conicle springs and I CANT WAIT to ride Saturday. However, there's still one thing I need to do...

When I tore it down, I split the cases to have those silly oil screens cleaned. So, now I'm starting with a completely dry system. I'm wondering if anyone has a good trick to prime the oil pump on the RMZ, so I don't have to run it for a couple minutes with no oil pressure?

Anyone have any thoughts? :cry:

~Tex

RMZ w/STAINLESS BABY!!

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not sure about priming, but how much gunk did u have in the filters and how many hours?

Actually, could u just unplug the spark plug wire and kick it over 20-30 times?

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I would remove the spark plug and either kick it over or roll it off down a hill. Removing the plug would make either easier and take all load off the bearings.

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If you put lithium grease or someother assembly lube on the cam buckets and cam journals, light coat of oil on the cyl walls, there will be no issues fire it up and let her idle,It will be allright.

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I don't think I'd kick it over 20-30 times unless you turn your gas off and drain the fuel bowl on the carb. Other wise when you want to start it it will take forever to clear it out first. I think the oil pumps are already submerged, and I think there is 2 pumps. If it's already submerged it is already primed, or it will prime when you first kick it. If you put oil or assy. lube on everything before you put it back together, just start it up. Keep your hand on the kill switch and if you get funny noise shut it down right away, wait a minute and try it again.

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Did you (or the company you sent it to) put assembly lube on all the moving parts? if so then you're set, otherwise i would pull out the spark plug, shut off the fuel, and drain the carb and then kick it over 20-30 times as was mentioned. Good luck with those new valves! :cry:

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Kicking it over without oil will do damage just as it would if it was running....pour oil over the valve buckets and cams, fill the trans and fire it up.....it should take a second or less for oil pressure to build.

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Also texlabo, how dirty were the oil screens...I have my motor out and ready to split, but dont want to do it if it isnt completely necessary...let me know.

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they are pretty darn obvious. about 2 inches long, bigger around than a pencil, but not much more. dead center in the middle both width and length of the cases.

getting them back in is a trick. each one has 2 fingers that holds it in place. the screen likes to stick itself INTO a finger and not let you get the cases together. look closely before you force it.

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Thanks for the input guys!

I'm so excited about trying these valves... I'm like the french when Lindburg landed....

I'll keep you guys posted!

~Tex

RMZ-Heavy Metal

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We're just as excited as you Tex, hopefully this is the light at the end of the tunnel. Aaron, I'm not sure I completely agree with you. While your concern for the parts wearing is understandable, you won't cause any damage by not having oil at such low speeds. Not to mention, the biggest reason the parts wear is because of the forces on them, if you're just kicking it over slowly there isn't much force there. This of course would be a completely different story if Tex was trying to kick it over 20 times in 5 seconds or if he was trying to fire it up without any oil in the pump. Your way won't harm anything but it's an extra step. I'm willing to bet that there is assembly lube in there if the engine was sent out so Tex is covered anyway.

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I decided I had enough assembly lube all over when I put it back together, so I just started it and let it idle for a few minutes. There was a definate difference in sound once the oil kicked in, I'll tell ya that!

All is well, and I get to ride old "Steel" tomorrow.

I'll pass the word on tomorrow night!

~Tex

RMZ Steel

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