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Anyone had gearbox problems ?

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Hi,

One of my friend had his gear box freezes on him.

He has the 1st gear and neutral but then nothing else.

Engine runs.

Anyone had any similar issues ?

He opned the clutch side, everything seems ok.

Thanks

Christian

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Its a little plastic gear behind the clutch housing that is either stripped of teeth or itb bolt has backed out.

That don't sound good! ut oh maybe you should have used silkolene instead of that off brand oil! :cry:

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The plastic gear behind the clutch is the oil pump idler gear,, don’t see any way it could effect the transmission :cry:

Though I also do not have an opinion as to what you will find wrong, and causing your issue,, Burned might though.

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The teeth on that plastic gear sheared off on mine and all I had was 1st and nuetral as I am not a mechanic but that is what happened to me so I thought it could be a possibility :cry: I could be wrong. :cry:

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(((The teeth on that plastic gear sheared off on mine and all I had was 1st and nuetral ))

If it's that big tan plastic gear, I wouldn't think that would enterfere with shift unless your sheared teetch got into the mechanism. I kept hearing about the gear breaking and recently saw someone post a pic , thats a big gear, I was thinking it was much smaller and more fragile. Still I wonder what it is that makes it want to strip it's teeth on some bikes?

Or where the stress on that gear comes into play, or what scenarios would pressure it. I was thinking severe cold starts with heavy oil might, but your running the redline synthetic so that should have good flow at cold temps.

It's just kind a weird

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(((The teeth on that plastic gear sheared off on mine and all I had was 1st and nuetral ))

If it's that big tan plastic gear, I wouldn't think that would enterfere with shift unless your sheared teetch got into the mechanism. I kept hearing about the gear breaking and recently saw someone post a pic , thats a big gear, I was thinking it was much smaller and more fragile. Still I wonder what it is that makes it want to strip it's teeth on some bikes?

Or where the stress on that gear comes into play, or what scenarios would pressure it. I was thinking severe cold starts with heavy oil might, but your running the redline synthetic so that should have good flow at cold temps.

It's just kind a weird

I think they go because whoever puts the bike together doesn't use locktite or torque it properly, and I would not have thought that's that gear would have anything to do with it but the bike was under warranty so suzuki fixed it and that's what they wrote down as the problem :cry: but that doesn't mean anything as the dealer here is .....well lets just say not good! They have been known to be wrong that's for sure. I do know they didn't split the cases and after they replaced the gear it worked smooth as butter.

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The teeth on that plastic gear sheared off on mine and all I had was 1st and nuetral as I am not a mechanic but that is what happened to me so I thought it could be a possibility :cry: I could be wrong. :cry:

Ya but you might be right :cry: Where did you find the plastic parts? What did you find was causing the problem?

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I am not sure exactly how it happened.

I am posting for a friend that is not so much into internet.

and just trying to help him.

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try to find out some real details.

trans issues are rare,but do happen.most seem to have issues after the counter shaft nut is found loose and retightened.

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try to find out some real details.

trans issues are rare,but do happen.most seem to have issues after the counter shaft nut is found loose and retightened.

Is that because they try and tighten it in gear???? :cry:

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try to find out some real details.

trans issues are rare,but do happen.most seem to have issues after the counter shaft nut is found loose and retightened.

Is that because they try and tighten it in gear???? :cry:

No it is because they do not use thread locking compound on the splines and threads... and the nut comes loose. Then once it does,, and you re tighten it,, often the internal bushing as been damaged and the transmission binds.

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This may sound stupid, but did you check the shift lever? They have a tendency to rattle loose, making selecting a gear all but impossible. Check it for peace of mind.

If I am off base or you have already checked, please disregard. :cry:

Mike

:cry:

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This is amazing, just yesterday when I was inquiring about the nut size (30mm was the answer) it was because I noticed the nut wasn't even finger tight. The retaining tab of the lock washer was holding the nut on.

I have never had the nut off so figured the factory screwed up. I torqued it to the specififed 79 lbs-ft and did a 30 mile fairly hard ride this afternoon on single & two track.

The trans seemed to shift ok. It maybe seemed a bit "clunky" when downshifting or at least seemed a bit noisier on the downshifts. It did shift up and down thru the gears successfully throughout the ride. The odd thing is that neutral seemed real easy to find versus before it was a bit tricky at a dead stop. Any transmission symptoms I should look out for as I see this loose countersprocket nut thing may be fairly common?

Thank you,

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Roscoe,, :cry::lol: :lol: :cry::lol: I should have told ya bout the tip the other day.. :cry: :cry:

Yes it seems to be a common fault. The OEM Tq spec is fine,, just clean the splines, and use a few drops of red loctite brand (or similar) thread locking compound on the splines (3 or 4 drops) and a drop on the threads. Tighten, fold over the locking tab and give it over night. Then ride :cry:

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Bronco78 - Thanks for the quick response. No problem, I should have mentioned why I was looking for the socket size, especially at my surprise to find it loose. Heck, on my old GSX-R600 and my SV's I had to use an impact driver to get the nut off while doing 520# chain conversions.

I'll re-do with the red loctite. Roscoe

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