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Bet you never had to do this!

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So I'm installing the DJ kit in my "S" and like everyone else removing the screws on the float bowl, I strip out the heads on half if them.

I was able to grab the head on one with a pair of pliers and break it free, but the other one a lost cause, even after slotting it for a flathead screwdriver.

I considered grinding the head off completely, removing the bowl and then grabbing the remaining threads with pliers until I considered how screwed I'd be if I broke that off with the screw still stuck in the threads.

I finally just welded a piece of steel rod to the head of the screw and twisted it off that way, being careful not to weld to the bowl or start a fire in the carb.

Unconventional, but it worked.

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:cry: I'll have to learn to weld... One never knows what the DIY holds... "strange procedures" need sometimes to be applied!!!

:cry: :cry:

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sorry but that's friggin funny dude :cry: :cry: I think I would've had a stroke having to go through all that.....this picture is priceless :cry:

did you get the replacement screws with the allen key heads?

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if you can smack the end of the screwdriver with a hammer and turn it at the same time they will break free. i did it just a few weeks ago. i then pitched the screws and went and bought allens. or get a impact screw driver with a small enough bit. but if the heads are rounded off it looks like a dremel tool to grind the heads off! :cry:

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A pair of vise grips clamped to your phillips srew driver close to the head of the screw, helps you get a better initial turn on the screws as the leverage is increased farther from the center of the screw.Keep in mind that a screwdriver produces less torque because it is acting right above the screw.

If you do strip the head, then a needle nose vise grip attached right to the screw head ( really tight the first time you grip it) also helps to loosen them up. :cry:

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I considered ALL of those suggestions before breaking out the mig, having previously read the posts on the subject before beginning the project. As a matter of fact I used several of the suggestions to remove 2 of the 4 screws, but that last one.........brings new meaning to the phrase "Miller time". You can imagine me sitting there in the garage, realizing I’m totally screwed and out of options, looking around for the solution to my problem when, there in the corner, I spy the welder. I figured, besides a raging inferno, things couldn’t get any worse anyway.

And yes, I have the allen head screws in there now, thanks Jessie.

As for melting any parts or o-rings, I was aware of that possibility so I used only 2-3 VERY shorts bursts to get the job done, could touch the screw bare handed immediately after.

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You did a nice job containing the weld pool thats for sure ! I have been down that road many times in the past and found my welders to be the kings of the show! As for frustration! Before I did my carb I thoght you guys were all just sissys! Then after I dislocted my wrist and popped a blood vessel in my eye I realized that I had become the girl trying to get four little screws out! :cry:

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Holy crap, dude! Take it easy...we don't want to be reading about you on the Darwin Awards website! :cry:

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Oh come on guys, I a Federally Licensed High Explosives user. I blow things up for movies and television. Out of ALL of you, I'd be the last one to blow myself up! Tank Explosion.jpg

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So I'm installing the DJ kit in my "S" and like everyone else removing the screws on the float bowl, I strip out the heads on half if them.

I was able to grab the head on one with a pair of pliers and break it free, but the other one a lost cause, even after slotting it for a flathead screwdriver.

I considered grinding the head off completely, removing the bowl and then grabbing the remaining threads with pliers until I considered how screwed I'd be if I broke that off with the screw still stuck in the threads.

I finally just welded a piece of steel rod to the head of the screw and twisted it off that way, being careful not to weld to the bowl or start a fire in the carb.

Unconventional, but it worked.

That's how I did mineo n my LTZ400

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Is this something I should do on my new bike? Maybe I should remove these screws, coat the threads in copper grease and refit before they seize?

Or are they seized straight from the factory? :cry:

Ian

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There is nothing wrong with the carb screws, a properly fitting screw driver, and or an impact driver will not handle.. I've taken ,,well not as many as Burned I'm sure,, but I've taken a few hundred float bowel screws out, and never had a problem, unless a previous user messed them up. Tight fitting bit in the impact driver, small whack and the screw is loose. After that, a properly fitting driver and no problems at all.

The are a small head fastener, there are installed tight from the factory, and you will ruin the head of that fastener every time with a cheap or worn out or incorrectly sized driver.

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